Fitting Apollo Tank - loads of new questions - UPDATED - more questions still

[jradley]

Hi,

 

Sometime over the next few weeks I hope to fit an apollo tank. Having read loads of threads here and seen some photos on the procedure I still have some unanswered questions which hopefully you can help with......here goes:

 

1) Mounting plate - I don't have a rivet gun, is there any other way I can attach it to the chassis rail (eg. self tappers ?) or should I see if I can borrow a rivet gun from someone ? Also, should the plate have some rubber foam to sit the tank on - mine didn't come with any but I do have some foam strip spare similar to that used on the nose cone where the bonnet sits and I could make something up - is this necessary ?

 

2) Is it a good or bad idea to use some Blue Hylomar on the faces of the doughty washers for the pipe fittings and drain plug ? Also, good or bad idea to smear some on the rubber gasket of the sandwich plate ?

 

3) What torque should the sandwich plate be tightened to ? Too loose and I guess it comes off when trying to remove the oil filter at next oil change, too tight and I strip the threads in the block

 

4) For thread locking the nut inside the cam cover, can I use Loctite "Lock N Seal" - ie this stuff ?

 

5) Lastly - when examining the tank I found some tiny swarf particles on the threads of the bosses where the pipe fittings go. I assume the tank is upstream of the filter (?) but even so is there any way to flush it safely before fitting ? Also there is some swarf on the magnet on the drain plug which is reluctant to come off - any ideas how to effectively wipe it off ? (Note the whole kit is brand new from Caterham BTW)

 

Any help and suggestions much appreciated.

 

Cheers,

 

John

 

Edited by - jradley on 22 Feb 2010 21:05:19

[oilyhands]

1) it can be attached with self tappers, but I would borrow a rivet gun.

2) Dowty washers shouldn't need any sealant. Nor should rubber gaskets

3) I dont know.. although as a guide, M6 - 10nm. M8 20nm

4) Yes

5) I would blow through the tank with compressed air, the tank is pre-filter so it isnt too big an issue but it would ne good to remoive as much swark as possible

 

Oily

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

1) I used a bit of 5mm thick closed cell foam rubber and cut a hole in the middle, having checked it wouldn't melt with the heat of the hot oil in the tank (80-90C)

 

3) very tight !! (but stop at least half a turn before it strips the thread !!). As you say, you don't want this unscrewing when you remove the oil filter. It is quite a large thread.

 

edit ... thanks for the reminder ... have just refitted the lagging round the Apollo tank for the next few months (same foam rubber material) ... helps keep the oil warm at this time of year.

 

 

 

Edited by - Stationary M25 Traveller on 5 Feb 2010 10:27:58

[Bricol]

As suggested on here ages nages ago, I fitted the fitting in the cam cover backwards - so the nut is on the outside. Then even if it does come loose, the hose fitting will hand onto it all and stop it falling into the cams.

 

If you use self-tappers, or indeed rivets, a smear of sealant around the holes before you drop the plate in place will help stop water ingress.

 

I fitted a cut down original shape Renault 5 gear change rubber bush into my home made plate to support the tape - simply a large rubber grommer to stop ali onto ali contract and wear. Check it every so often for grit etc trapped and possibly wearing away at the tank.

 

Bri

[Mick Day]

For the upper fitting use the big jubilee clip around the tank but use a smaller clip at right angles to hold it in place to the adjacent chassis rail. Use an old piece of rad hose to protect the powder coating.

 

Remember there is a small piece of engine block to file away as this can rub the oil hoses.

 

At oil change time it's not necessary to drain the tank as most will flow out when you remove the oil tank. Assuming you change your oil religiously the little bit that remains is insignificant compared to the volume (7 litres?) that is changed.

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

Do you mean "... when you remove the oil filter" ?

 

 

[jradley]

Hi,

 

Took a look at the job in hand tonight - it seems that the tank will foul the (silicone, if that makes any difference) top radiator coolant hose. Is that likely to cause any problem ? I can't see any other way of posittioning the hose (or tank) to avoid it ????

 

Also, I have seen talk about the £60 worth of non return valve for the top braided hose to the cam cover - is this thought to be necessary or surplus to need - never could find a definitive opinion on that one.

 

Cheers,

 

John

 

[alan7]

Tank & Top Hose, in all the installations I've seen the top hose invariably gets in the way but shouldn't cause any problem. Try pulling the tank away from the top hose by cable ties from the top union to the nearby cross member.

 

Fit a non return valve to aid start oil pressure. When I had an apollo without one the oil pressure took a couple of seconds to build up & register - even worse if the car had been stood for a week or so. £60.00 is a good investment to get quick oil pressure at start up when it's most needed. I guess the alternative is always to crank the engine over while the immobiliser is on before properly firing it.

You would need from Think Automotive:

One CVF7-4 which is a ONE WAY VALVE FLAP -4JIC, and

two HETF7-4-3 which are the two fittings -4JIC FML STRAIGHT FOR -3TFE

 

Edited to say don't forget to change your alternator belt BEFORE you feed one of the oil pipes through it.

 

How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH

 

Edited by - alan7 on 23 Feb 2010 01:27:13

[jradley]

Thanks Alan - I think I'll get the valve.

 

Re the ThinkAuto parts list, I've seen mention of a FBM2099 ALLOY BULKHEAD NUT -4JIC whatever that is ?

 

I figure what the valve is, but any chance you could explain what the other parts are and how they are used in conjunction with the hose & fitting that goes through the cam lid. That would really help a lot if you can.

 

Cheers,

 

John

[Mick Day]

Do you mean "... when you remove the oil filter" ?

er.... yes...

[alan7]

The FBM2099 ALLOY BULKHEAD NUT -4JIC option is slighly cheaper as it means you can use the original cam cover to apollo tank breather pipe. In which case you would need:

MFA7-3-4 ALI M/F ST -3JIC X -4JIC

HETF97-3 -3JIC 90o FITTING FOR -3TFE

CVF7 ONE WAY VALVE FLAP -4JIC

 

Have a look here

 

 

 

How do you get the dead flies off your teeth....... 😬 R5AAH

[jradley]

Just a quick folowup to say many thanks for all the hints and tips.

 

I got the non return valve sorted by speaking to Matthew at ThinkAuto and he made up a custom braided hose with the valve in-line. Not cheap but an easy solution.

 

Now I just got to fit it all :)

 

Cheers,

 

John

[Colin Heseltine]

Alan7 mentioned fitting a new alternator belt before you fite the oil pipes through it. I would do that but also get a second one and also thread the pipes through it, but then tyrap it out of the way. That way if you have a failure when out on the road you can cut the tyraps and quickly fit it without having to remove all the Apollo piping.

 

have fun,

 

Colin

[jradley]

I have a spare alternator belt so may just do that. But, I didn't thinkit is too much hassle anyway - the big pipes don't have to come off - simply undo the top braided hose, take off the jubilee clip (or cable ties) holding the tank and lift it off its bottom plate and slip the belt underneath - voila, job done.

 

I'll see what it looks like in practice though.

 

Cheers,

 

John