overcooling 1.6 K series (but not in the archives!)

[roammmm]

Hi there

I went throgh the archives but did not find out any answer to my problem.

 

Symptoms on my 1.6 K from 1998:

When the car is not running fast, water temp is more or less OK (between 60-80, whereas before I had this problem it was always stuch to 80 deg). It decreases when I strongly accelerate, and after does not raise higher than 40 even in the trafic jam. I touched the hoses : all of them are hot.

 

What I have done until now:

- I have already changed the thermostat (and had much fun...)

- tested the gauge : it is OK

- cautiously and several times bled the system, with the nose of my 7 as high as possible.

 

....and the overcooling remains

 

The last remains options for default are

- the sensor : by why does it fail only when running fast ??????

- the water pump : would rather show overheating there I guess. Not the pump then.

- piggy pig bleeding of the system: to be done again. There again I was cautious and made it several times.

 

Thanks for your advice...

 

 

 

 

Please forgive typos or bad wordings : french is my mother tongue

 

7 1.6 K '98

[allen]

Roammm,

 

I am not a Kseries expert (have a zetec), but it does sound like air in the system is giving false readings - my post wil get it back to the top and I hope someone who knows more about your engine will respond.

 

allen

[murph7355]

Does the thermostat actually work (you say you've replaced it but you could have another dud)?

 

Also, is it in the correct way round (I believe you can put them in the wrong way).

 

What happens when you take it out and run the car? Does it do exactly the same thing?

 

Sender unit could well be dodgy too. Perhaps clean all the contacts and maybe try a new one.

 

What sort of coolant have you put in it? Have you put neat undiluted stuff in (not sure what would happen if you did but wouldn't be wise).

 

Are the hoses too hot to grab for a while, or just warm?

 

It sounds like either the thermostat's knackered or the gauge is reading low (which would be a sender problem in all likelihood).

[roammmm]

Thanks for your input

My answers to above questions:

 

Does the thermostat actually work (you say you've replaced it but you could have another dud)?

-Hope it does : it is brand new:!!!!!

 

Also, is it in the correct way round (I believe you can put them in the wrong way).

-Same way as the previous one was. I believe if it was the wrong way, it would not open and overheat.

 

What happens when you take it out and run the car? Does it do exactly the same thing?

-Did not try yet. I prefer to do it as a last chance try.

 

Sender unit could well be dodgy too. Perhaps clean all the contacts and maybe try a new one.

-I will buy a new one once I am sure it is not something else (Rover dealer quite far away I must say)

 

What sort of coolant have you put in it? Have you put neat undiluted stuff in (not sure what would happen if you did but wouldn't be wise).

-Yes : undiluted

 

Are the hoses too hot to grab for a while, or just warm?

-Too hot to grab it, doctor

 

It sounds like either the thermostat's knackered or the gauge is reading low (which would be a sender problem in all likelihood).

-I believe the gauge is OK : what test can I do to check it for sure ?

 

 

 

7 1.6 K '98

[F355GTS]

Do you have an Oil temp guage?, you could swap the wires to this and see if oyu get fluctuating radings, (I read somewhere that they are calibrated the same so needle should be in similar position as the Water temp gauge.

 

Also check the Earth connections to the back of the gauge that can cause bad readings

 

 

Definately worth a try without the Thermostat, I know why you don't want to change it, it's a nightmare job!

 

Mark

[Peter Carmichael]

The sender is a dud, simple as that; no cooling system keeps an engine at 40 degrees in traffic.

 

The thermostat is working; all the hoses are *hot* rather than 40 degrees warm.

 

 

[CHRIS CLARK]

You can check the gauge operation by removing the sender wire and turn on the inition. Check the deflection then get someone to earth out the sender wire to the block. See what happens!!! Full deflection should occur (& very quickly too). If this workls OK then suspect the sender is U/S.

 

Clamshell Club Founder Member.

[Gary G]

I have the same problem currently with my 1600ss. It reads 40 even after a long period on the motorway. Oil however is normal at 80-100 depending on how hard I'm pushing the car.

 

Tonight after a long blat, there was plenty of heat in the radiator (top and bottom) and after a few minutes of idling the fan came on even though the temperature stayed at 40. My conclusion is that everything is fine, but the sender is broken.

 

Anyone agree? If you do agree, how easy is it to fix this myself (a non-competent monkey who is not brave enough yet to change his own oil)?

 

C7 GAR

 

[roammmm]

OK guys ! That's much of help !

 

As I wrote in first post, I had tested the gauge and it is 100% OK. I even exchanged yesterday evening the connections between oil pressure gauge (no oil temp available) and water temp gauge: symptom appears on the oil presure gauge and the water temp gauge goes up.

 

Then the temp gauge is definitively OK.

 

As adviced, I now suspect the sensor.

I will get a new one then (by the way : I am I right if ask the same as the Rover original part ?)

 

 

BUT who can explain me why the gauge reads less temp when I drive and accelerate fast ?????

OK, I'll leave my cartesian spirit aside and just change this F**** sensor.

 

[F355GTS]

Gary

 

 

Sounds like the Sender

 

Mark

[CHRIS CLARK]

Gary.

Sender is easy to change, but do it with a cold engine!!!!

 

Clamshell Club Founder Member.

[Gary G]

Thanks for your help guys.