Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Steering "clong"


Ted_7

Recommended Posts

Hello everybody

 

Since a month or two I have a weird "clong" noise when I turn the wheels ! You can feel it most when the car is stopped (there are more resistance then) and it's slightly perceptible when I drive on small road. Seems to come from that blue bar (it's a LHD)...

 

Question is : can I keep on going like that for a while or is it very dangerous and then I have to change asap the blue bar ? *confused*

Problem is : I'm going on holiday next Saturday

 

Thanks in advance for your answers

 

Se7enly, Ted_7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In addition to my previous post :

 

- The "clong" appears when the wheel is at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock

- There have to be some resistance, if you lift up the car you can't feel or hear anything

- It's about 2000 miles I have that problem, no change in the handling of the car

- It's coming for sure from the blue rack bar

- It's a 8% track, not the wide one

 

Please help ☹️

 

Se7enly, Ted_7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have a look through this thread here as well - although its about sticky steering it might help as Raphael had a problem with his steering clamp.

 

My steering was a bit sticky but after I oiled everything it loosened up. If the rack is fixed tightly then it may be the U/J has got a bit dry and clonks as it rotates.

 

Nick

P8MRA - The green one with red wings

 

Edited by - Nick Woods on 29 Jul 2002 09:47:58

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like finally it's the rack that's getting old ☹️

Not broken or else, but needs to be changed in a not too far future, I'll do it probably this winter. It's funny because the feeling was more intense when the weather was very hot (like those days here), yesterday it rained and the weather was cooler, the noise almost disapeared...

I'll change for a 22% then, and later on I'll pass on wide tracks.

Thanks to all of you for the help.

 

Se7enly, Ted_7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ditto work some grease into it via the big plug hole to the left of the rack.

36mm spanner to get the ring nut off, 7/32" hex to remove the plug. Once greased adjust the plug (the back of it has a bearing surfaced cupped rubbing plate that holds the rack down) with the hex key so that you have no slop but still have free steering. Check it with the wheels on the ground to ensure it is tight enough not to clonk.

Replace and tighten locking ring.

 

Just done mine hence I remember all the sizes.

 

If you cannot adjust out the clonk then check the track rod ends for play. These can be found behind the gaitors and can be adjusted/tightened if you drill out the securing pin and then drill a new hole and put a new one in.

The rods should be tight enough to just droop under their own weight without the big ball joint end on. *****See Phil's correction below*****

I know this because Phil converted a 2nd hand wide track 8% rack to narrow track be replacing the rods at my place.

 

Other than that it could be the ball joints but these you can see moving / feel if you grab the wheel (when jacked up) and rock left / right.

 

Steve

My racing pics here

Hants (North) and Berkshire area club site

here

 

 

Edited by - stevefoster on 1 Aug 2002 09:12:50

 

Edited by - stevefoster on 1 Aug 2002 16:45:44

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry Steve, slightly wrong,

The track rods should be tight enough so that they don't quite droop under the weight of the track rod end (i.e break the track rod end from the hub's steering arm). It is quick tricky to set this as when you do the locknut you tend to loosen it, so go slightly beyond.

Agree with the grease though *smile*

 

Edited by - philwaters on 1 Aug 2002 10:49:36

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The plastic 'slipper' should pull straight out without any problems once you have taken the large nut off. There should be a bent spring washer underneath the nut that takes up any slack in the slipper. Greasing it should do it good. When re adjusting test the rack over its full travel and adjust out any tight spots

 

Edited by - Graham Perry on 1 Aug 2002 12:33:12

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...