dogvet Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 My Academy car has done 5 track days and 2000 road miles and the rear pad wear is much greater than the front pad wear, why is this? the wear on the back is down to about 4mm thickness. Can someone send me some details as to the actual proceedure involved in replacing the rear pads please, do I need to remove the brake pipes to achieve this? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted September 10, 2002 Share Posted September 10, 2002 just a guess.... The rear pads have much less material to start with and heat dissapation is much poorer from the rears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevSull Too Posted September 10, 2002 Share Posted September 10, 2002 Are they the same make pads? Has someone put softer material in the rears to alter the brake balance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe 90 Posted September 10, 2002 Share Posted September 10, 2002 I don't know what the correct proceedure is, but I unbolted the calipers and ❗ gently ❗ eased them clear of the disks. I hate bleeding brakes because I hate geting fluid everywhere 99,000 miles so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted September 10, 2002 Share Posted September 10, 2002 Rear pipes can stay on. Have some string handy. You'll need a wind back tool for the piston (although a pair of long nosed pliers may suffice. 1.Jack car up, hand brake off and rear wheels removed. 2. two bolts go from behind the ears into the calipers. These come off. There is a spacer for each bolt. These have a habit of falling away into never to be found again places as the bolts come out! 3. Wiggle the caliper off the disc and use the string to tie it to the coils to hold it in place. 4. remove the thin metal cover on the top of the caliper and throw it away 5. remove pads 6. use pliers or bespoke tool (available from Halfords) and wind piston back (clockwise I think). If using the proper tool don't wind it back too hard. You'll struggle to get it out again. 7. new pads in - Some pads need a file taken the metal bit to them to get them. My EBC red stuff benefit from a bit of filing or they're a pain to get into the caliper. 8. reverse of above back to step 2 - can be fiddly and snug getting it back on the caliper. A bit of gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet helps (I personally wouldn't bother putting the thin metal plate back in. 9. bleed brakes 10. pump them back up with the nipples tightened and check fluid levels Alex Alex Wong www.alexwong.net www.slipstream-trackdays.co.uk The Caterham Links Page _________ / __ __ / ___ _//__T/__/_ ___ / (_) (_)/ /`-'/o/ _______ /o/`-'/ / /// ( VDU7X ) // / /___/--_________/--/___/ Edited by - Alex Wong on 10 Sep 2002 17:30:42 Edited by - Alex Wong on 11 Sep 2002 00:55:43 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted September 10, 2002 Share Posted September 10, 2002 The rear brakes hardly get any airflow and have very bad temperature related problems with hard track use. A pad material like Green Stuff or Mintex 1144 is very vulnerable in the rear calipers and crumbles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bey Posted September 10, 2002 Share Posted September 10, 2002 I've had problems with rear pad wear since I have had the car, for over 4 years. I've actually been through several sets of discs, as well as pads. Generally, it manifests itself on the way home from track days where I notice the rear brakes binding & making a noticeable noise. The pads wear right down to the metal, which is melted and blued!! I thought I had fixed it by fitting AP 4-pots, but it has very recently happened again. I reckon it's something to do with the self-adjusting handbrake doing something wrong. I have now adjusted the handbrake so it is permanently off & doesn't work, but shouldn't cause the brakes to bind. Another suggestion I have had is to use softer pads, like EBC Greenstuff, so that the pads can wear down over time without destroying the discs. I spoke to Redline about it only yesterday, & they say it is a problem that is not unknown with the rear brakes, & they suggested the Greenstuff solution. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogvet Posted September 11, 2002 Author Share Posted September 11, 2002 thanks to all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgrigsby Posted September 11, 2002 Share Posted September 11, 2002 dogvet out of interest what tyres are you running? Avon ZV1/Michelin's or something stickier such as 021r's? this can make quite a difference to brake pad wear as well.... Rob G www.SpeedySeven.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogvet Posted September 12, 2002 Author Share Posted September 12, 2002 Academy tyres on road, Ao32rs on track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgrigsby Posted September 12, 2002 Share Posted September 12, 2002 Ahh ok I used 032r's on the track and found that the rears did overheat quite a bit. To the extent that the pad fell apart completely. As people are saying greenstuff are an easy first choice. I went to redstuff when I started using ACB10's..... Cheers Rob G www.SpeedySeven.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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