How to remove inboard CV joint from half-shaft

[charlie_pank]

Hi, I'm working on a 2001 De-dion roadsport.

 

I've got the half-shaft off, and I need to remove the inboard CV joint. I've removed the gaiter and can see a large plastic cup with radial grooves in it. I can't see any circlips to free up the shaft. Can someone tell me how to separate the CV joint from the shaft, as I'm perfectly willing to do it, just have no idea where to start!

 

Thanks

 

 

 

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[Billyboy]

Easier to remove the outer CV joint and change the boot from that end there is a circlip in the other end - the inner from recollection is brute force removal past a spring loaded clip at the end of the shaft - that most always gets damaged in the process.....Remove outer CV boot and look for circlip in the groove on the shaft maybe a squeeze in type or an expand out type for removal - all from memory easy enough - and change both boots and repack with grease on both ends

 

ALL from memory of many a ford / Audi shaft strip

[charlie_pank]

Thanks, but I have to get the inner CV joint off, it's not for changing the boots! Do I 'just' need to keep whacking it with a lump hammer?

 

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[luddites7]

I think the newer ones (i.e. only ones supplied by caterham now) are actually pressed on obviously cheaper at point of manufacture but not for subsequent maintence.

 

I had this issue when replacing gaiter boots for last MOT had to get a local machine shop to press them on and off.

[charlie_pank]

That would certainly fit with my experience today. Guess I'll take them down to the local motor factors.

 

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[charlie_pank]

If it is one of the pressed in ones, is it still going to have the circlip on the end? I need to take them apart because I'm fitting an LSD that accepts bolt-on half-shafts. I have the set of half shafts that go with the diff and am hoping to just swap over the inboard CV joints so that I can re-use the original half shafts that came with the car.

 

The bolt-on CV joints definitely have a circlip on the end - which is easily accessible, unlike the circlip inside the push-in spline!

 

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[MADMALC]

Have you removed the 'tin can'?

When this is removed the inner shaft separates from the longer drive shaft bit. There is a spring in there but not under much load plus the plastic thrust washer/spacer. You should then have a three point spyder with a needle roller bearing on each spider firmly attached to the long drive shaft bit. I removed these bearings and stored carefully. The needle rollers are a bu55er to keep, but count them prior to removal so you know you have them all.

On my car, a 1998, the spider had to be driven off the shaft. Much heat and energy in the shape of a cold chissle and a lump hammer. Take care not to damage the 3 bearing surfaces. Any buring on the shaft or splines can be fettled. There were no circlips visible or hidden. The Haynes manual says circlips but I had none. Purely an interference fit.

Please note that you should try and note where the spder is fitted as it should be put back on the same splines. If you lose the position you will have to expose the opposite spider and alligne the opposit one at 60 deg to the other. ie they are offset equally.

Try and keep the rubber gaiter clips intact in case you need them. The replacements I got with the Ford gaiter kit were too narrow for the Caterham drive shafts.

The black grease is a nightmare. No matter how hard you try to contain it you will be unsuccessful. It will appear anywhere within a 300 mile radius of the work area, you have been warned. Get plenty of newspaper and cleaning cloths at the ready.

This is the worst job I have undertaken in my 60 years but the degree of satisfaction when you get it back to gether in some way compensates.

I have a feeling if I do have any further problems in the drive shaft area that I will stump up for a complete new driveshaft and sod the expense. And I am a seriously tight a----d Yorkshireman.

You have been warned.

 

S7MAD

[MADMALC]

I see from you post when I was typing that you only want to split them so just cut the tin can off. An angle grinder or large hacksaw and some pealing will do the job.

You will then need a new can which come in the gaiter repair kit which is a Ford part. Sorry not at home to get the number but James Whiting supplied mine.

Enjoy.

 

S7MAD

[charlie_pank]

How is the tin-can fitted to the shaft end? Obviously I can angle grind it off, but if I did want to save it, what would I do?

 

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[MADMALC]

When you fit it you put the narrow end over the drive shaft and then push the inner drive shaft up to the spring. You then have to hold it there and tap the outer edge of the tin can over the inner drive shaft. Sorry not a good description.

The tin can is bent over at the wide end and this is all that stops the two parts from coming apart. If you look carefully you will see how it is bent over.

If you need more info please feel free to give me a ring on 07904516651.

I am not at home so cannot send you a picture of the Haynes manual, sorry.

 

S7MAD

[charlie_pank]

I think that makes sense, thanks. Going to take it to a machine shop to separate the buggers. What a horrible design!

 

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[MADMALC]

Remember you do not need any force to separate the drive shaft from either of the ends, it is just held by turning over the ends of the tin cans. When the tin can is new it is straight at the wide end.

 

S7MAD

[metal mickey]

Just replaced the gaiters on my car. The tin can is crimped onto the joint and this can be opened up using a cold chisel/hammer. Hold the can in a vice and slowly work your way around the circumference of the crimp opening it up slighly as you go. Make several runs around the can and you will find the joint opens without splitting the tin can. There was no circlip in either joint ( I removed the outer of both halfshalfs to replace the boots). I used a three legged puller to draw the bearing spider off the shaft being careful not to damage the bearings. Remove the gaiter clips and draw the tin can and outer bearing assembly off the shaft. Place new boot on shaft and reassemble. I used a drop of locktite on the splines when I pressed the spider back on but in use the joint cannot slip off the shaft. Hold the can again in the vice and gently tap the crimp back in place.

[Guy Lowe]

Ford part No: 1058427, includes:

1 x Can

1 x Boot

1 x Small boot clip

1 x Large boot Clip

1 x 70g Sachet of CV grease

 

About £12/£14 + vat

 

Guy

Now with ZETEC power HERE

[charlie_pank]

If it doesn't work out for me, is it possible to get diffs converted from bolt-on to push-in?

 

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[mav]

Lots of useful stuff potentially here

[charlie_pank]

Thanks Mav, this is the info for the NEW LSD and bolt-on drive shafts - these ones look easy as the circlip is clearly visible.

 

It's with the ORIGINAL push-into-the-diff half-shafts where I'm having the problem removing the inboard CV joint. Does anyone have a schematic of them - what's it from anyway?

 

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Edited by - charlie_pank on 25 Oct 2010 13:55:40

[charlie_pank]

As an alternative, can I just remove the bolt-on flanges from the new diff so that the push-in ones will fit it instead?

 

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[MADMALC]

Charlie you have mail.

 

S7MAD

[MADMALC]

You have a little more mail! 😬

 

S7MAD