jackb_ms Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 Hello Is there a special trick to remove the flywheel bolts or a special tool? I just cannot move them. Thanks for your help Jack Emily, The Very Yellow 21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 You'll find they've been done up FT with thread lock so you need to un FT them Simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 Top tip.. use a 1/2 AF six point impact socket (a 13mm is too loose on the die formed heads) and a long breaker bar. The socket may need tapping onto the head of the bolt a little. On no account try to use a 12 point socket. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jingars Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 My Rover manual states; "Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking the ring gear teeth (illustration of a sexy looking fabricated tool) or by bolting a strap between the flywheel and the cylinder block/crankcase. Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining bolts and discard them The bolts must be renewed whenever they are disturbed." It gives a torque figure of 85 Nm / 63 lb-ft, (or FT!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpa Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 I use a big breaker bar with 22mm (I think) socket on the front flywheel bolt to stop the crank turning. Then use a big torque wrench to undo the flywheel bolts. You may need someone sitting on the engine to stop it moving about.. Cheers - Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 Rover flywheel locking tool and 1/2 AF six point and a helper to hold the engine still makes the task easy. Ive done the 12 point socket and oily is correct.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jingars Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 So is my PDF of the Haynes manual scaremongering about the requirement to always replace the bolts? It gives no further info other than "The bolts must be renewed whenever they are disturbed." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 Fecking big screwdriver in the ring gear and 6point Skt works every time for me same screwdriver same place locks F/Wheel for front pulley bolt removal. Never mind all these fancy tools 😬 Only special K tools I have is Torx socket for head through bolt and 3 digital gauges for timing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 The reason they are replaced is because they are patchlocked to prevent oil coming down the threads onto your clutch. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 3 digital gauges for timing Why so many? Save yourself some dosh as 2 will do and it's easier if the TDC one is analogue rather than digital..... 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 When you've used 3 digital gauges as many times as I have to time Ks Then I'll take your advice. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 Save yourself some dosh as 2 will do and it's easier if the TDC one is analogue rather than digitalWell, I have to say I agree, especially if you do the job infrequently. That's exactly how I timed my cams on my SS-R. If you make a living timing cams, follow Oily's website advice and go for two digital for the cams and one analogue for TDC. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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