Help with starting problem please!

[John E]

I have an inertia starter and whilst I agree that any initial firing causes it to disengage I never have a problem in getting the thing to catch. I dont think that having the throttle wide open after the initial priming is a good idea. If it aint going to fire it will just flood hence the need for a good spark and the first item to check here is the dizzy providing the spark but even if this is happening with the plugs out of the engine it is not a true reflection of conditions under load and so a set of new plugs will confirm or otherwise. Has this problem always existed Ade? If not then dont worry about the jets, they are a fixed item and whilst they can be changed it should be done in combination with a good look at the carbs preferably on a RR.

Dont change everything at once. Try the new plugs, then the cap then the rotor or in any order that suits, then you will know where the fault it.

Best of luck

 

run baby run

[stevefoster]

Interesting..

The idle jet screw setting is by ear.

Screw one of them in say 1/4 a turn at a time until you hear the revs drop (wait a good 15secs on each turn for the rpm to settle). When the revs drop, back them out again 1/4 by 1/4 until you get the fastest rpm. Then go one 1/4 turn more out i.e richer. Then repeat for the other 3 idle screws. You may have to back the idle off a bit as the revs can rise quite a bit during this process.

The above will affect the balance if wildly out and you should always re-check the balance.

You can also test the tune of the idles under progression by holding the revs at steps around 900-1700 rpm and seeing how cleanly she runs. This is the critical progression zone that you notice so much if not right when driving. You can then tweak the idles a little say 1/8 turn at a time (do it for all 4 idle jets at once) and then listen to see if you can get it cleaner (this last bit may not be necessary if the jetting is spot on)...

This is how I do it at anyrate.

Then the final test is driving at the engine is now under load and behaves a little differently to free running.

 

I would say that the idle jets would not cause the problem you have as long as they are not screwed right in (it wouldn't run nicely like that anyway which you have not indicated).

 

/Steve

 

My racing pics, 7 DIY, race prep. Updated often here

Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site

here

 

[John E]

My mistake. I thought that you were referring to the jets themselves as opposed to the idle adjustment. Must read more carefully.

[stevefoster]

It's tricky reading and then trying to help... A shame Ade is not nearer and I could have a go at it... I like this kind a problem.

 

/Steve

 

My racing pics, 7 DIY, race prep. Updated often here

Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site

here

 

[John E]

ditto

 

Run Baby Run

[Ade Ray]

Hi guys

 

Yet more useful info. I am going to try the plugs first. The replacement dizzy cap and rotor I have on order but are a couple of days away. The thought of playing around with the idle jet screw adjuster (thingy) sounds interesting. Are they easily identifiable once I take the top caps off?

 

Ade

 

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[John E]

If you give me a call on the same number I'll talk you through the Roger King method (same as above but its written down) 🙆🏻

 

Run Baby Run

[Ade Ray]

Thanks John, it might be Saturday now before I get a chance to play. Did have time to change the plugs and although there was some improvement she still isn't right and I ambegining to feel that the carbs are to blame in some shape or fashion.

 

Speak to you later

 

Many thanks

 

Ade

 

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