Mickrick Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Why does the propshaft have to be put into the tunnel before fitting the diff? Surely it can be passed back through through the tunnel via the engine bay? Or is the flange too big? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Flange too big Too young to be old ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickrick Posted October 13, 2009 Author Share Posted October 13, 2009 Is that the answer? Or, did I phrase that badly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 No thats the answer, the flange is too big to fit in from the front hence you need to lay the prop in the tunnel prior to popping the final drive assembly in. Too young to be old ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickrick Posted October 13, 2009 Author Share Posted October 13, 2009 Ah ha! Smashing! Cheers. I'll have to fit the diff twice then. Joy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Join the club - we've all done it !! classic case of RTFM - but we males are not too good at that ! Too young to be old ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickrick Posted October 13, 2009 Author Share Posted October 13, 2009 Don't know what length propshaft I need yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_r Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 I fitted my diff yesterday night. I haven't installed the engine and gearbox yet and read somewhere on Blatchat that you can fit the propshaft after the diff. Didn't think about trying the prop down the tunnel. I guess mines coming out as well. The bolts were a pig to get in as well. I am becoming more sceptical of the engineering quality everytime I do something. Things should assemble easily, but everything seems to be a struggle. I still have sore fingers from the top shock mounts. Note to self to check more Regards Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJS Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 But that first drive in anger makes it all worthwhile... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 Now you can shoot me if I'm wrong, but 2 years ago I got the propshaft out the back end by removing the petrol tank and releasing the axle (LA version) from the A frame and the side bars and sliding it as far back and sidey-ways as the flexible brake pipe would allow. It's a bit of a fiddle, but it does work. Mind you, I had the tank out and the rear suspension off anyway, so it really wasn't that much extra work. Adding; it also made tightening up the propshaft bolts very easy indeed, because there's just so much more room you can actually get a torque wrench and socket on the bolts... Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Edited by - alextangent on 14 Oct 2009 17:03:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 (LA version the skinny tunnel on the de dion prevents this . what we need is a removable gearbox mount ........ here is my Duratec R .... C7 TOP Taffia AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Yes, the live axle tunnel is completely different to the de Dion equivalent, possessing none of the square tube structure where the propshaft exits the back of the tunnel, thus making it easy to remove on that particular chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z3MCJez Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 I am becoming more sceptical of the engineering quality everytime I do something. Things should assemble easily, but everything seems to be a struggle. I still have sore fingers from the top shock mounts. Andrew - take heart. The two most tricky (or worst designed / engineered) parts of the whole build are the front suspension top mounts (poorly designed) and the diff mounting (tolerances really are a bit too large). And you'll get used to using the mallet! The next thing you'll find really difficult (that should be really easy) is fitting the springs to hold the silencer to the collector/cat ☹️ Jez Build Photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny. Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Yep, blood blister still present after fitting them little bastrads a month ago .......I hate pliers with the wire cutters built in on the sides ☹️l Kenny HPC 218 Evo Edited by - kenny. on 15 Oct 2009 10:17:43 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Make up a wire hook with a handle of some sort. It makes refitting a doddle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_r Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Jez, I wipped the diff out yesterday night and fitted the prop. Out and back in in less than hour which I was pretty pleased with. I not too concerned with fitting the exhaust spings. I have has a few ducatis and mastered the spings on the Termi there. Thanks for the words of encouragement. Hope to get the rear suspension finished at the weekend then the heater and bonnet stuff before I go on holiday. Then the engine and gearbox when I return. Is it easier to fit the gearbox and then the engine or both together?? Thanks Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z3MCJez Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Is it easier to fit the gearbox and then the engine or both together??Someone who has tried both will no doubt be along soon, but I fitted mine together and aside from the fact that it was a 2 person job (one to lower the engine crane while the other feeds the gearbox into the right place) it wasn't difficult. Jez Build Photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiF Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Mick, The clearance of the yokes are non existent. It is very tight to get the prop in even excluding the flange. Let me know when you have a length as we may be able to help I think the tunnel width is the same on the SV as the standard chassis. RiF Building a real super SUPER 7 with a V6 😬 😬 😬.For Build Pictures and LOTS of Carbon or try CA07BON for Henrietta's 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickrick Posted October 15, 2009 Author Share Posted October 15, 2009 I'll be after one of those carbon ones. 🥰 Trying to buy the diff from Quaiffe at the moment, (Compete unit) but I'm told they only sell the 23 degree diff If I want a 15 degree, I'll have to go directly to CC..... I haven't a clue what the degrees refer to on an ATB type diff? Can't be ramp angles. Would it be driveshaft splines? Talking of which, what have you done about driveshafts on your monster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiF Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Having special ones made at the moment through RS. Think GKN are fabricating them. They will be the same as on the other V8's Russell has built. He found the standard ones broke very easily!!!! I am unsure what the Quaiffe diff is I am getting. I need to collect it from RS. RiF Building a real super SUPER 7 with a V6 😬 😬 😬.For Build Pictures and LOTS of Carbon or try CA07BON for Henrietta's 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickrick Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 He found the standard ones broke very easily!!!! I 😬 Got an answer on the angle thing. the difference is the angle of the pinion in the diff. The 15 degrees is like having a normal open diff and the 23 degrees will slightly grip more and handle slightly better as well. I'm still not 100% sure what they mean. I've ordered the 3.92:1 with the 23 degree pinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 When I finished bastardising K2RUM I got in a situation where you could only remove the prop if you removed the diff and the gearbox! I would suggest you think yourslf lucky. It is possible on a 'normal' Seven to remove the prop by taking the diff and rear rear suspension in one piece. Witness this photo of my car pre serious chassis mods. here Edited coz I couldn't get the link right... Edited by - EFA on 16 Oct 2009 17:14:00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickrick Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 I thought it was all supposed to be part of the fun! Skinned knuckles, bloodblisters, black nails, gear oil in your hair (If you have any left) and weld spatter hissing down your ear, or melting your nylon socks inside your boots. All part of the fun. That's the trouble with the young 'uns today, they want everything to come easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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