jonboylaw Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Has anyone made their scuttle "removable" by using bighead bolts (or what ever they are called) instead of a couple of Rivets? If so, how/where did you fix them and what size domehead bolt? Any diagrams? Cheers. Jonathan ----------------------------------- This rebuild has started :) 92 Supersprint, Ford LSD LA, RK AX Crossflow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 Confused. I thought all Seven scuttles were removable once the side mounting nuts and U channel plus the bolts either side of the steering column were removed (subject to the firewall not having been sealed with silicone/mastic). I can remove mine in about 15 minutes from walking into the garage. Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends Puddle Pet Care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 There is usually a large head rivet at the bottom rear edge of the scuttle, by the sills, or at least there was on my car when I took it appart. Jonathan ----------------------------------- This rebuild has started :) 92 Supersprint, Ford LSD LA, RK AX Crossflow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LesG Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 I drilled out all those rivets along the u-channel edge, and replaced them with rivnuts (fancy!), then used M5 (I think) pozi-head bolts. The firewall stays in place, but the top section comes off giving access to all those lovely wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonycaterham Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Hi, I did exactly the same as LesG and as I only have an aero screen and no wipers or anything else to to conternt with the scuttle panel can be removed in 5 minutes. L7 EVL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted January 22, 2010 Author Share Posted January 22, 2010 Les/Tony, Can you please send me a photo? The Rivet I am on about can just be seen in this photo here. It is right by the door sill at the rear of the scuttle.. I want to replace this with a bolt so I do not have to drill the rivet out if I swap scuttles from Aero to Windcreen.. Jonathan ----------------------------------- This rebuild has started :) 92 Supersprint, Ford LSD LA, RK AX Crossflow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul jacobs Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 And, on a related topic, how do you stop the water coming in if you have a removable scuttle, assuming it hasn't been sealed across the bulkhead? Paul J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Paul, I don't I just have drain holes in the floor 😬 Though to be honest it's rare I find any water getting into the footwell above and if the weather's that bad I've got waterproof trousers on anyway. Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends Puddle Pet Care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Paul generally it rains more often than I have to take the scuttle off, so it gets sealant here is my Duratec R .... C7 TOP Taffia AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted January 23, 2010 Leadership Team Share Posted January 23, 2010 Hi Jonathan I did exactly the same on ny 91 XFlow a few years ago. The conversion to rivnuts makes a great difference when you want to do work under the scuttle and it is something I am very glad I did. I believe the the "large" rivets that you are talking about on either side do not exist on the more recent chassis. I drilled this out and fitted rivnuts and then large (tarty anodised!) wide, flat head bolts (I'm sure there is a proper name for them) which I got from the Demon Tweeks catalogue. I'll admit that I was worried at the size of hole that it took in the chassis (through a braze where three chassis members meet) in case it weakened the chassis. However, I ran the car like that for about three years of sprints and trackdays without any problem. I then had the car stripped right back by Arch and the holes welded up as the newer type bodywork does without any rivets at this point. All the best - Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 Edited by - Englishmaninwales on 23 Jan 2010 19:46:01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 Thanks Michael, That is exactly what I want to do. I have had a good look today as I was measuring up and drilling holes in the skin for fitting a cage. Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK FLASH Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 Also one of the upgrades for next winter. Now keep on driving. Jack Flash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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