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Winter jobs sanity check


Tony Martyr

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I have set myself the following tasks this winter. What have I missed?

Engine space.

Funds allowing I intend to replace the standard supersport air inlet system with TBs and replace the ECU with probably a GEMS unit that I can at least interrogate.

New increased alloy radiator and an adjustable fan switch (where do get one of these?)

While the inlet manifold is off and the radiator is off I’ll get the Apollo tank off and loosen the drain plug that has resisted all in-situ attempts to undo. While that is off I’ll replace the alternator belt and see if I can thread & tie a spare in place (a la Mini rally cars in 1960’s).

Also take the thermostat out (sod of a job with plenum in place) and check/replace.

What have I missed while I can get at it?

Rear suspension.

In spite of lubrication via leaking gear-box (now elegantly cured) 3 years of use has taken its toll.

Remove de-dion tube and crack detect then repaint and internally rust inhibit. While out, take cover off differential, check & record back-lash and refill.

Replace bushes of A frame etc. I assume these press out – correct?

Check brakes and joint boots.

What have I missed while I can get at it?

 

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I think my concerns are of a slightly different nature, but they do at least relate to the same season so I'll ask my question here...

 

I will be running may car as daily transport all winter (had it since February) - can anyone offer sensible, easy-to-find-time-for, advice on what I should do to minimise corrosion and other winter related wear and tear?

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Answering Tony:

 

GEMS aren't flavour of the month. Mick Day has continuing problems which are probably down to the mappings, but it has taken a catalogue of problems for GEMS to own up and supply the software and leads so that Mick can independently audit what's in the box. I've had a look. The software interface is almost as opaque as the operating manual - I can email you that to give you an idea. GEMS also have a history of problems with high rpm misfires which seem to be related to poor crank position sensing on the k-series. Every installation I have seen has shown attempts to improve the shielding on the crank sensor leads. If you are doing a throttle body conversion on a Supersport I have a pretty good map for the Emerald M3D.

 

Answering Glen:

 

Waxoyl. It's horrible stuff but it works. Get a coat on all the chassis tubes that are low down and also on the track arms, suspension bolts etc.g

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I would concur with Peter on the recommendation of Waxoyl. I recently bought some in a decent sized aerosol can, costing about £5.00. You get a small bore tube to direct the spray. Haven't used it on the Seven as mine is not often used in the Winter, but have used it before on many road cars and it is most effective and easy to use/remove.

 

Andrew

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Glen,

 

I've used my Seven through previous winters, and the one thing to ensure is that all the salt is washed off asap. Its a bit of a pain, but when you wash it make sure you get plenty of water down the back between the fuel tank and the body, 'cos its amaizing just how much cr*p can accumulate there.

Driving a Seven when its snowing is a real experience...especially with aero screenscool.gif - and once its settled...teeth.gif

 

Edited by - Dave H on 15 Sep 2000 12:21:45

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About this winterisation, does Waxoyl remove or deal with low level rust or does that have to be removed first. I have some on the rear frame around the tank. What really concerns me however is the stuff I cant see, there must be a real moisture trap where the ally wraps around the chassis. I cant see any way of getting to these areas.

Andrew, sorry I didnt reply earlier. Its budget time and I'm afraid that our American owners have no idea at all about timetables and the like. The springs are much shorter than the originals and slightly shorter than the ones most recently fitted. I'll hang onto them until the next time that we meet. I've decided to stick with the current set up and go for some decent tyres. Next year I will try a slightly longer rear spring with the same rating. The only other thing that I plan is to uprate the front as per Alan Dixon. This seems like a very sensible mod and will allow the front anti roll bar to work better.

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PeterC wrote "GEMS also have a history of problems with high rpm misfires which seem to be related to poor crank position sensing on the k-series. "

 

Really? I thought it was just mine...

