Strange mis/interuption of power on K series?

[Sheds Moderator]

As others have said this can be a number of things. A favourite is the battery isolator if fitted, these are cheap and cheerful and often give trouble. This caused cutting out on mine.

 

See also usual suspects like the coil, and all the sensors for the ignition. Years ago I had a Fiesta which used to cough at high speed, then run normally. A diagnostic (that's not someone who lives a long way from a church BTW) showed up a duff magnetic switch, not a CPS but somehting that does the same job. It took 2 trips to a Ford dealer to get it fixed, one to a mechanic who had no idea and diagnosed carb icing (it was July ) and the 2nd to one who had knowledge of how car engines work.

[jingars]

BoSS,

 

No battery master switch fitted, and I have messed around with cabling for ever. I cannot definitively rule out electrics, but i am now on a mission with the fuel pump

 

 

[charlie_pank]

You could fit a fuel pressure sensor, then you'd know for sure.

[jingars]

Charlie, I have just given my credit card details to Merlin Motorsport, so it is a case of fingers in my ears and

 

"la-la-la I can't hear you!"

 

Of course, if it still plays up I will be back on here....

[jingars]

Right then, how can I force the engine to keep pumping fuel?

 

I have most of the dismantling sorted (I think), but when sprog 3 flicks the electrics on for me I just get a quick spurt of petrol and then that's it.

 

I was rather hoping that disconnecting the fuel pipe at the bulkhead fuel filter point would enable me to use the pump to remove most of the juice in the tank into a container; shirley the system isn't pressurised and so should power the pump to obtain more bang fluid?

 

I will seek to get a Mickey Mouse syphon pump from the local motor factors (not overly helpful today) during the course of tomorrow, but I would like to know where I am going wrong.

 

Edited by - jingars on 14 Mar 2011 19:41:22

[david nelson]

I had what seamed to be a miss fire. change this and that but never got to the bottom of it till I went to the two Steve's. We had just put the car on the roles and was worming it through. Steve said the water temp was all over the place but the stack dash was solid. The problem was resoled by a quick crip of the water temp wires to the ecu.

 

David

[Kevsta]

I had thought that this would work too but the prime must be non regulated by pressure. You'll therefore need constant 12v to the pump by a wire direct to it, I can't remember if there is a plug between the pump and the main loom but that would be your best bet to add 12v with some spare wire. It should pump out the fluid quite quickly. I suppose if you have the inertia switch this would be a good place to do it.

 

Or use a syphon. There are baffles in the tank by the way so you'll have a fair bit left in after 'emptying'.

 

Kev

[jingars]

Cheers Kev - syphon pump acquired, so will have a play this eve.

 

Not thought about baffles, so thanks for the heads-up

[jingars]

Well, that was one of those days.....

 

With thanks to Mankee for a lot of very detailed instructions via email, and with a very prompt service from Merlin Motorsports, I have fitted a new fuel pump and associated filter.

 

And the bloody thing still does the same as before. I know, I was warned!

 

So,

 

1. Temp sensor and wiring

2. Crank position sensor and wiring (thanks to Tim V-W for the heads-up that I might need to change the wiring connector of any new CPS purchased)

3. Maybe look at another TPS

4. Coil? Seems strange that it would only play up immediatley after applying some beans

 

Car is EU2.

[Mankee]

Ah bugger. ☹️

[NoLimits]

My mother in laws old ZT 160 turbo does exactly the same - gentle throtle and its fine all the way to the red line but step on it and its like someone throws an anchor out for half a second and then away again.