Duratec R400 Dry Sumped - How to check oil level?

[spiderlane]

The Handbook says

 

"Keep the engine running, open the dry sump tank cap and look inside, you will find two baffle levels with centre holes. In normal condition the oil should run approximately 5mm below the middle baffle level. Top up the oil if required"

 

However, when I'm running the engine, there is oil flowing back into the top of the DS tank (from the oil cooler) and you cannot see the actual level. So how do I check that I have the correct oil level?

 

All info gratefully received.

Cheers

Mark

 

ETA : Spelling

 

Edited by - spiderlane on 15 Jul 2010 09:45:25

[skydragon]

I don't have a Duratec, but a dry sumped K-series. however I'm sure it's the same principle.

 

Start and run the car for a few minutes (preferably until warm). Stop the engine and then imediately check the oil level in the dry sump tank. the oil tankl won't drain significantly in the time it takes to check the oil (or at least doesn't on a K-series car)

[Tangerine Dream]

I also find it difficult on mine. I can sort of see there is plenty of oil below the gushing amount, and there is none on my garage floor, so I call the level OK. Pretty unscientific though ...

 

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R400SV in orange - so far unmodified!

[tbird]

I have a CSR so may not be same but presume its similar as also dry sump Duratec,

I have a catch tank to catch oil from breather, guess you have also. So is the catch tank empty or with just a small amount in, if so stick a piece of tape to catch tank and mark oil level, add between 250ml to 500ml of oil go for a quick drive to bring up to temp, make sure you have a reasonably "spirited" few minutes, check catch tank, if no oil blown into catch tank add another 250ml to sump , another quick drive and repeat until some oil blows into catch tank. at this point I left the car for 24 hours then using long dipstick checked oil level in sump and notched the dipstick to give oil level for my car, if normal driving bung in 250ml or so every 500miles, check catch tank levels every so often, normaly when car has been standing for a day or so you can check oil in sump to get an idea of oil level, pretty quickly you will get a feel for how your driving style uses oil, obviously track days will use more oil so check after every session. empty oil from catch tank occasionaly.

HTH

 

Tim

 

CSR 200 Aztec and Black

[mic]

Check it when the oil is at operating temperature, immediately after turning the engine off.

[spiderlane]

Thanks guys. So it seems that the oil being at operating temperature is the important thing rather than the engine actually being running.

[MartinP]

I have an R500 Duratec and have exactly the same handbook wording as you. I also found it very confusing and asked Caterham to explain because I was at a loss to understand which was the 'middle baffle' of two. Assuming the R400D is the same dry sump arrangement as mine then this may help.

 

Firstly, to confirm, it should be checked with the oil warm and the engine running. If you look down into the dry sump tank you'll see a healthy flow of oil running in at the top. For correct level you should just be able to see the first baffle through the oil that is flowing down through the large hole. In other words the baffle plate should be slightly covered. This baffle is about midway down the tank I suppose but I don't know if there is another one further down.

 

Much higher than this and you can expect to reject oil into the catch tank if you take the car on track on slicks. If your driving style is less energetic you'll probably get away with a higher level. If you look at the oil flow coming into the top of the tank and imagine what centrifugal force would do to that flow and how close the catch tank breather connection is it all becomes easier to understand. If you eject oil be prepared for your passenger and a lot of that side of the car to be liberally covered with the oil mist that comes out of the catch tank breather even when it isn't full, makes a lovely mess . As has already been said, trial and error with your driving style will determine how high you can run the level.

[paul jacobs]

With regard to the 'oil mist' coming from the catch tank, which can make a real mess of things, I have another pipe exiting my catch tank, to take this mist away. It actually runs to just under the car, but if it isn't considered safe to exit it under the car, the pipe can be run right to the back so that any residue mist is just blown out of the back in the slipstream. The other option is to fit one of those neat little KN filters to trap any oil and let fumes through

 

Paul J.

 

 

Edited by - Paul Jacobs on 15 Jul 2010 22:56:03

[u01rsb]

It might be worth if buying a new sump tank to have an oil level gauge on the side of the tank (small clear tube with inlet at bottom of tank and outlet at the top of the tank). Does that sound sensible

[Tangerine Dream]

Martin, that is very useful

 

To confirm, this is my R400 D tank - same as the R500?

 

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R400SV in orange - so far unmodified!

[spiderlane]

Thanks guys, very handy info esp. the advice from Caterham. I too was confused by which was the middle baffle.

[paul jacobs]

Jonathen [TD], looking at your engine, it's just crying out for a set of Throttle Bodies I fancy [first major upgrade].

 

I notice you have a black heat shield over your Catalyst, you don't want to swap it for a polished alloy one do you, to match the silencer? Email me if interested, and come and have a look. 😬

 

Paul J.

 

[Tangerine Dream]

Paul,

 

I am trying desperately to keep it standard for at least a year 😬

 

I got a decat pipe with the car but wanted to do the first track day with the cat to get a noise measurement with it on (about 98db). Since then been too lazy to change ...

 

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R400SV in orange - so far unmodified!

[MartinP]

Hi TD,

 

Yep, that looks very similar to mine.

[mic]

R500 tanks and dry sumps are identical. Radiator and hoses are different. It's much easier to check the level with the engine stopped. Cold oil will be about an inch lower in the tank.

[Mick Day]

Dry-sump systems need oil levels checked with the engine running or within 30 seconds of switching off.

 

Having been around others who checked cold systems & seen the subsequent mess after the scavenge pumps had done their duty....................................

 

Good rust proofing method though!......

[mic]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by - mic on 17 Jul 2010 14:07:19