Jump to content
Click here to contact our helpful office staff ×

X430 - my SC'd 2.3 Duratec in a CSR chassis


Se7en

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Quoting dannylt: 
Thanks for the detail - you're making me feel much better about selling my Rotrex after sitting on my desk for a year! *thumbup*

 

They make great paperweights don't they? Which one do youo have? The unit itself (particularly the C30) is such a nice compact piece of engineering, it looks like it would be easy to fit. Just like an alternator really! The monster C38-81 I used was a real challenge and not for the faint hearted!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a C30-94, and I agree it's a beautiful piece of engineering! I have an S3, so the installation would have been difficult, either bottom left jammed next to the scavenge pump, or top right and relocating the alternator. There were even thoughts of putting it further back and driving via a shaft, but routing the intercooler hoses would have been a bugger. Quite a few people I spoke to weren't so enamoured with the throttle response (mainly on the K20A conversion) and 300+ bhp is plenty with 6" ACB10's so I decided to stick with what I had for a few years! Great to see your properly done project though - the development is always fun.

 

The guy I sold it too had it sitting on his desk for a year or so before selling it on too *smile*.

 

Danny

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quoting dannylt: 
Quite a few people I spoke to weren't so enamoured with the throttle response (mainly on the K20A conversion)

*smile*.

Danny

 

That is why I went with the individual TB's and all the hassle that caused - this should make response as good as it can be. Of vourse, it will never be as good as a NA engine on individual throttles....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Blimey - it's been a while since an update. It took a while to find me thread.....

 

The car has finally run in anger after a few outings with fuel pressure problems and a few other niggles. I am really glad I fitted a fuel pressure sensor and set the Race Technology dash to a warning at 10 psi drop. *biggrin*

 

We had designed a foam filled ally tank with an internal sump that gravity fed the Bosch 044 fuel pump, then in line filter to -8 hose to the fuel rail. After changing pretty much everything to solve this, including re-wiring with a relay, it turns out that it was not losing pressure under demand conditions but under cornering G. It had to be the tank itself. *cry*

 

Options were to add a low pressure pump feeding a swirl pot, then feeding the high pressure pump etc............or change the tank. On the Bank holiday weekend madness (was there a wedding on?), I managed to source an FIA approved bag tank from the Caterham Levante, complete with internal sump, pump, filter etc. I sent someone to collect it and I delivered it and the car to Jeff Wilson at HWR. As the tank was designed to fit an SV car, I thought it would go straight into a CSR chassis but NO! The rear strut tops were in the way so AAS had to cut and re-weld various chassis tubes to get the tank in on the Saturday. Jeff finished the car off on Sunday when I picked it up ready for Croft on Monday! BIG thanks to Jeff and AAS.

 

I was over the moon when the car ran without fuel issues at Croft so I could finally push it a bit. The car feels better than I imagined it could. The chassis set up and slicks are working well, steering is excellent, brakes really good (until a slight soft pedal later in the day). I had almost forgotten about the diff ratio change we had done as it seemed to be just right. The torque is impressive with no need to rev it at all.

 

Apart from the soft brake pedal, the only issues I had were a battery light and a sticky throttle that caused the cable to slip. The nose cone ducts (that took me weeks to make) don't seem to be getting enough air to the intercooler so the power was way down and I took it easy. The only major work is a new nose cone set up that will feed air to the IC. If that doesn't work, I will make a new water rad / Intercooler set up like the Levante.

 

We are nearly sorted............ 😬

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No real pic updates but I have added a couple to here

 

There is one showing the Levante intercooler for reference. I will add some more to show my intended route but it will be something like the red Omex Supercharged Westy (sorry about the Westy bit).

 

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like 😬

 

However, I am kind of (and I'm sorry) glad that your intercooler doesn't cool enough, as the ducts just don't suit what is otherwise a sexy sexy beast!

