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MBE Programming port

Petrolhead

By Petrolhead
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rj

rj

Posted
Posted

Pins are also available from RS - they are from Sure Seal Mini connectors.

 

The mapping lead can be found at MBEs web page. I can find the connections to the ECU for you if you want.

 

PM me your email address...

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Paul Deslandes

Paul Deslandes

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Assuming its an MBE 967 ECU then you'll need a 9 pin female D type connector wired into the loom plug that mates with the ECU. You only need to connect three wires, forget the resistors and associated links shown on the SBD diagram as they're not necessary.

 

ECU pin 14 serial data receive to D type pin 3

ECU pin 32 serial data transmit to D type pin 2

ECU pin 6 ground to D type pin 1

 

Note that a standard RS232 serial data cable must not be used as the wiring is different. You should only use a cable wired as per the SBD diagram. If you want to modify a standard RS232 cable then make sure you disconnect all the unwanted wires as well as modifying the needed ones or you could damage the ECU, your PC, or both.

 

If you're stuck getting the pins for the ecu plug, drop me a blatmail with your address and I'll put some in the post. I've even got some with wires attached! You can get the D type from RS Components or Maplin.

 

Paul

 

 

 

Edited by - Paul Deslandes on 5 Apr 2010 23:46:20

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Paul Deslandes

Paul Deslandes

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It might help diagnose your misfire problem. You'll be able to see whether the air and water temperature (and baro sensor if fitted) readings are sensible and stable. Similarly the throttle pot voltage.

 

Can you check your fuel pressure? If the regulator's sticking, the pressure could go right up and you'll be running very rich. The misfire might be a secondary symptom of the plugs fouling which NGKs are prone to if over fuelled. Unless you're running closed-loop lambda the correct fuelling depends on the injectors remaining in calibration, which includes the fuel pressure remaining constant.

 

Have you tried having your injectors cleaned? Although its unlikely that they'd all go faulty together, I suppose if some muck got through from the tank (unlikely if the filter's okay) it might affect all of them.

 

I think I'd try to check the fuel pressure before doing anything else. Then check the air and water temp sensors, either by changing them or by reading the ECU inputs. Make sure that the sensor and loom connectors are clean.

 

Alan Carswell collected my serial data tail cable on Sunday as part of buying my old 967 ECU. If you blatmail him he might be prepared to lend/sell it to you. Its complete with pins so you can just push them into the loom socket.

 

BTW, if your laptop doesn't have a serial port you'll need a USB to serial adapter to connect the serial cable.

 

One last thought, although it wouldn't cause sooting up. Not sure what loom you have but if it includes power and fuel pump relays, make sure that these are pushed fully home and that the lucar spade connectors in the socket are not loose or pushed out. I had this a few years ago and it had me going for several days!

 

 

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Petrolhead

Petrolhead

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I assume that the water temp?

 

When I meared the water temp yesterday just after switching off the engine there was no reading. I also started the engine and while it was running pulled the plug off the water temp sender and no change to the engine note

 

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Paul Deslandes

Paul Deslandes

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On my car the water and air temperature sensors are the same type. Both the Ford and Bosch sensors have a negative temperature coefficient so the resistance drops as the temperature increases. According to my MBE calibration curves, the voltage at the sensor should read about 3.6Volts at 20degC and 1.1V at 90degC. I have a suspicion that if the sensor goes either short or open circuit, this is detected by the ECU and the reading ignored, hence no change in engine note when unplugged. If you have some short bits of thin insulated wire and a multimeter, you could try and carefully connect to the sensor pins by pushing the wires into the plug and then fitting it to the sensor, and see what the voltage reads with the engine running. It should be somewhere between about 1 and 4 Volts, the lower the temp the higher the voltage, dropping as the engine warms up.

 

 

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nigelpugh

nigelpugh

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Assuming its an MBE 967 ECU then you'll need a 9 pin female D type connector wired into the loom plug that mates with the ECU. You only need to connect three wires, forget the resistors and associated links shown on the SBD diagram as they're not necessary.

 

ECU pin 14 serial data receive to D type pin 3

ECU pin 32 serial data transmit to D type pin 2

ECU pin 6 ground to D type pin 1

 

I can confirm that the above is correct, as this is exactly what we did with my old R400, when it was rolling road set up at Mech Repairs.

 

Nigel

 

Nigel Pugh - Area Representative - WAGS - Worcestershire Area Group Sevens

 

R500 CP - New 2008 Duratec R500

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nigelpugh

nigelpugh

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Mark,

 

Glad to hear that the old girl is still going well then *wavey*

 

Where did you have it remapped? and did they use the existing ( remapped) map from my car as mapped by mech repairs?

 

Only ask as I wanted to know if they used a base or started from scratch?

 

Nigel

 

Nigel Pugh - Area Representative - WAGS - Worcestershire Area Group Sevens

 

R500 CP - New 2008 Duratec R500

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Paul Deslandes

Paul Deslandes

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PH I've found the bits in my junk box and made up a new tail cable so, if you'd like to borrow them, blatmail me your address and I'll get the cables in the post to you tomorrow on loan. If you don't have a pc with a serial port you can borrow my USB/serial adapter but you'll need to install some drivers. Include your email address and I'll email these as an attachment.

 

Please let me have them back when you've done with them *thumbup*

 

 

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Petrolhead

Petrolhead

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When running the mapping software the TPS readout on idle flickers between a green background and an orange background. The figures also fluctuate. Why would this be?

 

Anyone have a MBE 4 digit pin code for the R400 map. This was supplied by MBE as an ipgrade from SLR spec to R400 spec

 

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Carl

Carl

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Hi Peter

 

I researched on the internet and spoke to a lot of people including SBD to find out if there was anyone decent in the North who can remap an MBE. Steve at SBD recommended Damian at Daytuner who are based near Harrogate as he is very thorough and has been buying a lot of kit from them.

 

He mapped my car in 4 hours after a fairly big change in spec and it now feels miles better than pre rebuild (more torque and smoother). I would definitely go there again and he remedied some issues with the previous map (done by a well respected outfit in Kent who obviously had a bad day when doing my car!)

 

 

Edited by - Carl on 13 Apr 2010 19:30:14

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