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I have removable diagonals so should be a little easier.

Has anyone fitted the SBD throttle bodies and engine loom ?

1...Does the small pipe from the top of the expansion tank go to the new fitting on the taper throtttle.

2...What wire feeds the Tacho on the car sub loom (VX standard injection) White and black stripe?

 

John

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John i have QED- Jenvey direct throttle bodies and there is a fitting on the forward body that connects tot he expansion tank, mine has a small restrictor in the pipe, check if you are removing and changing pipe. my loom was from QED cant remember having to connect anything to the tacho, sorry.

 

Kevin R

 

black(but sometimes orange)-ali HPC

here

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Well done John. Are you taking the gearbox out as well in one lump or splitting them?

 

If you have the welded vertical tube that supports the header tank, rather then the later removable bolt, cut it off and replace it with a long bolt. It makes it much easier to get the engine out and clear, especially if the gearbox is attached.

 

Tacho wire is black and white in the car loom.

 

Not sure about the hose but I think you're right. Do you have the SBD installation instructions. If not you can download them from here

 

Good to see a good old Vx engine thread going again - proper Caterham engine - although I think the Duratech is a worthy successor.

 

Best of luck and give me a shout if I can help

 

Paul

 

 

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now engine is out any recomendations for cleaning it down didnt really want to use the gunk - water method.

i have a few issues to sort - drysump gasket- is Loctite 574 a good choice of gasket material?

scavenge pump flanges, these are small taft flanges with two small bolts that hold the flanges against a rubber o ring, they have always leaked a little due to the design i beleive, anyone have any solutions.

 

Kevin R

 

black(but sometimes orange)-ali HPC

here

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Brake and clutch cleaner works well but buy the large cans rather than small spray cans as it gets a bit expensive otherwise. Brush paint the exposed surfaces of the block with black Hammerite smooth diluted 50/50 'ish with Hammerite thinners. A couple of coats looks great and last ages. All of the above in a well ventilated atmosphere of course - outside for preference. There are other colours and I guess red would look good too *wink*

 

574 will work well. Its designed for gearbox and engine rigid metal flange sealing.

 

A smear of oil or whatever the liquid being sealed against on the 'O' ring can help as they need lubricating so that they can move into position as they're being squeezed by the tightening. Otherwise they can stick and not settle properly. Also make sure that tightening is even all around for the same reason. Otherwise some flange sealant but I would keep it to just a smear and to the outside of the 'O' ring so that it doesn't ooze into the pump as its squeezed.

 

Paul

 

 

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Just had a nice hot bath *biggrin*...Yes Nigel it's getting cold out there evn with a fan heater ☹️

Paul and Kevin all going well just tunnel cover and gear lever etc to remove and I have a few days holiday at the end of the week so it should be out by then.

Kevin didn't you do well.

Now have to fork out more to buy the SBD loom and a new clutch center plate and CRB...is a new cover plate also required after 30K trouble free miles *confused*

 

John

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The Vx's really are a pleasure to work on 🥰 I've been pottering about tidying up in the garage this afternoon & since tea have drained the fluids, done the exhaust (easy) side & made a start on on the inlet side *smokin*

Feel a bit sorry for the other guys really *wink*

 

 

L7 FUN

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John,

Engine should be quite high spec with steel rods and forged pistons, the head is a cnc flowed item from ultimate performance, I am using old SBD hydraulic camshafts at the moment but will be going mechanical when I get a set of camshafts, any surgestions. The exhast is the standard race item but have increased the bore of the silencer to 2 1/4 "

Hopefully this will add up to 250 bhp.

Regards Brian

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Brian ...sounds a stonking engine 😬 😬 Wish i could go that far 😔

Try the usual people..SBD and and QED ....Going to SBD tommorow to collect more bits.Let me know how it goes.

Mark...Warm clothes in order but I will be keeping you busy *smile*

 

John *wavey* *wavey*

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All ready for tomorrow ....Every thing removed and unbolted *smile*

Looked a how the cam belt runs on the old non adjustable pulleys engine and it runs centrally,

but on the new engine fitted with verniers the belt runs towards the rear. The rear edge of the belt runs inline with the rear edge of the pulley so not central 😔

Is this a normal state with verniers and should it be safe?

 

John

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John

mine runs to the front of the pulleys for some reason. There must be a slight bias somewhere but its held in place by the raised rim on one of the idlers depending on which way its trying to go. I changed the idlers on mine because the bearings were getting a bit tired but it didn't make any difference to the belt run. I guess you're right and its the verniers that cause it. I've been running mine for years like it and it seems to be ok but I do change the belt every two years.

Good luck with the lift.

 

Paul

 

 

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