 

Apart from some serious argy-bargy I had with their MD about them lying to me about what was included in the price (the upshot being that I ended up paying an extra 350ukp or so for stuff they told me was included), mine was always very poor at starting (I ran for nearly 2 seasons using a fan heater under the engine for early morning cold starts) plus the engine wouldn't blip cleanly from idle (no amount of map tweaking would cure these problems, even by GEMS themselves). It was assumed that these were characteristics of the engine, but when the plug-compatible M3D came along I translated my maps onto it, plugged it in, cranked it up and voila the problems were gone. I still revel in the ability to blip the throttle at idle without the engine spluttering & misfiring. GEMS did try to help, they had the car at their workshop for a week and concluded that the ECU was behaving. After I got it back it suffered from the high-rpm misfire that Peter has mentioned. No prizes for guessing which ECU I use now.

 

Mike

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Waxoyl is in a very liquid form when it first is released although then forms a sort of bubbling mass of wax. The liquid gradually evaporates,especially in areas of warmth/heat, leaving a wax coating on the areas contacted. It flows very well and will certainly reach inaccessible areas such as rear panel/fuel tank recesses.

I cannot answer the question as to whether it has any effect on existing rust....I will check the can when I get home and re-post.I don't keep a tin on my desk as there is little call for it in my line of work...altho' it might shut up some whinning clients!!

 

John, Thanks for the up date, sorry to hear that the springs were no use. I think your suggestion about tyres and front end mods will improve matters and then a little more ride height should end your problems. Probably best to leave tyres to last as the extra grip may exacerbate your problem?

 

I presume you didn't make it to Harewood.....a little on the wet side!!

 

Andrew.

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The last time it snowed down here (Surrey) for a decent, prolonged spell (1987?) I was driving an absolutely knackered Morris Minor. It was perfect, fabulous fun. Not too much power (not any actually), rear wheel drive and narrow tyres. Drove merrily on where countless others were stranded and snowbound. Highly recommended.

 

I'd relish the chance to muck about in the snow in the seven, even if it would be much more difficult and much, much more expensive if bent (threw the Moggie away a few months later after a huge spin on deep standing water on the A25).

 

Did anyone see the McLaren/Mika-and-wife stunt earlier this year with the two-seater F1 car on snow and ice? Now that would require a little bit of right foot restraint.

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Tony

 

On the radiator adjustable fan switch 'bit', I have recently fitted a "Kenlowe" stat. switch which can be ordered as a spare part. It cost approx. twenty five UK pounds & saves having to get the whole fan assembly as well. I am delighted with it; can adjust the kick in temp. from anywhere between 45* & 120*!!!

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How did this thread get high-jacked by Waxoyl?

Peter & Mike you have confirmed horrid tales I heard from others about the GEMS unit. This is a shame as I had got a good package arranged from Southern Carbs including TBs etc. I would much rather buy the whole kit from one source than mix-n-match. So who do you suggest I approach for a throttle body / ECU package that is plug and pipe compatible with my supersport engine. Removal of the head etc will have to wait until next year so I need a set of bits that will be able to deal with the further development.

Suggestions from satisfied customers would be greatfully received.

Why the hell is Caterham not selling upgrade kits?

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Answer to Peter & Alex

Alex: I understand your Vauhall bias towards QED who resisted involvement with the k-series for a long time before it became clear that it was a serious challenge to the Vauxhall engine on which they built their (good) reputation. I'm no convinced they take the K-series Caterham up-grade market seriously yet - but I will try 'em again.

Peter: Thank you for the offer of a proven M3D map. I may yet take up the offer as I am very keen to avoid ECU / mapping problems. I have spent the last 5 months with a project program plagued by a general inability to keep prototype engines running reliably due to unrecorded ECU functions and impenetratible software. Life is not long enough for this and I don't have ready access to a chassis dyno.

The comments of Mike Bess, yourself and others is making me lead towards the Emerald unit providing I can get a good default map for the 1600k ss engine.

Thanks for your comments - I will let you know developments.

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