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slicks


mecacy

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I know of a good set, not mine. Buyer wants £200.00. They were new in October 2009 and have done about 40 laps (max) around Lydden, so very fresh.

 

A11 compound, soft circuit race. Fronts are 7X20X13 and rears are 8.2X22X13

 

Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset?

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Firstly, it's agood idea to know a bit more about your car - type/setup/power/dry-sump or Apollo..

With a basic 120bhp car, 6-inch wide wheels with 6 or 7-inch slicks all round should be fine.

 

With more power, you benefit from wider slicks at the back.

 

New slicks will give ultimate grip, but they are expensive. Used are fine for most purposes, but will have lost their 'edge' after a couple of heat cycles.

 

Ian (Pendennis) is a good chap and knows what he's talking about, so listen to what he says too *thumbup*

 

You can get used slicks online from about £25 each for recent ones. However, Steve Garner's ones sound like they haven't had a great deal of use. Lydden is a small track. Saying that, I think I'd trash a set of tyres (especially soft ones) in 40 laps, but if it was a sprint, that's a different matter.

BTW - Steve's set for £200 is just tyres, i imagine.

 

blatmail me if you want more details of my wheels..

 

Cheers - Simon

 

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Old slicks that have done too many heat cycles are generally a waste of money and don't perform as good as fresh list 1b's. It's not easy to the naked eye identifying a shagged slick, but if they have a blue tint too them they have overheated. If you can't push your finger nail into them, their probably knackered. But, I have had slicks that seem okay to the eye, they were not blue and you could put your finger nail in, on track they were just plain useless. So, it is not easy to identify a good or bad slick. As a user of new slicks for many years they are at their optimum for no more than two heat cycles. But, they do then perform pretty damn well for further heat cycles, maybe 5 maybe more, there's no rule but when they go off they are rubbish. However, tyre softener does work and brings them back okay. I regard a heat cycle as 1 day of use.

 

For a 20 minute track Caterham A11 or A53 compound would be best, A53 being slightly softer than the A11, though there is not much in it. The harder compound such as A37 in my experience do not ever perform like the A11 or A53.

 

I don't believe there is a rule regarding tyre widths, if you can get an 8.2 wide tyre hot enough with 120bhp, then they are right for you. If you can't then your not trying hard enough, possibly then they are not right for you or they are clapped out.

 

Radials offer more contact patch to the ground than Crossply's, although I believe Crossply's heat up quicker. Crossply slicks are lighter than a Radial.

 

All tyres whether Crossply or Radial generate heat from laterial and longitudial movement. One benefits more than the other, radials and crossply are constructed in a different manner thus require different camber settings. Radial require more camber than Crossply. Static pressures need to be low to allow rise in pressure, thus allow increase in temperature. Too high a static pressure restricts temperature rise.

 

They are all directional.

 

Tyre profile is important, generally fronts need stiffer side walls than rears so lower the middle number means less laterial movement.

 

Steve's tyres have probably done 30 laps if he's honest and two heat cycles. His car is lawn mower powered thus lower torque than a CEC and to the eye they will look like new. He is only selling as our racing class have decided not to use slicks in 2010, but instead we all go list 1b's. Otherwise they would not be for sale.

I think they are 7.2X20X13 and 8X22X13.

 

Cheers

Ian

 

 

Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset?

 

Edited by - Pendennis on 8 Dec 2009 21:14:52

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