mattobrien Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Following yesterdays mishap on track I am now considering the above question? Is it a relatively straight forward job that someone even with my limited mechanical knowledge can undertake or am I best of leaving it to the professionals? Might be able to rope in some more mechanically minded folk, if I speak to them very nicely and bribe accordingly If anyone has an idiots guide / set of very specific instructions on how to remove a dry sump k-series R500 engine it would be gratefully received. Guess the good thing about have a car that needs work / fettling is that I get to learn. Silver lining and all. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miltec Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 It's not masively difficult, putting it back I found harder (remebering where everything goes) Have you got the build manual? VX 1600 Live Axle T440LKK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattobrien Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 No build manual sadly. Might employ the pro's to put it back, just keen to get it out and off to repair asap. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david nelson Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Even I can do this. You will need an engine hoist and a friend to give you a hand. I am sure someone will be along with the correct order of removal. The best thing to do is find someone local who can spare and afternoon. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Many of us have done this for the 1st time & it does appear daunting. You will need something to lift the engine out with. The best thing to use is an engine crane & they usually come with an owner who has done it before! I did it for the 1st time to get a broken gearbox out with a 3 week deadline to Le-Sept. Friend supplied crane & previous knowledge; I supplied tea & biscuits & got in the way. The next time I did it on my own! Yes with experience it is that easy. There is plenty of DIY help in the archives, just do a search. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Morris Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Not sure what engine you have but best time yet was an injected VX which was on it's engine stand 1hr after it was switched off.....! Install was 1.5hrs following engine re-fresh. It is not hard to remove or install providing you have the correct tools (good socket set) and a good buddy to help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Rob, It's an R500 (K) Matt, the K-series build manual can be found at www.regins.eu/Assembly_Guide.pdf /regin Edited by - RJ on 7 Feb 2010 19:29:45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Morris Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 ☹️ Just read the post..........R500.....Sexy K series, very light compared to VX! Built a couple of R300's and they were easier than VX come engine fit due to weight. Basically quite an easy task if you have basic mechanical ability? Last time I played with an R300 was to perform an engine change between a blown 240+bhp lump back to the std R300.......owner had few tools and performed in single garage, but still job done in 4hrs Phone a few friends, keep the tea flowing and promise food at the end.....should get the job done 😬 If you lived close to Shropshire I would gladly help you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Whilst we were in Sydney the CRB, and Clutch plate when into scrambled eggs mode. FYI there's not a Caterham dealer in Oz that can work on K-series as they were banned for emissions and they use a different engine. Only 2 times did i need any help, and SWMBO gives advise well I say down, looked everything over, as this was VHPD+transmission out and came up with the following list. I would recommend some white tape to tape all leads, and some cheapo plastic boxes to label/put nuts, etc in. WHilst the engine's out, consider a new clutch &/or CRB just from paranoia's sake and completely clean the engine bay/engine of all gunk... 1) Disconnect / remove battery and top earthing wire 2) Remove silencer, disconnect exhaust manifold 3) Disconnect accelerator and clutch cables 4) Disconnect starter feeds 5) Disconnect Apollo reservoir 6) Disconnect ECU 7) Disconnect O2 sensor, unplug 8) Unplug injector loom connector 9) Disconnect Oil Pressure sender wire 10) Disconnect speedo sender cable 11) Remove circlips, disconnect Drive shaft @ transmission end 12) Disconnect Water Temp sender on water rail 13) Disconnect earthing wire below throttle bodies 14) Disconnect radiator, drain from front of engine 15) Disconnect heater hoses, drain 16) Disconnect PCV lead 17) Drain radiator expansion tank and disconnect hoses 18) Disconnect metal pipe to bottom of expansion tank (that goes to hose @ top of radiator) 19) unclip loom cable ties anywhere attached to frame ?? 20) disconnect steering knuckle @ steering box in front ?? 21) disconnect steering shaft @ pedal box, remove shaft 22) Attach crane to engine to support weight 23) Disconnect engine & transmission mounts 24) hoist (via "dipping maneuver") engine / transmission out of car, put onto stand Once I've got the combined engine and transmission out of the car and on the bench the rest is pretty straightforward 1) remove bell housing 2) remove clutch cover 3) remove clutch centre plate, throwout bearing 4) replace 1-3 Voila, put it all in reverse order and put it back together.... ;-):):):) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racing Snake Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Take a load of digital pics as you take it apart Then you can make your own manual with torque settings etc Just take your time and enjoy Mad Hatter Racing - Feel The Duralight R Torque 😬 Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred_gustafsson Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Matt, I got an engine hoist that I don't need anymore (I hope). I'm based in London. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Easy job to do on your own. However, easier with help. Just take your time, and use some pipe cladding to protect the chassis etc. Label everything up when you disconnect it, and you can't go far wrong. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now