36-2 to 36-4 flywheel "Update Now working with Emerald"

[Tim V-W]

While replacing my leaking crankshaft oil seal I have fitted a lightened flywheel. As I had an Emerald to fit I thought a 36-4 pattern flywheel would be OK.

 

My engine is an ex 1400ss to 1800 upgrade with ff 1400ss plenum with stepper motor idle air control and (up 'til now) 36-2 1400 flywheel with standard 1400SS ecu.

 

All is back in the car with the Emerald fitted, but a quick trial tonight had power to the Emerald and a green light on cranking but it wouldn't fire.

 

Emerald config is set to:

 

36-4 Rover 2

grouped injectors

distributor and single coil

 

Do I need to do some rewiring of injectors, or is there something I have overlooked in the Emerald settings?

 

Battery volts in the live screen showed 11.6 so I have put on charge until tomorrow, but want to be sure I have not missed something fundamental.

 

Thanks

 

Tim

 

Edited by - Tim V-W on 12 Jun 2010 17:58:01

 

Edited by - Tim V-W on 12 Jun 2010 17:58:22

[SLR No.77]

Tim, I had to rewire my injectors when I fitted an Emerald, but still running the 1400 36-2 flywheel. IIRC you'll only have an output for injectors 1 and 2, therefore open the injector loom and link the wiring for 1 & 4, 2 & 3. It's not necessary to disconnect anything from the loom plug, just cut the wires within the loom and link them together (easier to swap back!). I'm struggling to remember but I think this is correct, maybe wait for further comments ...

 

Stu.

[Tony Whitley]

Why did you have to rewire the injectors Stu? I have a 1400 to 1800 SS EU2 with 36-2 lightened flywheel and the Emerald was a straight swap.

 

We had some fun and games fitting an Emerald to Chris Norman's car. I think it was because we were not uploading the configuration properly, I'm not sure (Note that it's separate to uploading the map). He had got a green light when cranking at some point but when I got there it was staying red. After fiddling with the config a few times we got a green light and the engine burst into life. Sorry I can't be more precise.

[SLR No.77]

I'm sure I had a similar problem to Tim and Oily advised me to modify the injector loom wiring.

 

Stu.

[Mick Day]

I did this swap in 2000 & yes the loom had to be modified. But I'm using a GEMS ECU which only offers one mode of injector firing, & that is the opposite to my 1994 MEMS. So the question is if the Emerald can be switched from group to simultaneous (from rough memory are those the 2 options?) & can be correctly programmed to pick up the tooth pattern why doesn't it work? Maybe a chat with Karl at Emerald?

[ric355]

Have you set the startup timing and reset the throttle pot on the Emerald?

[raw]

Tim

I had the same setup when I had a Rover engine but the injectors were definately wired 1-4, 2-3 to give the grouped setup. Have you reset the throttle pot in the Emerald?

 

Hopefully now that the crankshaft oil seal is changed you'll stop oil mist:-)

 

Cheers

Andrew

 

[Tim V-W]

I spoke to Dave Walker this afternoon and he has given me a couple of things to try.

 

I am pretty sure it has to do with the injectors as my injector sub loom has a five pin connection and I am pretty sure that later looms had only three. If all else fails I will re-wire 1-4, 2-3.

 

If I need to do this what is the best way to go about it?

 

I have an injector sub loom with a three pin connector from the engine that I bought, can I use this connected to the appropriate feeds from the Emerald (pins 23&24)

 

I did set up the TPS and the stepper motor but any other thoughts are welcome.

 

 

Andrew - I have been pondering the lack of oil mist wafting back from my car and assuming (fingers crossed) that the leak is fixed, I will carry a plant sprayer filled with oil which I will spray backwards periodically so that you can continue to benefit from my (free) corrosion protection scheme 😬

 

Tim

[SLR No.77]

Tim, remove any loom tape then remove the convoluted plastic cover. The injectors will have a common "return", ignore it. Locate the separate "feed" wires for the four injectors then pair them together, 1&4, 2&3. Cut the wires for 1&4 at a suitable point, then link the 2 wires to the injectors together, and connect them to the original wire running to the plug that was injector 1. Tape up the original injector 4 wire from the plug as this will no longer be used. Do the same with 2&3 - 2 wires to injectors 2 & 3 brought together, then connected to the injector 2 plug wire, tape up injector 3 plug wire.

 

If you get it right the result should be that the ECU connection to injector 1 now powers 1&4, and the connection to injector 2 now powers 2&3. Does that make sense?

 

Stu.

[Tim V-W]

Stu

 

Thanks for that. I guess it is pretty simple to work it out, but nice to have it confirmed.

 

It makes perfect sense and it is probably easier to do it that way than to mess about with the later three wire injector sub loom I have as that seems to have larger connectors for each injector which probably wont fit under my FF ali plenum.

 

Cheers

 

Tim

[Tim V-W]

Update for those searching in future.

 

I have now got the car running and driving on the Emerald.

 

My plan today was to see if the car would start with a topped up battery and then, if not, plan A was to use the 'custom' setting in the injector set up to fire 1&4 together and 2&3 together (suggested by Dave W). Plan B if A failed was to rewire the injectors.

 

I started fresh with config and set up of TPS and stepper motor and dialed in 60 on the IAC position in the live adjustments. switched the ignition off and on again and pushed the button.

 

It started straight away and with a touch more IAC it was idling OK. once warm it settled at 980rpm and didn't miss a beat.

 

A couple of short runs later it is clear that the starting will need further adjustment. I forgot to block the connection for the inlet air sensor pipe and when I did the idle became a bit rough and starting more difficult.

 

The key point is that i completely forgot to set up the injectors and left the setting on grouped, so it appears that the wiring loom is irrelevant. Could it be that grouped injection defaults to firing 1&4 and 2&3.

 

Finally, the lightened flywheel is a revelation, the car feels much revier, with better throttle response.

 

Thanks to all those that advised, i am sure there will be more questions as I tinker further, but I will put them into new posts.

 

Cheers

 

Tim

 

 

Edited by - Tim V-W on 12 Jun 2010 17:59:15

 

Edited by - Tim V-W on 12 Jun 2010 17:59:52

[jingars]

Well done, Tim I was beginning to think that I wouldn't see you and Jane next Sunday....

 

When we aren't sight-seeing I must ask you about the flywheel, it sounds very interesting.

[Mavic82]

Spiffing! It will be throttle bodies next, then big brakes, then carbon then..........

 

The Welsh blat is much more fun in the 7 than a Civic 😬

[raw]

Tim

Well done; as Guy says, it'll be throttle bodies next, although Duratec is the way forward:-)

 

Guess you're not doing RoI Race this year then?

 

Cheers

Andrew

[Tim V-W]

I also fitted mintex pads to the front brakes and they are a marked improvement at a fraction of the cost of a big brake set-up.

 

I was really fed up when i found out that RTI and Welsh Blat are on the same weekend this year as I had a crew spot lined up and there are eight MG Springs entering this year. To cap it all I got offered a spot on a traditional sailing Falmouth Shrimper for that weekend too.

 

However, we can't do it all and Welsh Blat just has to be done in a seven this year after having so much fun in a Honda Civic last year 😬

 

I could probably be persuaded to go for TB's fairly easily now I have to run the Emerald with the new flywheel.

 

 

[Windy Corner]

Well Done Tim,

 

Would be good to see you all at the weekend, if I have my car back by then..........

 

Rik

 

Roadsport SV 1.6 Sigma 150

in Viper Blue here

[Tim V-W]

Rik

 

Thanks,

 

Hope your car is fixed, by the weekend.

 

Tim