Steve Robinson Posted August 18, 2002 Share Posted August 18, 2002 Have had success in getting the engine and gearbox in and started - YIPPEEE!!! However, have run the engine until it got well over 90 and the fan didn't kick in. Have checked all of the obvious electrical connections and can't see anything wrong, any ideas on where to look next? Secondly, the speedo connection in the footwell from the transmission tunnel seems impossible to push together, is this just a case of brute force? Last one, cannot get the indicator repaeaters onto the wings with the rubber in place. Basically the studs are too short to get the nuts to take, but cannot see an easy way to remove the studs (as the build manual suggests), so any advice would be appreciated. Many thanks in advance Robbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted August 18, 2002 Share Posted August 18, 2002 No idea about repeaters (I didn't fit them to the wings) or the speedo (my car doesn't use the gearbox speedo drive as it has the Stack dash) but..... With reference to your fan problem, try shorting the 2 wires of the fan switch together. The fan should run. If it does not run, you have a supply/wiring issue. If it does run, you have a duff fan switch. Jue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miff Posted August 18, 2002 Share Posted August 18, 2002 i had the same problem with my fan not kicking in, after doing what julian suggested to check the fan is working look at where the thermostat is. I/we had mounted the rad completely upside-down so only cooled water was running past the thermostat and never activating the fan! (doh!) can't help with the others, sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted August 18, 2002 Share Posted August 18, 2002 Steve i think you have a air lock this will stop the fan working make sure you bleed it properly the block plug for the speedo only goes in one way you can remove the studs in the side repeaters just snap out and fit longer ones if you need to if you have a heater fitted it is harder to bleed Edited by - fred on 18 Aug 2002 20:53:13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooby dooby doo Posted August 18, 2002 Share Posted August 18, 2002 the mechanical speedo is pile of ***** and the start of a world of pain and suffering IME ☹️. I've had it fail 4 times in the 26,000 I've had the car. It fell out once and then destroyed the angle drive on the road (40 quid or something stupid for a new one), Next time I had the correct type of 90 degree circlip pliers to put it back in, then the drive pin sheared, and the 4th time I just cabled tied it out the way and bought a bike speedo.Get some sort of electronic speedo and use that instead would be my recommendation. Sorry if I sound a bit bitter about this - I am ❗ OTOH - I've always fitted it from under the car using the 90 degree circlip pliers. Actually - which bit are you trying to fit 🤔 the springy thing is the 'driveshaft' that sits half in the g/box and half in the angle drive. The brass tophat thing fits inbetween and then the circlip holds the tophat in place which holds the whole caboodle 'together' (for about 5 minutes). Its really wobbly and **** even when its all correct. HOOPY CYCLE WINGS CUCUMBER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bl0498 Posted August 18, 2002 Share Posted August 18, 2002 Robbo, For the repeaters I recall that I had to very gently bend back the backplate of the repeater into a very very large radius arch - but you need to do this very gently and ensure that the repeater lens will still clip in properly on the end - you may want to adjust the retaining protruding metal piece a little. In this way you can get a good fit on the wing. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil R Posted August 19, 2002 Share Posted August 19, 2002 Robbo, I seem to remember that the build manual said something about removing the studs from the repeaters and replacing them with bolts (can't remember what size). /Phil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Nuts Posted August 19, 2002 Share Posted August 19, 2002 Steve, all sound advice so far on the fan problem. There's another thing too if the above doesn't throw up any leads. Make sure you give the engine a few revs while it warms up - I've seen Ks get to 100 degrees before the fan kicks in if they are left idling. Hold the engine at about 2000 rpm as the temp goes over 80 - it appears to help keep everything moving! NN 😳 Lotus @ Herts Edited by - No Nuts on 19 Aug 2002 09:25:31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted August 19, 2002 Share Posted August 19, 2002 To remove the stud on the repeaters place a sockect just larger than the head of the stud behind it and then press out in a vice. End of thread on one face, sockect on the other. Simple.....sure I got that from the build manual too. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Grundy Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Steve Congrats on getting the engine started. When does it go for the post build check? About time I came round to have a look at the beasty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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