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Another broken part on K2RUM


EFA

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Look, its quite simple Arnie. Your poor overstressed car obviously needs a rest from all that power.

 

What you need to do is a short-term swap for something with a little less grunt, say a 1.6 K-series supersport with a 5-speed box. I'm on holiday all this week so I can pop down to yours whenever its convenient and let you borrow my engine and gearbox in exchange for yours. 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬

 

Only for a short while of course, a year or two would be enough. *wink*

 

Nick

P8MRA - The green one with red wings

 

Edited by - Nick Woods on 11 Aug 2002 22:59:10

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mmmm, maybe this car stuff is too risky after all.... costing me a fortune in manicure sessions! *thumbup*

 

Arnie, have you a set of left hand thread removers (like a set of taps (not the water kind!)). A small hole to get them a start and they get most bolts out..

 

Phil Waters

Zetec is in and running *wink*

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Arnie, you´re nuts ! *wink*

 

A friend of mine is working in space-craft engineering, maybe he could supply you with some decent bolts to keep K2RUM together, titanium-multi-super-high-grade-mars-tested-carbon-stuff or similiar.... *idea*

 

Good luck at Curborough though ! *thumbup*

 

Marius

 

 

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Arnie,

if you'd follow my route 3.4lV6 chevrolet, Borg Warner T5 tranny, and GM 7.5" 10bolt rear end you too would put out 300+ horsepower and never break a thing!

Greetings from Louisiana and good luck at Curborough!

 

Just before you all start the damn Yank thing......

 

1. I live in the South so would be a southerner,

2. Was born and raised in the UK and my parents live in Upper Hartfield... are we neighbours!

 

Best wishes,

Joe

 

 

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Arnie, did you check the bolt's regularly for thightness a M12 in 12.9 grade is strong enough remember that some cossie's had far more power than your VX also i think that the support for the diff is to small ( only at the center of the chassis ) it would be better to have some extra supports going to the outsides of the chassis x bracing or............

have a decent chassis that is a 5 link live axle 😬

 

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Ellie,

 

The cossie uses a different differentail and like the Sierra (and probably Westfooled, Blatman) it uses 5 bolts to hold it in. The bolts were last checked about 1 year ago, but the broken one appears to have been so for some time!

 

Steve,

 

DIY tools aren't required. Phil at RRT says he can probably get it out, and if he can't he'll just swap the casing.

 

Dave J,

 

My cars only got 230bhp....... at the wheels......

 

Dave E,

 

Good old Elan rubber doughnuts in the prop?

 

Peter C,

 

They are one of the few remaining original parts!

 

Joe,

 

Upper Hartfield like Pooh Bear???

 

And yes of course I'll win at Curborough. Secret weapon taking shape!

 

 

Phil, Try doing a search from "balck thumbnail" on the web and see what you get!!! I'm shocked!

 

Fat Arn

Visit the K2 RUM site

See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website here

 

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Yes Arnie in 100 acre wood!

 

Well I am in Baton Rouge Louisiana but the parental domicile (and my old Dutton B type) are there.

Building an all american 7 here with the aforementioned running gear.

 

Can we post pics?

 

Personally K2 is fab baby and the naysayers never appreciate the amount of thought and effort that goes into her, least the expense.

 

go get um at Curborough, and keep the rears " smokin"

 

Regards

Joe

 

 

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They are known as resilient props I think - recommended in sequential/dog box applications. I drove a Mk2 Escort with a Quaife sequential and found the change to be quite harsh on the hand and the axle at times. Maybe just a coincidence that this has happened around the same time as using the sequential box of course.
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I think that some/all motorbikes have a springy sprocket that gives a controlled amount of give to ease some of the shockloads through the transmition. I understand that some of the BEC*s removed this and was one reason for the engines dieing.

I stand to be corrected by someone with more experience of this than me.

 

Nick

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DohNut,

The springy thing is a cush-drive. A set of rubber type buffers interspersed between the drive sprocket and wheel center. Sadly most of the 140+ hp bikes tend to destroy them - Kawasaki especially. I would imagine that the sprockets and transmission components would suffer but not the engine.

As for the propshaft the correct term is RUT or 'Rutted', yes seriously. The RUT stands for Rubber Up Tube (that was a shock wasn't it)? They DO NOT work on high torque applications and are poor where refinement is required, There is a tendancy to shear, whip and run out of balance. Now, where a Se7en is concerned the refinement issue is not a consideration - as for the shear? Well who can say?

 

Steve B

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