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Things that broke in Finland


scooby dooby doo

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Thought I'd do a list of everything that failed on my trip to Finland with the Se7ens lads and lasses. Many are due to incorrect fitting and testing or even not been sorted in the first place, a few are due to dodgy parts and a few are due to dodgy design:

 

o 6 degrees of rear tow/e (sp?) in - suspect dodgy batch of dedion tubes as another person on the trip had a new bar with the same problem

 

o dedion rubbing diff, halfshafts split gators from rubbing radius arms - now badly worn. Suspect wrong A-frame (pre 96) supplied

 

o Race fan not being triggered by ECU. never worked from fitting - cause unknown. wired in a manual switch

 

o loose union on apollo tank causing oil leak of approx a 1 litre in 500 miles. PTFE taped and tightened. solved.

 

o coolant around head gasket area from when it boiled over before fitting manual switch. Seems not to have leaked since - might it have resealed 🤔 🤔 or maybe only leak when very hot 🤔 temp never above 80, even on the track, when moving

 

o P-clips needed on some brake line runs

 

o possible brake fluid leak near 3 way union at front. caused a sticker to run considerably..

 

o Race master cylinder leaking round cap. Replace with race cap.

 

o The leak ate the fire extinguisher's plastic housing for the electrical connection. It needed a service anyway...

 

o Fuel line attacked by propshaft - tie wraps seems to have worked but need to check level of damage on line.

 

o Speedo angle drive fell out (3rd time). I give up. Its getting wripped out. Bike speedo (until i get a stack or mycron 3) fitted successfully

 

o Fuel gauge always just sat at 1/8th full. until...

 

o All gauges stopped working. but dash illumination all fine. supect a loose connection in one of the power feeds as green and black wires are both at earth now.

 

o Fit nice, uncracked front right carbon wing, a bodged in place, old, cracked drilled one did the job though.

 

o Play in steering. tightening everything after 500 miles (3 turns on the fron A-Frame bolts 😳) helped but there's some adjustment to do. didn't have a 35mm 🤔 socket to undo the lock nut though.

 

o Bleed brakes again

 

o Paint the '7' on the grill. Hmm... we need a smiley for 7 logo. [7] would do it....

 

o locking grub screw fell out of damper, suspect it wasn't tight.

 

o Starter solenoid spade connector not up to it and became loose and intermittant. camcoated manifold made it possible to jiggle it after petrol stops though.

 

o petrol attacked fog light lens. I have a spare.

 

o battery master switch not wired up correctly. It only prevents the started firing at the moment and needs the other wires plugging in.

 

o Bonnet fit a bit dodgy - more foam and a bit of bending required?

 

o need to fit clear front indicator lenses. Actually... If I do the nifty LED indicator thing I may not bother with that... hmm...

 

o throttle cable came out of throttle body linkage twice (once slipped then broke when redone on same bit of cable - DOH ). Fit throttle stop to peddle

 

o fit 2nd return spring to throttle linkage

 

o removable Spare wheel carrier sits too close to car (as its from the previous chassis and is attached differently. make up new mounting lugs.

 

o Some boot cover press studs a bit loose.

 

 

So.... comments anybody 🤔

 

 

 

 

HOOPY

 

Edited by - hoopy on 14 Aug 2002 10:59:30

 

Edited by - hoopy on 14 Aug 2002 11:05:50

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Most of them aren't car stopping problems. those that were i fixed. .

 

throttle linkage, wired in fan switch, fitted bike speedo, fixed apollo oil leak, tie wrapped fuel line out the way etc....

 

it did about 2000 miles and had its 500 mile check at a carpark at the hotel in karlsborg Sweden...

 

HOOPY

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The lamp is the dangling below the tank variety (for aesthetic reasons only - I prefer it) so that won't help. cracking tip for those that have it mounted on the skin though. *thumbup*

 

The previous lens worked for ages - I only fitted the new lens as I need a new light unit and it came with the new lens. Wasn't it decided that it was just a dodgy batch of lenses? Havn't they used them all up by now? This one did about 1000 miles, the old one is fine after at least 12,000...

 

 

 

HOOPY

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Hoops, I'm surprised it got there since most of your oil was on my driveway :-)) a litany of small disasters, I'd be particularly interested in the exact mode of failure of the throttle linkage, did it come adrift from the trunnion or the hanger bracket?

 

Oily

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oily - first failure of the linkage was the cable slipping through the lock nut on the linkage. we redid it by tightening the allen headed bolt VERY tight into the lock nut around the cable. Then inserting that into the linkage and doing up the nyloc.

 

That held until the cable snapped inside the locknut. I think because i'd done it on the same bit of frayed cable.

 

Second time we did it a bit less tight and on new cable and it seems fine.

 

I notice both times that the mechanism isn't free to rotate on the arm. Is that right? Also its a VERY fiddly job - esp wehn hot and took about 40 mins each time (including unpacking and repacking the car to get to my tools)

 

HOOPY

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Hoopy,

 

That's what you get for too much posing on the web cam, and not enough concentration on the task at hand *smile*.

 

(I'll give you £4000 for the wreck.) 😬 😬

 

Seriously, sound like it was a rollercoaster trip for you, was there a point that you wished you didn't go?

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nowhere near ever wishing i didn't go.

I was well ****ed off when the speedo drive fell out again, a bit narked when the instuments died, not too bothered by the bent dedion (adjustable ARBs and shocks tuned that out) and shocked when i noticed the A-frame being too short. But I'd done 3 trackdays at the time so reasoned it probably wouldn't fail on the cruise back.

 

We also had the head off and successfully back on a blackbirded engine, replaced a live axle diff, an oil pump, and many other bits of fixing and fiddling. its all part of the fun *thumbup* *smile*

 

HOOPY

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Hoops - you forgot to include the 30ft high oil fountain in the carpark at Karlsborg....

 

Can anyone guess what happens if you start the engine without re-connecting the top hose on the Apollo tank?

 

Miraz

 

Edited by - Miraz on 14 Aug 2002 12:30:11

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hmm.. i meant to ask about that...

how full should an apollo tank be? even with the breather disconnected mine was still full above the level of the top hose. And yes, i did forget to reconnect it. and yes, my oil pump functions quite nicely and gives 20ft at idle.

 

hmm... warm idle, 2 bar.

Bernoulli reckoned that

P = rho g h

I think..

 

So...

h = 2E5/10/800

h = 25 metres.

 

hmm... I guess that air resistance to the fountain, the lower pressure in the tank, other factors make it a bit less than that... but it was certainly very impressive!

 

HOOPY

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The trunnion should be free to rotate on the arm, there should be a shoulder on it that prevents the nut doing up far enough to lock onto the arm, if it doesnt turn then the shoulder isnt long enough or its the wrong trunnion, if it doesnt rotate the cable will shear in short order thru flex.

 

Oily

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that's what i thought. But if its loose enough to rotate (as you did it) then the cable slips out. If its done up more tightly then it can't rotate. The shoulder looks long enough but obviously something is wrong somewhere...

 

confused...

 

Its done 1000 miles in a non-rotating state, but only did 500 in a non-rotating, old bit of cable state. I expect it'll not last that long as it is... ☹️

 

 

 

HOOPY

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so maybe the first attempt had the grubscrew too loose (as it slipped out) with a perfectly good nyloc tightness. Then we did it too tight the second time. The 3rd time it wasn't done particularly tight but it still doesn't rotate. Surely if it was all made correctly you could do everything as tight as you wanted and it would stay together but rotate freely due to the step on the trunion.

 

That its all solid surely suggests that either the trunion shoulder is too short or the arm is too thick.... 🤔

 

HOOPY

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