combine Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 John , what sort of manifold is on your vx , standard or an SBD built one . I'm going to take my vx to BTB exhausts tomorrow to get a special manifold made and silencer , he has made them for SBD too . May be a bit expensive but he's done all the development already . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bio Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 Running with the standard Caterham four to one race exhaust and have looked at BTB. They look like a work of art but a little expensive at the moment ☹️ What exhaust are you running now 🤔 John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.russell Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 had mine done here to measurements from Paul Exon here Kevin R black(but sometimes orange)-ali HPC here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
combine Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Kevin , John , my head was ported and rebuilt with 450 cams at Paul Exon in Sept . Looking forward to seeing/driving the BTB manifold & silencered vx when its done next weekend ! Its so much fun buying early xmas presses for ' my preccious ' !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 On the numerous occasions that I've removed my Vx engine, I've always taken the gearbox out with it in one lump. The disadvantage is that the tilted gearbox always spills oil out of the back until I can get under the car and insert the plastic bung over the output shaft splines. Refitting can be a pain when getting the back end in over the rear gearbox mounting plate. With the engine separated from the bellhousing, can it be slid forward and lifted straight out or does the rear gearbox mount still have to be undone so that the box can be tilted to allow the front of the engine to clear the upper chassis rails? Obviously alternator, engine mounts etc will have been removed first. Similarly, how easy was it to refit, assuming that the clutch centre plate(s) are properly aligned? With all the dry sump gubbins attached I suspect it may be easier to remove the box as well and just dive underneath as quickly as possible. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 I always split the engine from the box. To answer your question: Yes you can lift the engine out without undoing gearbox mounts (and this on a chassis with non removable engine bay diagonals). It needs a little technique however. The engine (once it has been moved forward off the gearbox input shaft) needs to be tilted to the rear at about 40 degrees, lifted and moved forward at the same time in order to clear the diagonals. I have a remote oil filter arrangement so I do not have a filter fitted during this lift (I seem to remember that this made life slightly easier ....). I should say that my engine is suspended using wire rope round a small pulley so this makes the tilting quite easy. When re fitting the engine it is worth spending a little time eyeing up the bellhousing and block faces to make sure they are correctly aligned and if difficulty with input shaft engagement is experienced adjust again. I use a length of wood between the lower chassis diagonals and the dry sump pulley to gently ease everything into placeif needed (don't bend the pulley flanges) . Edited by - ECR on 1 Dec 2009 14:42:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markiebabes Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 John how goes it 🤔 All the bits back on now I wonder if you can retro fit removable diagonals 🤔 (makes getting engine in/out so easy) 😬 😬 Mark 7 Webshots here R400 😬 pure fun ( more so with Aero fitted ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Thanks Roger. My diagonals come out so its a bit easier and I have a spreader bar for the crane so I think I'll give it a go this time. Point noted re the pullet flanges 😳 Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 I've turned up a short length of bar to locate in the hole in the dry sump pulley and I use this to lever against. As I am sure you realise the object is to gently locate things not try to force mismatched splines together :) Mick Day (I think) reminded me that the easiest way to seperate engine and box (once the bolts are removed) is to press on the clutch pedal. So simple ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Pressing the clutch pedal didn't work for us at the weekend! back here because I want to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Get a stronger clutch 😬 I have to agree that it doesn't work for me on occasions but it still seems to make seperation easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Pressing the clutch to separate is a good wheeze, I'll give that a go when the time comes, hopefully during the next week. I take it you mean the pulley on the crankshaft rather than the pump Roger. I guess a suitable piece of wood inserted in the same hole would do the same thing. I learnt a very long time ago that engine and gearbox will normally either go together easily if the clutch is aligned, or not at all. Brute force rarely helps but patience does. Many moons ago, long before you could buy cranes as cheaply as now, we used to remove and replace engines with two of us using ropes under the engine. All you could do was wiggle the engine until the input shaft went in to the clutch plate. And I wonder why I've got a bad back 😬 Engine coming out for balancing and replacing the timing wheel with an SBD external version. Having seen the horror story of the one that destroyed itself earlier this year I feel this is an essential upgrade. Also considering going up in inlet valve size by a couple of mm. