Shad Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 Each time I change the oil and replace my filter I've been using the new ally washer provided by Rover (well, Volvo actually - don't ask) with the filter. However, I have finally got around to trying to work out where all the oil on the underneath of my car is coming from and the sump plug was barely finger tight. This also explains the drips on the garage floor Anyway, it has obviously worked its way loose over the last 2k miles since I changed the oil. Should I be using a different kind of washer to prevent this? I don't want to tighten it too much, I can't imagine the thread in the sump would need much torque to strip. Simon niknak.org Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gingerbread Man Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 Wind a bit of PTFE on it. It'll help keep it snugger in the thread and provide a seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allen Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 Do they really supply an alloy washer - old school they used to be copper washers and they work hardned - one either used a new one each time or annealed it (heated it up and let it cool gradually as far as I recall) I guess the alloy ones could work harden the same? Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shad Posted March 28, 2010 Author Share Posted March 28, 2010 Not sure if it's just because Volvo (who are the 'official' MG/Rover parts dealer in Newbury) don't know any better of if the normal Rover sump is ok with an ally washer. I notice CC do copper washers for £1 a pop, which seems expensive but then again my penny-pinching is the reason I buy the filter from Volvo and that has probably got me in this mess to start with Anyway, I'll try some PTFE next time as well as a copper washer, cheers Simon niknak.org Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggerman Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 I'm definately old school. Use a copper washer they do the job properly. You should anneal the washer each time you re-use it. Heat it to red hot with a gas flame (even the kitchen hob (if the misses isn't around) then chuck in cold water. It will emerge soft and like brand new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 If you insist in using PTFE tape anywhere near the oil system on a car, only wind it on the threads near the head, leaving the first few threads clear so it doesn't cut up and fall off in the sump ready to be picked up by the pump. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 Why not ditch the copper washer & use a bonded (Dowty washer) seal? here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petefoster Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 Washer what washer *eek* I just have thissump plug which doesn't have any washer and not a drop spilled 😬 😬 😬 Pete I plan to live for ever...so far so good!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6speedmanual Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 For years on many cars I have used Hylomar Blue (the proper RR aero engine stuff) available at all good car accessory shops, on the top end of the threads on all my gearbox and sump plugs. They don't leak, the blue doesn't get in the sump and it offers a degree of threadlocking (don't work loose/shake out) without making it impossible to undo at next oil change. Peter BRAWNGP green SUPERLIGHT FCITW 2009 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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