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Anyone willing & able to assist with CRB & clutch replacement?


Neil_K

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Having spent all day doing this for charity at Dad's Day Out, I now have a cooked clutch and a CRB that sounds like a caged rodent *rolleyes* The car still drives fine but the clutch has lost some 'bite' and the CRB definately sounds like it wants to self-implode. But we made a lot of money for The Children's Trust so I don't mind! 😬

 

I have pencilled in the weekend 12/13 June to lift engine out and do the work, but this is extending beyond anything I've attempted before. I'm keen to learn, but would anyone willing & able to lend an engine crane and some spannering time + experience/guidance to assist me please? Payment in tea, coffee, beers, sausages, NTL contrib of your choosing etc. I'm in Banstead, Surrey.

 

 

While the engine is out, anything else I should consider doing / replacing? Car is a 1800 VVC wet sump K series. I know there are those who say you can do it without removing the engine, but I need to drain it of fluids anyway. Plus as the engine has never been out, it's a chance to have a good inspect and clean etc.

 

Final question, with regards to the clutch, is it likely to be just the friction plate that needs replacing?

 

 

Thanks *wavey*

 

 

 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Calm down dear, it's only a forum!

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Neil, you can replace the CRB only with the engine in the car, to replace the clutch you will have to take the engine out. I have just done this on my 1.8K (non-VVC)

 

I would guess it will be just the friction plate but until you take it out you won't really know. There are 2 types of clutch for the K-Series, the standard and the uprated AP variety, do you know which one you have?

 

You will need 2 litres of gearbox oil as it is likely to pour out when you lift the engine and box out. You will have to drain out the coolant so it is good time to change it, you don't need to drain the engine oil.

 

You will need a decent torque wrench (for the clutch plate bolts) but apart from that a standard toolset will suffice.

 

Others things I replaced/did whilst I was at it;

 

Replace any hoses that are looking tired (I changed to completely silicone)

Replace clutch cable (is the VVC cable or hydraulic)

Engine and gearbox mounts

Alternator belt

Change to remote thermostat (I did QED but also PRRT option)

 

12th/13th is Le Mans weekend so unfortunately I will be there *cool* so can't offer any practical assistance.

 

I hired an engine crane for the weekend, cost about £30, if you can't find the loan of one.

 

Graham.

 

R7 GPK

Superlight #85

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Hi Neil,

if you can make it over to Fleet, I can help.

Preferably during the week when I'm off (I work rotating shifts), but may be able to do weekends too...

 

It takes me about an hour to remove an engine on my own and it can be done quite easily whilst leaving the 'box in place *smile*

 

I haven't a spare CRB, but have a new uprated clutch (friction and pressure plates) which I can let you have for a bit less than new price *thumbup*

 

I have a hoist and all the tools needed...

 

BM me if I can help.

 

Cheers - Simon

 

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Neil, you're in Banstead, aren't you?

 

If so and assuming I'm around, I'll give you a hand. If you've got all the bits, we can knock it off in a day *thumbup*. I'll know my whereabouts for that weekend in a few days.

 

Ping me a mail if I haven't got back to you by Tuesday.

 

*arrowright* *arrowright*Harry Flatters - 263bhp of VX joy *arrowright* *arrowright* *thumbup*

AKA Steve Mell - Su77on Se7ener

 

Edited by - Harry Flatters on 27 May 2010 23:48:12

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Hi John, not a broken record at all, in fact I've just been searching for your article myself. I will BM you for a copy from LF 6 years back if that's OK?

 

Graham - most of what is on your list I'd considered also / was planning to do apart from the mounts. Is this really critical? I don't know what kind of clutch I have, it'll be the original clutch from a 2000 1.8 K-series VVC car. What's the easiest way to find out before taking it apart?

 

 

Simon - thank you very much for the offer. I can get to Fleet so that may be ideal, although i am sadly limited to the weekend 12/13 June due to work, wife and various motorsport commitments. If that is suitable for you then please let me know! Thank you for the generous offer of time and facilities. I was planning to fit the uprated AP clutch (not sure what's in there at the moment), as lets just say I use the car to the full.

 

 

Steve - thank you very much, that may also work. I'm happy to get all the bits and do any prep work needed if I have a plan worked out. Yes, I'm in Banstead, so that may work out if you're free?

 

 

Thank you to everyone who's posted, what a wonderful club we have *thumbup*

 

 

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Neil, I expect Oily might have a better view on this but generally speaking changing the flywheel means rebalancing the crank, flywheel and clutch as one complete assembly. Not such a small job on a K as you can't just strip the bottom end and whip the crank out.

 

You could just swap out the f/w and you may be lucky and not generate an imbalance. OTOH you might also end up with potentially nasty vibrations.

 

*arrowright* *arrowright*Harry Flatters - 263bhp of VX joy *arrowright* *arrowright* *thumbup*

AKA Steve Mell - Su77on Se7ener

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Hi Neil - I can probably manage the Saturday - not back at work until Sunday..

 

Flywheel - you can fit on a standard crank no problem. They aren't balanced together at the factory (Rover or Caterham). As it happens, the standard crank is normally more in-balance than the 'uprated' versions (off-the-shelf) and the flywheel is, of course, balanced at manufacture.

 

As it happens, I also have a new DVA steel flywheel available (fitted to an engine to test, but done less than 10 miles). It is a thing of beauty and much shinyness!

 

BM me if interested in the flywheel and/or clutch.

 

In addition, you would need to buy the CRB and a set of new flywheel bolts.

 

Cheers - Simon

 

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generally speaking changing the flywheel means rebalancing the crank, flywheel and clutch as one complete assembly. Not such a small job on a K as you can't just strip the bottom end and whip the crank out.


 

This isn't a piece of Luton Lard like your engine Steve. This is a K Series. *tongue*

 

I may be around that weekend, and I think I have a gearbox bung to stop the oil pouring out. On the other hand, as a former owner of a proper Caterham (read VX powered) I would be leaving the gearbox in situ and splitting the engine & box in the car.

 

I also (probably) have (Angus's) hoist if you can arrange transport (won't fit in my car.... - Collect Felbridge deliver back to Angus in Ewhurst)

 

Edited by - EFA on 28 May 2010 08:59:59

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Neil

 

A standard clutch for a K series, 2000 vintage, was a Quinton Hazell part. I have a part used clutch plate & cover fitted in 2002 but removed as part of an engine upgrade in 2006. In all it did 12036 miles; some track days but no race starts. It's sitting on my bench & yours for free if you collect.

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Thank you all, once again *thumbup*

 

Simon - definately interested in flywheel and clutch. They were just the parts I was looking to change to, so will send you a BM. Thanks

 

Arnie - thanks, I'm happy to do the legwork. Just need to see on time though, that's all.

 

MIck - thanks very much for the offer. My clutch is technically newer than yours in terms of milage! (although it gets some abuse). Seeing as I have it all out, I want to upgrade while I have the opportunity, but very kind of you to offer yours for free *thumbup*

 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Calm down dear, it's only a forum!

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