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.russell Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 new silencer finished and on the car now here diameter 175mm and 700mm long, it has been packed with three sheets of Acoustafil loosely, not sure how loud it will be,i now have a few more horses 😬 but will be louder than my double silencer here that was 89bd at 5000rpm @ cadwell in september. hoping it will be quiet enough, the rear exit was getting on the ground a bit 😬 Kevin R black(but sometimes orange)-ali HPC here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.russell Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 can recommend Lance at OJZ near Newark here for exhaust manifold, he even gave me a very enlightening pulse welding lesson when i picked up the manifold, top class fabrication work , he can also supply components and Acoustafil packing. Kevin R black(but sometimes orange)-ali HPC here Edited by - k.russell on 7 Dec 2009 19:32:59 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bio Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 Now back in, throttle bodies balanced and throttle pot calibrated. Went for a gentle 20 mile run before the snow arrived and noticed some pinking and a slight hesitation at 3500-4000 rpm under medium to light load and did not push any harder Will try super unleaded at next fill and put some more miles on to see if the pinking goes. Thinking about a mod to the caterham 4 to 1 to increase exhaust flow and mapping if required in the new year. Thanks to Mark and Carl for all their help *thumbup* John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 John, it would definitely pay you to have it mapped if there's any hint of pinking. Is the map a known quantity? I forget whether you bought the ECU new with a map or 2nd hand. If its a new map from SBD to go with your set up I'd check the TP setting to make sure the ignition isn't too far advanced for the throttle opening. SBD describe their maps as rich and retarded (or maybe it was their customers they're talking about) so I would have expected it to be ok with 95 octane fuel. Might be worth a chat with Steve B if you can get him to the phone. Good to hear that its up and running. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bio Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 Hi Paul Throttle pot voltage is a little lower than book value so will reset. Will try to speak to SBD today. Thanks John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 John, if the voltage is on the low side then its 'safe' in that the ignition advance will come in later as you open the throttle. Unless its way out (>+ - 10mV off) I'd leave it alone. Worth a call to SBD to see what octane fuel its mapped for. If you have Easimap s/w have a look at the ECU throttle index map and you'll see how the throttle sites change with voltage. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bio Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 The throttle pot voltage was 0.34v at idle now reset to 0.37v so not a mile out. SBD say that the map is based on super unleaded and the slight hesitation I have at 35000 rpm may be due to the shorter trumpets (40mm not 90mm) and the restriction of the caterham 4 to 1 race exhaust. Will go out for a run when weather allows John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Many moons ago, long before you could buy cranes as cheaply as now, we used to remove and replace engines with two of us using ropes under the engine.Le-Sept 2003 showed how easy it is to remove a Vx engine: in the hotel car-park! 2 scaffold poles, some rope & willing volunteers to lift it out. Faulty gearbox replaced (support crew had a spare) & engine back in. It was so easy they decided to do it again the following day to replace the clutch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 slight hesitation I have at 35000 rpm 😳 😳 Careful with those revs in the cold and damp John !!!! Thirty five thousand !!! Did you put a turbine in there ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markiebabes Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 John will try and get you out next week Mark 7 Webshots here R400 😬 pure fun ( more so with Aero fitted ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bio Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 Ian ....Oops, just a little over the running in limit 😳 Mark...Will have to get out soon before the next batch of snow John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markiebabes Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Yeah not looking good for the next couple of weeks ☹️ Mark 7 Webshots here R400 😬 pure fun ( more so with Aero fitted ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bio Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 Now running on super unleaded and no hint of pinking but now need to decide if the standard caterham exhaust system (4-1 Race) will be ok for 200 ish bhp before SBD look at the map. Will the collector goeing into a 5 inch can via a 2 inch pipe loose too much power 🤔 John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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