Petrolhead Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 The bolt the goes from above the shocker into the boss of the roll bar is seized It has a thin head on it and I just can’t get a good grip on it Any idea how to get it out. The other side came out fine and I can only assume the numpty who tightened it was over zealous My site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 These can be horribly corroded ☹️. Make sure the area is soaked for a good period of time with release oil eg WD40 and use a good quality hexagonal socket. Take care to have it square on the bolt, as you say the head is thin. I carefully used a an extended bar to undo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Chan Posted January 23, 2010 Area Representative Share Posted January 23, 2010 Hi PH, To make things easy and to put a lot of upwards force on the socket and minimise bolt damage, I used a trolley jack with a piece of wood to push the socket home, leant on the back of the car to stop the chassis lifting and then you can easily turn the socket wrench with minimal effort. HTH Nick ----- Back in a BEC! - but done alright in Class 1... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted January 23, 2010 Author Share Posted January 23, 2010 Cheers guys for the quick responce. The problem is that the bolt was so tight that it is mashed into the metal slightly giving less head to work with. Drastic measure next will to drill the head off, assuming I can get a drill in ----- My site----- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 Often a standard socket 'tube' doesn't have a truly flat face, the edge can be a bit radiused, so if you can either turn or grind or file the face flat you might get a bit more useful socket depth onto the bolt head. Nick's jacking idea will help to ensure that the socket is square on the bolt head. Otherwise, taking the wing off will help with access. There's a small riveted panel that can be removed that exposes the rear ARB fixings but I can't remember whether this gets you any closer to the bolt head. Best of luck. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted January 23, 2010 Author Share Posted January 23, 2010 My thoughts are drilling the head off Is the panel your refering to, Paul, inside the boot? ----- My site----- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 PlusGas is better than WD40 for releasing seized bolts. edit: if you can't turn it with a socket, can you get enough access to use a cold chisel and hammer to try and rotate the head. I had to resort to this with one of the thin-headed bolts on a rear brake disc. Edited by - Stationary M25 Traveller on 23 Jan 2010 15:36:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted January 23, 2010 Author Share Posted January 23, 2010 Will give that a try tomorrow or Monday, what you like with a hammer and chisel My site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 I'll put it in the toolbox in the van !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 Try a six point socket, with the nose ground down as suggested Give it a good soak in +gas, a good blow with a hammer and then try and undo it. If you have an air impact wrench, this may be the tool of choice for this job. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 ...and we haven't even got to the ratchet-strap bit yet! Hope you get it out soon Peter. 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7s Ecosse™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 I remember these being a complete PITA on a brand new car, so don't envy you having to work on a rusty one. As others have said, a six-point socket with a flat face is your best bet. Good luck See some pictures of the build here. 17000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 The panel I was referring to is accessible with the wing off but, as I said, I'm not sure it gets you to the bolt head. There's another curved panel in the boot that you might be able to remove that may also get you closer. If you're going to have to drill it out or chisel the top off you'd better be able to see what you're doing. I'd certainly try the 6 point flat faced socket before getting more drastic. You might also try some heat on the bottom of the roll cage where the bolt goes in. Hot air gun rather than flame given the proximity of the tank 😳. Might damage the powder coat though if it gets too hot. Sustained heat can sometimes do the trick so long as the thread's not crossed (unlikely). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted January 24, 2010 Area Representative Share Posted January 24, 2010 I've worked on 3 factory built cars that have never had these bolts in - I know why. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 PH, I have a tap for clearing the threads should you need it - I'm in Leicester. Paul - I ended up getting another tall cage as even with a lowered floor I was too close to the std height cage. Used a lot of copper slip on assembly! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 All my other cars have never had the bolts fitted including the CSR that rolled The current bar is a tall one and may be up for sale if I decide to stick with the full cage ----- My site----- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6speedmanual Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Peter When you've tried all the above (and I hope they resolve it) the last resort is to drill the head off with a big drill bit. Needs to be at least as big as the bolt diamter 5/16" and bigger, say 10mm or 12mm is better. Once the cage is off you may find you still can't get the tread out of the boss. You can get a new boss made on a lathe. Copy the dimensions and get a 1/4" chamfer put on the end of it to go to the cage. Drill and tap 5/16UNF (IIRC). The chamfer is the V groove to take weld. Saw the old boss off flush with the spreader plate at the foot of the cage. MIG weld the new boss on in the same position as old one. Clean up with wire brush/ file. Repaint with Hammerite Smooth Satin black (excellent match to powdercoat). You will find the heat from the welding hardly even touches the powdercoat visible at the topside of the bar so cosmetically this paint repair is good. It's the plate which peels most but they are quite often rusty anyway. In extremis, if fussy, the whole bar could be re-powder coated. Reassemble with loads of Waxoyl. I don't think leaving this bolt out is a very good idea if you think about what's holding the bar to the structure of the saceframe. Good luck Peter BRAWNGP green SUPERLIGHT FCITW 2009 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Ian, I had your old tall cage blasted and powder coated and feel a lot safer with it fitted, especially when I speared off into the trees at Saint Goueno last year. It gives extra protection from tree branches etc as well as from a roll over. With the lowered floor my helmet top is the requisite 50mm below the roll cage. A bit of a struggle for an old bloke to get in and out though. When I bought my FIA roll over bar from CC it came without the bolts and I had to ask for them. They're high tensile so I doubt chiselling is an option. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 He Peter, thats what I was going do if all else fails My site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 now sorted, the ground off socket worked 😬 Cheers for the help guys My site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Hurrah !! Don't need to bring my big hammer then ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 No, sorry, I did go out the B&Q and bough a large rubber mallet but no need for that either ----- My site----- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 Ok more help reqd It seems the bolts for the tall bar are much smaller than the ones needed for the SLR cage. THis would explain why the holes seemed too big So what size bolts do I need for the SLR cage? ----- My site----- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 Are these the ones I need here ----- My site----- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 They look correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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