McBreadhead Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 I have a low oil pressure problem which has plagued the engine since rebuild and I am pretty sure is due to the wrong sump pan being fitted. It came from a younger xflow (now spare) with different oil collector which accordingly also has the wrong sump. So I plan to swap them over but wondering how much work is involved? I have an engine hoist and from memory my bellhousing splash plate is 1 piece not 2 as has been discussed here before. Will it be easier to split engine and gearbox or take whole engine and gearbox assembly out? Also can I check oil pressure with a portable mechanical guage as car is std electronic Caterham fare which I know can be suspect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Rich Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Hi On my series 3 seven with a standard 1600 cross flow I could remove the sump pan from the engine in situ. Bolts at the back were a bit difficult so had to remove the small cover at the bottom of the bell housing. Did have a pit so that made it easy but on ramps i think you should get it off OK. best of luck Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Umm better check if you have the 1 piece or 2 piece as it makes a big difference, If the plate is in the original full section 1 piece then I don't think there is any option but take the engine out 😔 however check first it might have been split previously or it could be like mine and be missing the bottom plate totally. If it is a one piece, read up on where to split it and split it while the engine is out. Take care on sealing the sump when you refit, if it's not right it will leak.......... Q469 WET, 1990 1690 Xflow Long Cockpit in Ali except for the red bits. But hopefully a Class 2 150 ish BHP Zetec in 2011. With a Dual Drive :-)CaterBram on Facebook Edited by - CaterBram Jnr on 19 Sep 2010 20:51:26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allen Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Check also the clearance between the oil pickup and the bottom of the sump - I had acrossflow that wouldn't produce any oil pressure and turned out to be a no clearance issue. Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted September 20, 2010 Share Posted September 20, 2010 Very true Allen, could be a slightly shallow oil pan and a bit of gentle 😳 persuision needed to the oil pickup pipe. Q469 WET, 1990 1690 Xflow Long Cockpit in Ali except for the red bits. But hopefully a Class 2 150 ish BHP Zetec in 2011. With a Dual Drive :-)CaterBram on Facebook Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McBreadhead Posted September 20, 2010 Author Share Posted September 20, 2010 that is exactly the issue. The old sump was a tad deeper which is why I want to reinstall it and keep the oil collector unmolested. Unfortunately there is no magic to get at the problem other than to remove the sump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted September 20, 2010 Share Posted September 20, 2010 Do not over tighten the bolts when you re-install it and do opposite corners to keep the sump pan from distoring, this will stop the leaks. Greas the faces of the gasket to keep it in place and stop any leaks... worked for me. If you do need to split the box from the Engine you don't have to take the engine out, just pull it forward enough to get the plate off backwards. Whilst off, you might as well cut it to save you time next time 😬 Jonathan ========================= My Flickr Gallery 92 Supersprint, Ford LSD LA, RK AX Crossflow. Stealth model (Matt Black and Ali), rebuild completed. Edited by - jonboylaw on 20 Sep 2010 12:49:40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NevDyson Posted September 20, 2010 Share Posted September 20, 2010 You can remove the sump if you have a single piece spacer, it is not easy but you can get enough seperation by usnig blocks and then get adremmel or a hack saw blade in. I done it on the road side, lots of cursing, but managed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McBreadhead Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 Once the sump is off and I replace with original how can I check the clearance with the collector plate is correct when in final position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 Measure the distance from the block to the lowest point of the collector using a ruler , measure the depth of the sump again use a ruler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McBreadhead Posted September 23, 2010 Author Share Posted September 23, 2010 That is pure simplicity! 😶🌫️ What should the clearance be then? Apparently in days of old they used to weld brass nuts on the bottom of the collector to get the optimum stand off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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