Geoff Wilcx Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Out looking at a few K Powered R500's....mostly track focus with occasional road blatting. *biggrin* What specific issues should I be looking for? 🙅🏻♂️ 🙅🏻♂️ I've had 6 speeds before so I know they rattle like a bag of olde spanners my main concern is Engine...are there any obvious indicators for one seconds from disaster.....or am I being too sensitive. 😔 My Winter '08 Upgrade was to a screaming DVA K05. www.geoffwilcoxphotography.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 There are a couple of schools of thought on the R500 engine... -fragile little barstewards, don't touch -I've used and abused mine for a million track days and still going strong. I'm a bit in the first camp. In 2001 (I think) there was the R500 engines go bang saga started by Richard Ince at the ring and with his race cars. Caterham eventually brought out the package of fixes. VDV (?) uprated mains, diddy apollo tank, ecu controlled fan, oil cooler. I think of those the main saviour was the new bearings. So if buying, you need to check that it is not pre-saga engine. That's pretty unlikely. Then you should check for a sensible and documented history of use versus refreshes. In terms of checking the health of a current engine, there is little that can be done that doesn't involve a strip, measure, rebuild. You can do a compression test and leakdown test and I don't think much more. So if it has low use post any previous rebuild, has the mods, has good compression and leakdown, you should be ok. Well as ok as you can be with an expensive engine made of cheese 😬 (2 R500 blow-ups) Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Williams Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I agree with Graham's analysis, although I've had mine for two seasons and it hasn't gone bang yet. Therefore I'm somewhere in the middle of the two 'schools of thought'. Compression and leakdown test is about all you can do, history is all important how many re-builds and at what intervals etc. As Graham says I doubt you'll find any that haven't had the package of fixes applied to them. I'd say they're capable of being reliable as long as they're looked after. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony1956 Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 writing as owner, not expert. indicators for one seconds from disaster.. You can't buy one without doing a leak down test. I've done 28,000 road miles in mine, except first 1800 by first owner on track only. Just refreshed this year at 24,500 miles or so. Travelled all over Europe year after year without rescue service - granted with trailer. It has the package of bits described above. Leak down test is the test (say Minister, forget compression test I forget why). Wondering what you will know by the time it's too late? 😬 here Now if I was using it on a track.... then they say refresh every 8,000 (23,000 if road, mine was literally falling to bits inside, but it did well for me.) All you need is a limitless budget (or skill and time). Have that then ok, great fun, rocket ship and fun to drive if you like a challenge (I do). I doubt there's any pre sagas left like Graham says. They are of course Sevens and Ks, so always something or other to deal with. Oh yes, check the dedion tube.... I could write a book and that's just as owner. Call me if you like. 01213144750 I love mine to bits (which she is frequently in). Just can't do track stuff, too painful. Anthony Edited by - anthonym on 6 Nov 2009 20:47:11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Wilcx Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Okay - tomorrows job will be building a LEAKDOWN TESTER and checking my current engine. What values should I be looking for on a R500. My Winter '08 Upgrade was to a screaming DVA K05. www.geoffwilcoxphotography.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony1956 Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 stretching my memory now.. 15% meant they recommended, and I had, a partial refresh, meaning the top end, for which I have the £1815 bill right here, blatmail me your email address if you want to see it. It details every part - inc £636 of labour and in 2005 I think they told me it was £40/hour. I also have a 2009 full refresh bill, also itemised to £6,300 and at £60/hour And don't forget the gearbox, apparently 2nd gear fuses itself to the main shaft, or something. I am sorry I am uncertain about the 15%, it is my best recollection (from 4 years ago) and I am hoping others will be along momentarily to validate or otherwise this figure. Also there is someone on here who has a leakdown tester (at least one); perhaps ask? As I understand (and have experienced) it the engine basically rattles itself to bits over time, the more rattles it has had, the closer it is to refresh. Rattles = vibration = engine revs. Higher range engine revs count for more than lower range, so running at 8,000 revs gets a higher coefficient of rattle than 4,000 revs. That's why race miles count three times road miles. 8,000 track miles or 24,000 road miles (maybe 23,000) = refresh (officially). I had a partial at about 18,000 I think and a full at 24,500 I hope all this helps in some way - as I wish someone had told me all this years ago. Really need to know mileage and type of use to put all the above in any kind of context for your circs. It's all guesswork until the engine is in bits. Frankly I'd buy a road use one; from someone like me who drives it gently; if track use, then just refreshed please. Reason I use Minister is there is no argument whatever about what was done and who by. Trouble is they charge £60/hour and then there's parts, lots of them. Apparently that's their advantage being MSA approved. etc I once asked Caterham what they would give me for my R500, after insulting me with a ridiculous figure, the salesman then said it depended on leak down test results. Anthony Edited by - anthonym on 7 Nov 2009 22:21:55 Edited by - anthonym on 7 Nov 2009 22:24:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Wilcx Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Anthony Thanks YHM. My Winter '08 Upgrade was to a screaming DVA K05. www.geoffwilcoxphotography.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony1956 Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 likewise Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 I would buy a 1996 roadsport or superlight , refresh the whole car and fit a 270 bhp Duratec here is my Duratec R .... C7 TOP Taffia AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racing Snake Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Geoff i have to agree 100% with Dave And i would have to say at 256 Bhp my Duratec is not stressed at all with plenty of options left for more power etc And dont forget the extra torque 😬 Tea Party Chairman Mad Hatter Racing - Feel The Duralight R Torque 😬 Carl Van Baars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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