virden Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 I'm planning on touching up all the peeling powercoating and stone chippings with the above. In previous years I have used Hammerite Smooth. Can I simply paint over this with POR 15 or do I have to rub down/apply a primer? 1700 Super Sprint, Team Lotus and clams Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 POR 15 chassis paint is best applied either directly to rusty steel or bare uncorroded steel If the latter, use the POR system - POR Marine clean degrease/POR metal ready/POR 15 chassis paint. Any traces of old hammerite or powdercoating makes a poor base for POR15. Make sure if you strip the old hammerite/powder coat all traces of paint stripper are throughly removed with the marine clean as it reacts with the POR 15 system. Guess how I know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virden Posted September 24, 2010 Author Share Posted September 24, 2010 So are you saying in the case of rust,just remove the flacky bits, an dthat it is OK to paint over rusty pit holes?. Whats marine wash? Will white spirit do instead? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Marine clean is POR15 cleaning solution, this cleans and degreases, then there is an etch primer and then apply POR15 paint products and info here Tim CSR 200 Aztec and Black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkyMarc Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Virden, I did my chassis over the winter - exactly the same scenario; I had used Hammerite a couple of years ago but it eventually flaked badly. This is the sequence I went through: 1. Removed the Hammerite with a wire brush attachment on a drill. This also removed any flaking rust, but not back to bare metal 2. Applied POR Metal Ready. It comes with a spray nozzle but this was hopeless; I quickly switched to brushing it on. It treats any remaining rust and makes the surface ready for the next step. 3. Applied POR 15. It has a gloss finish so for the exposed components I was treating (such as the top link on the front suspension) I then applied Hammerite Satin finish on top to give it a 'factory' look. So far, the results have been great - I check the treated areas regularly and it looks as good as it did on day 1. The key thing is don't rush it - the prize is getting it right! Marc Yellow flares and a X-flow - who said the 70's are over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 POR15 also requires that it is used in dry warm conditions to give the best finish. Use NEW brushes, buy small tins. It absorbs water, and a can left open for a couple of hours has a noticable degredation in surface finsih over a new can. It will not key to poweder coat or hammerite very well, even if you rough up the surface. It will stick to bare metal (assuming you follow the directions to use Marine Clean and Metal Ready) like sh1t to a blanket. If at all possible strip the powder coat off. One point about Metal Ready is that you should leave it on for an aggregated 20 mins, but recoat every 3-4 mins. This is the best way to get the phosphate build on the bare metal. Full Terms and Conditions of this post can be read here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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