MartinH Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Hi All, My R300SV build is progressing and next weekend I will be attempting to get the engine in. I have already done front and rear suspension so have the option to either put the engine in while on its stands or on its wheels. Can anyone offer any pros and cons for doing it different ways? At the Penn Sevens meet yesterday I heard that it can be useful to chock up the front wheels while leaving the back up high on the stands - in order to get a good angle of attack - as it were. Does anyone have any photos or even video of their engine going in? Cheers, Martin Duratec R300 SV build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 A few pictures here from when I built mine. I did it on it's wheels but wouldn't recommend that - subsequently I have always done this on stands which I find easier. The theory of getting the back up higher does make sense but I've not tried it myself. Solent Se7ens Web! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Can anyone offer any pros and cons for doing it different ways? Doing it with stands is easy . . on wheels sucks(as Grubbster said) I heard that it can be useful to chock up the front wheels while leaving the back up high on the stands - in order to get a good angle of attack - as it were. So the back end a lot higher than the front . . .Maybe I'm missing something, but that's got to be the worst possible thing you can do. Getting the engine onto the gearbox can be a sod - the last thing you want is it falling straight off again. IMO, you want the car up high (mainly for access to the underside but it also saves you from back ache) and level. Use 3 equal length stands - 2 at the rear, one at the front . . .just like Caterham do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverSedlacek Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I've always had the car on axle stands, but that's only because the legs on my engine crane don't clear the car. It mostly depends on the working space in your garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinH Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Thanks Guys. I will probaby go for it on the stands then. I'll let y'all know how I get on next week. Cheers, M Duratec R300 SV build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Deffo on stands, it's useful to be able to get at stuff from underneath as well as on top. I recommend getting a load leveller to go with the crane (available from machine mart for about £30. It means you can angle the engine as required while you have it on the crane, and makes the job really easy. back here because I want to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiddy1 Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 I always do mine on wheels as I winch the engine from a fixed beam in the garage roof, just lift it high enough and slip the car in underneath, easy regards Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevsta Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 As you have the gearbox attached then I can see why the ar5e end high approach might be useful. I'd be tempted to try this but with it all on stands, just with the rear higher. Make sure you have AT LEAST two people there to help....be such a shame to damage that lovely paintwork (good choice btw). I have always done mine on stands, but never tried the rear higher approach, I've just struggled with tipping it instead! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beverlonian Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Martin, I'll second the load leveller from Machine Mart. If you can make a job easy for a few pounds then do it. here SV in Aztec Orange 'n' Black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 I whip mine out and put it back in single handedly (if you see what I mean... 😬) with a load leveler. Simple and effective, and it allows me to move the car under the load, instead of moving the load over the car -- an engine & gearbox does tend to swing about if you push the crane. Spot of advice, having spotted Beverlonian's piccies (no criticism, B, just having done it a few times it's worth noting); (1)put the load leveler handle to the outside of the crane, not the inside, as you can get into situations where the handle gets blocked by the crane piston if you have the arm on a short setting. (2) use a rope to keep the nose of the gearbox square, as with some levelers, depending on how they're hooked onto the hoist, tend to turn the engine at 90 degrees to the direction the engine should be pointing. The rope lets you do the hoistie pumping and releasing stuff while keeping it in a line. (3)mark it with a felt pen as to which way you wind to make one end go up and down. Saves lots of winding in the wrong direction (4)use straps through eye lifts. The chain is generally the cheapest carp the manufacturer can find. OK for straight line loads, but the chain links are under a considerable twist strain if used through an eye lift, and they may bend or even part. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 I have always done it with the car on the wheels as I find it easier to inch the car forward. The car can just be move a little bit. When you move the crane it tends to jerk and then you get a swinging mass on the end! Each to their own. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverSedlacek Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 It's a good point about that most engine cranes are hard to inch along smoothly. I've got a tiled floor, so it's not much of a problem, but rough concrete may be a different matter. As for the "raise the ar5e" idea, I think it's more trouble than it's worth. The only real benefit is that the gearbox oil doesn't run out of the end of the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezky Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 I put my engine in when it was sitting on its wheels. I have been told ( and saw for myself ) by 7 workshop, it was easier to do it with the rear of the car jacked up, then you gradually fed the engine/gearbox in whilst lowering the car. When I recently replaced the gearbox in my car, I removed the engine + gearbox - lifting it out at an angle on a engine crane - and deposited the gearbox oil all in the tunnel and garage floor On refitting I used the car jacked up approach and found it a bit easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racing Snake Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Flip a coin Martin and go for it Just fill up the g/box after Mad Hatter Racing - Feel The Duralight R Torque 😬 Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Martin, I went for stands plus a load leveller. If it helps, have a look at some of my build pics here. JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinH Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 Thanks John. Sounds good. Carl, does your lovely engine crane come with one of these load leveler gizmos? Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisHawkins Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 If you need a load leveler you can borrow mine Chris K93 AMJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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