getting a crossflow and Type 9 gearbox back together.

[pete east]

Trying the get a repaired crossflow, back with its gearbox, but for some reason it just does not want to know. The new AP clutch driven plate fits and slides on the gearbox input shaft smoothly enough, and despite using several different types of clutch alignment tool, it still will just not go back together, Tried lifting one rear wheel so that the input shaft could be rotated to get the splines to line up, but it wont have it. and just clunks against, but will not engage on the splines.

Anyone out there got any ideas for getting the engine and gearbox back together.

 

[CaterBram]

Don't forget that the end of the splined shaft has a straight shaft section which fit's into a round hole hind the clutch plate, if the clutch plate and the hole are not fully alighned it won't go in, or if you have picked a burr up.

 

When I put mine back together for the first time last month it seemed not to want to go but a mixture between making things were correctly lined up and ensuring the the gearbox & engine were seperatly supported so that the shaft and bore were parrallel to each other it slowly eased in. Pulled in the rest of the way with the mounting screws.

 

Just don't make the same mistake I did and forget to tighten the starter motor up fully 😳

 

Q469 WET, 1990 1690 Xflow Long Cockpit in Ali except for the red bits. .CaterBram on Facebook

[pete east]

Thank you for your reply. I am afraid we have done the things you suggested, using a jack under the bell housing to allow careful alignment horizontally and vertically between engine and gearbox. But it just wont go together. But your point is taken and we will just have to keep on trying to refine the alignment still further, frustrating though, as we have done this so many times without a problem, where engine and gearbox just went together smoothly.

[Irrelevant]

If you know the gearbox shaft definately fits into the clutch/spigot bearing then you might want to try drawing them together. Use some threaded rod with nuts either side where you can and some long bolts with nuts on where you can only get to one side.

This will allow you to get it properly level and apply pressure . . . then with some wobbling of various parts, you should find it will klunk together without too much trouble.

[OliverSedlacek]

On one hand, mating an engine and gearbox can just be frustratingly difficult. On the other hand I've managed to break a bell housing drawing them together using bolts when I'd assembled something incorrectly 😳. Which bits have you changed other than the clutch friction plate (I assume that's what you mean by the 'driven' plate).

[allen]

If the clutch spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft is a needle roller - check that all is OK and no needles have been displaced. Irf phosphor bronze, look for a burr, might need replacing - right sod to get out though.

 

Failing that, a trial fit with the clutch cover plate loose - so the driven plate can self align, could be a usefull check - carefull removal should keep the driven plate in the correct position (sometimes 😬), even if not, you'll know it fits if the driven plate is correctly aligned.

 

Allen

[Irrelevant]

You sure the AP plate is not back to front?

[pete east]

Job done, just used threaded rods as guides passing through the sleeved holes on the engine block, as suggested by Epithemeus. which meant that once these were lined up and engaged with the corresponding holes in the bell housing, the spigot bearing was in line with the spigot housing hole in the end of the crankshaft, even before the input shaft, and splined centre of the driven plate were anywhere near eachother. it was then just a matter of sliding the engine back on the threaded rods, and it went together smoothly.

As usual great help from club members, so thank you all very much for your replies.

Best Regards

Pete.

[OliverSedlacek]

Well done