 

Fortunately you have options open to you, the RS solution is extremely neat but how much air actually reaches the radiator? And the Westie has put all that extra weight over the nose - it's not a lot but it all adds up, and that can't help turn in *wink*

 

Have you thought about a DEI water/CO2 spray bar on the intercooler? Cheaper than a new nose cone *wink*

 

P.S. Are you going to go for a front wing? 😬

 

Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 10 May 2011 22:39:04

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I actually quite like the nose ducts but I guess it is just a matter of taste. I was more than happy if they were functional. I do agree the clean stock look is very nice indeed.

 

The RS solution is very common on forced induction vehicles, whether OEM or aftermarket. I fitted a massive (and expensive) front mount to an Audi RS4 a few years ago and it worked superbly on inlet temps but it did affect the water rad. I will just have to spec up the water rad if need be.

 

Not sure if the Westy has changed rad position but it has added an intercooler and ducting to the front end. The CSR rad is way out in front and angled forwards so I may get better weight distribution by changing my set up to mount further back. However, the anti-roll bar is preventing me going as far back as I would like.

 

A spray bar would feel like treating the symptom to me - I would rather get a good air to air intercooler working. The nose cone is not that expensive.

 

Not sure about front wing until I use it more. Initial thoughts are of low speed understeer but I need to push it on the high speed corners to see. I do have a carbon flat floor that extends out under the nose which I may try before a proper wing as per the Levante.

 

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought about various add on flaps (!) and scoops but I just thought they would look.........well.........add on really. I already have a new nose cone and have cut my rad fittings about to move it back. Just need to have them re-welded on, mount it and make a guide up and over the rad to the current intercooler.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

*thumbup* Look forward to seeing mark 2! I am extremely jealous, of course *wink*

 

Have you thought about having just one big duct across the nose cone? Might be worth a try? You'd probably catch animals and small children in it, but it could work?

 

I think the Westy has the IC on top of and behind the rad - there's a reasonable amount of space above the rad I think, but all that extra ali... I'm sure you could do a CF version!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have seen a Dax turbo with one big duct accross the front. I think my current ducts could be modified to that style of opening and I think it could work. I think it might look pretty awful though. The X330 had a small inlet on top of the nose as well. The nose looks very busy as they seem to have had water rad, oil coolers and intercooler all in the nose. The blue car has something similar to mine but not sure how well it worked. Pics here

 

I may try a Westy type ally duct and think about carbon fibre later. I have been trying my hand at this on another project......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Just got back from an interesting day at Croft. Weather held up pretty well until about 3pm when the rain came down.

 

The good news is that my intercooler duct mods worked superbly! I used the Westy route, using a new nose cone, of ducting dedicated air up over the water rad and through the intercooler. The water rad had to be angled backwards to allow this which is not ideal but I just wanted to prove the theory. Now I can have a new shorter, thicker water rad made.

 

The car feels much faster than the last run out - in another league in fact. We adjusted the shocks to a lot stiffer, especially on the rear and it feels really good. Jeff Wilson thinks the car would benefit from a rear anti-roll bar but I don't know if this has been tried on a CSR? What did the race cars use?

 

The only "incident" today was when a friend tried it out. Under braking from 6th gear into Tower, we locked up, missed rear ending another Caterham by mm, missed the tyre barrier by cm and hit some crops in the field by a few metres!!!! No damage done other than dented pride........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The car is back up at Jeff's for paint and a couple of other mods. I will get some pictures when I get a chance.

 

I was losing faith in the intercooler but I knew it worked on the dyno so stuck with it. The ducting is the same principle as the red Westy done by Omex although ours is no where near as pretty as that at the moment. We just wanted to prove it out.

 

I am also going to add a stat in the water system as I am bored with taping up parts of the radiator. However, the plastic Ford one is pretty fragile looking and smaller diameter outlet than we are using. There are some nice in line stats using newer technology that we are looking into. If I make a new water rad that can sit vertically, I can add back the fans as well as they wont fit in now I have moved the rad back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the rear anti roll bar, i had Freestyle adapt one of their ajustable type which i fitted to the rear of my 260 CSR. I thought it made the car more stable but this was just road driving so no definitive proof just seat of the pants *smokin*

 

It did involve me manufacturing brackets to attach the drop links to the rear uprights, drop me an email and i can send you some photos.

 

Regards

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...