Wil Akroyd Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 My front wishbones are starting to speckle a little as are the mud guard brackets. Whats the best thing to do with them? I'm thinking rub down and paint, but which is the best sort of paint to use and where can you get it? advice please! C7 WEA 1.6K DVA Power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Hammerite smooth in satin black is a fairly good match to original. Two coats. Available from Halfords ..... just done part of my wing stays with this. Edited by - Stationary M25 Traveller on 2 Oct 2009 14:38:00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 top tip apply strips of satin black electrical insulation tape along the length of the 'bone to protect from future stone chips. You can[t] see the tape on the powder coated bone. Replace every year. here is my Duratec R .... C7 TOP Taffia AO Edited by - Dave J on 2 Oct 2009 17:16:31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 .... or even "can't" see ....... Second that ...... a great tip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 I just stripped my wishbones using paint stripper and wirewool (3 pairs of cloves etc...) Then used a rubberized paint spray with an undercoat. Comes up a treat in a matt black colour and should be a lot harder wearing than hammerite or powerdercoating as it will resist the stone chips and not flake off. here The undercoat is really thin and spreads a long way so 500 ml will do all your bits you need. The spray needs 2 or 3 light coats but you can build it up further. 1 can did all 4 wishbones, so for all the front parts you will need 2 cans, but I would go for 3 and do the rear links and A-frame as well. Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMorris Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 OR - get them Nylon coated. I have a set that were done ~3 years ago and they show no marks at all (Make sure that the coater puts release agent in the appropriate parts otherwise you'll never get the stuff off to get the bushes back in) Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wil Akroyd Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share Posted October 3, 2009 thanks for the solutions chaps, is the nylon coating expensive? C7 WEA 1.6K DVA Power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Wil, It's cheap and gives an excellent result. While you're at it, get the FIA bar done and any bits of rear suspension like a-frame etc - I even had the springs done. A lot of us use Kelcoat in Leek Paul Edited by - Paul McKenzie on 3 Oct 2009 17:29:52 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterpi Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Hi. I did part of mine recently (with the hammerite stuff, I mean) while replacing a bearing. See the bottom of this thread for a couple of photos. The finish isn't exactly the same, but it's good enough. I did lots (>2) of very thin coats. Maybe four or five, I can't remember. Top tip about the insulating tape though Edited by - peterpi on 3 Oct 2009 17:47:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Pound for a pound the hammerite last precisely as long as it takes for POR 15 to come off your arms if your gloves split. Tried hammerite, wouldn't go back again. POR was better but I did get mine sprayed with black satin undercoat once and they stayed pristine right up until the point where a nasty wall decided to bend them at to h£ll. that's what I'd do again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMorris Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Will, powder coating is pretty cheap - Kelcoat in Leek appear to have a "Maximum Batch Price" so what tends to happen around here is a group of people gather up all their bits and they get taken in as a job-lot. I would reckon that 4 wishbones on their own would be ~£20, possibly a bit more. You'll probably find plenty of Powder Coaters near to you but not many Nylon coaters - though I do know that there are some in Sheffield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clousta Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Well, whilst getting various things sorted out on my new purchase I have gone down a different route temporarily. I have invested in a POR-15 package but the preparation for that will be time consuming and therefore it is a job for the winter months. In the meantime my Bulgarian friend, when we were working on a rotating wheel stud and a slicking calliper last weekend, supplied me with some 'Protecta 3 in 1'. It goes on very easily and provides a lovely classic semi-matt appearance which goes very well with the classic nature of the car. It needs a couple of coats but goes on easily after a light rubdown of the surface rust and a degrease if needed. Its a product from Romania: here I'll be doing some more tomorrow before the newly shod wheels (A021R 185/70/13) go back on. Anyone for five 21 year old Goodyear Eagle NCT 185/70 with just 9,000 miles of wear...? 😳 Gavin 1988 1700 Supersprint (LA, long cockpit) Edited by - Clousta on 4 Oct 2009 06:37:25 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweeky Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 Wil Allsops im Honley powerder coat things dont have a batch limit you need to talk to Steve Moxon Tweeky In a purple haze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wil Akroyd Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share Posted October 3, 2009 forgive my ignorance. What is the difference between powder and nylon coating? Which will be the most durable / easy to do /value for money? Thanks for tweeky obviously honley is close to me do they nylon coat? C7 WEA 1.6K DVA Power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweeky Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 no just power coating Tweeky In a purple haze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Chan Posted October 3, 2009 Area Representative Share Posted October 3, 2009 forgive my ignorance. What is the difference between powder and nylon coating? Which will be the most durable / easy to do /value for money? Nylon coating is much stronger and resilient than powder coating. It can't be applied to alloy though as the baking process is to 400 degrees and the alloy tends to go a bit soft before then! So any steel items (wishbones, A frame, springs, uprights, FIA bar, cage, de dion tube etc.) are perfect for nylon coating and as the coating is very slightly plasticised, stones tend to bounce off it and leave no mark at all. Powder coating is to 200 degrees and the coating tends to be slightly more brittle hence the stonechips. Dave's comment about Kelcoat is about right Kelcoat in Leek appear to have a "Maximum Batch Price" so what tends to happen around here is a group of people gather up all their bits and they get taken in as a job-lot Not because they limit the size of the items they take in but because they seem to stop at about £100 for the pile. I have taken in the bits for 3 cars inc a cage, 3x FIA bars, wishbones, uprights, windscreen frames and stanchions, headlight bowls, trailing arms, springs and caps and it still cost £100 for the pile 😬 And they will happily nylon coat as much as possible and powdercoat the rest of the stuff for the same price. The price also includes shotblasting and removng the old finish which not all powdercoating places do. Nick Back in a BEC! - But trying to get into Class 1... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Crudders Posted October 6, 2009 Area Representative Share Posted October 6, 2009 Without wishing to state trhe bleeding obvious (I'll leave that to other experts )any kind of baked on coating will call for removal/replacement of the bushes, which is fine if you were replacing them anyway but if like me your bushes were in good nick, you could do worse than the treatment I used: 1. Strip and degrease 2. POR Metal Ready zinc phosphating solution. 3. POR 15 Black Rust Prevention Paint, remembering to take the warning about wearing gloves very seriously! 4. As the POR 15 is rather glossy, finish off with VHT Barrel Paint which is a pretty good match to the standard black powder coat. The above are all available from Frost Crudders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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