Team Escargot Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 K series dry sump (CC) pan sealing to block CC suggests using silicone sealant around the sump and no gasket. I am concerned that residual sealant will get into the sump / oil galleries with damaging effect (I have seen this before) Oily suggest using Loctite 574 as this does not go ‘solid’ outside of the sealed area (only goes off when air removed e.g. in metal to metal contact area). Although 574 is relatively expensive (about £17 for 50ml) the advantages would seem to outweigh this. Any experiences? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 I use a DIY 'cut down' version of the wet sump gasket, without any sealant. works fine, but needs cutting carefully with snips. I'd be inclined to steer clear of silicone sealant for the reasons you state. Im sure Dave's advice about 574 is sound! Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 I use Loctite 574 and it works well Mark D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Williams Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 574 *thumbup* Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 I also use a cut down wet sump gasket and have done for the last 5 yrs with no issues, in fact I'm still using the original one! plus i remove the sump pan every oil change. I tried 574 and got leaks plus its a pain in the 🙆🏻 to get the dried stuff off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 I used a VAG spec RTV - yes this can block oilways but only if you put too much on! Too young to be old ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.russell Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 i have just used 574, it didnt leak on the dyno so fingers crossed 😬 Kevin R black(but sometimes orange)-ali HPC here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 574 😬 jj MTM , N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 Back to the top! My DS sump has, I think, a slight leak at the rear. I have a drip appearing on the interface of the sump/ bellhousing. I doubt its the rear crank seal as the flywheel appears dry and the clutch doesn't slip. I sealed the sump with 574 when I built the engine, so Im not too worried about having drop it off & reseal it, but Im interested in whether an adapted wet sump gasket will be better The price of a wet sump gasket on CC website is £45!!! I dont to pay that for a gasket, especially if a significant amount of it was going to be trimmed. Would a non Caterham, standard Rover sump gasket for a steel sump be suitable? The Rover engine manual I have says to use a gasket for the pressed steel sump, but use sealant for the alloy sump. A standard Rover gasket will only cost a few quid, so if suitable, it an attractive option over the messier and possibly not as effective sealant option. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Escargot Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 574 worked well for me - dont bother with anything else. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 You don't need a bead of sealant - a thin smear only. You're joining two machined surfaces that shouldn't have any real gaps to seal. If it squeezes out on the outside where you can see it, you can be sure it's squeezed out on the inside where you can't too. I've used various Loctites (even tho' they have still to get back to me over the results of a second interview in 1992 . . ) and I've always wondered that while they don't necessarily go off until air is exluded . . they still aren't lubricants . . . and what happens when they are in the oil . . . where there is no air . . . Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 Is the sealer oil soluble in aerobic conditions? DVA has recommended it so it must be OK! The volume of surplus sealer on the inside of the engine would be a tiny %-age of a 5litre oil capicity, so unless it congeals I cant see it would be a problem for a couple of thousand miles before the oil was changed again prior to winter hibernation. I wont be doing the job for a couple of weeks, but I hope to do it before Le Mans Classic in July. If this doesnt sort the leak out, at least its another potenial source eliminated. If not, the gearbox is the next suspect, but that will definately have to wait until winter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Having removed it all and resealed it at the weekend, its now dripping more oil out than it was before Previously, I had drips from the longer 60mm M8 bolts at the bottom rear of the sumps; now I have less dripping from there, but additional drips forming on the front 3 bolts on the LHS of the sump. As such, it looks like Ill be taking it off again this week. After I filled it will oil and left it over night, I found a drip of oily sealant on the card under the engine, and now its leaking from there. Its like the oil pushed out the still soft/ fluid sealer in this area. I wonder if I need to use a gasket. Toy cars can be very frustrating at times. I need to get it sorted for Le Mans in a couple of weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Did you see this thread this week ? May be of interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 This is also a good thread here Ill give the Loctite one more go, then Ill try a gasket or alternative sealer for bigger gaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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