John Vine Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 I'd appreciate your advice, chaps. One of the three wires to this snap-on connector has parted company with its pin (I think the wires were under a bit of tension at this point). I've removed the yellow thingy inside the snap-on connector to get at the pin, but how do I extract the pin itself? JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geko Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 Hi, if it is a Econoseal Connector the pin extraction is like this: here Best regards Gerhard Caterham CSR 200 MAZDA MX-5, NB, 1840ccm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 Thanks, Gerhard, you're a star . It certainly looks like I've got an Econoseal connector. Now I just need to find a tool source. Alternatively, would a thin-bladed screwdriver work, or am I likely to damage the contact? JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geko Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 Hi, I think you don´t need this tool. A small screwdriver (with a blade of 1mm or less) will do the job. If it is a econoseal you will find a yellow or white cap in the connector (both sides male and female) remove this cap and you will see where you have to unlock the pins. (just done today at a connector for a Caterham rear light cluster) Best regards Gerhard Caterham CSR 200 MAZDA MX-5, NB, 1840ccm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 Thanks, Gerhard. I've already taken off the yellow cap. Tomorrow I'll have a go with a thin screwdriver. The only snag is that there's no wire to pull because it's broken right behind the connector. So, one hand to operate the screwdriver, the other to push out the connector! JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBL Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 John, I researched the TPS connector on my car a great deal in order to solve an interference problem between it and the pedal box. It looks like this: My TPS connector If yours looks the same, maybe the following will be of use to you. Mine is a AMP "SSC" connector, made by TYCO Electronics. Part numbers of the sub-components involved are: 184192-1 CAP HOUSING (1 req'd) 184196-1 CAP LOCK PLATE (1 req'd) 171661-1 TAP CONTACT (3 req'd) 184140-1 WIRE SEAL (3 req'd) Here is a link to the TYCO Electronics spec page for the housing, which has some links to drawings and assembly instructions, and you can just search by part number for the others from there if they are needed: TYCO Electronics.com page w/ 184192-1 connector housing Regards, Sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geko Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 Hi, Befor you become angry 😬: A shop who sell these connectors: here Best regards Gerhard Caterham CSR 200 MAZDA MX-5, NB, 1840ccm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBL Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 I won't get angry, because my TPS problem has been solved. Also, that shop is a bit far away from me, though a good source for others here. Sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geko Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 My answer was for JV but I think it is impossible to get angry in California isn´t it? 😬 Best regards Gerhard Caterham CSR 200 MAZDA MX-5, NB, 1840ccm Edited by - geko on 30 Aug 2009 09:31:28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted August 30, 2009 Author Share Posted August 30, 2009 Job done! Many thanks to all. I used a 1.4mm mini-screwdriver to lift the locking tab, pushed out the connector with another mini-screwdriver, then soldered the broken wire. Sean/BBL: It looks like my TPS and connectors are different to yours. Here are some pics: here here here here Looking at your pics, you appear to have rollerbarrels, whereas my R400 has a plenum chamber and butterfly throttle. I guess Caterham use different TPS's for each? JV Edited 15Sep23: Fixing the broken links will no longer help as Photobucket, in their unhelpful way, no longer support free photo storage. So, here are some of the missing photos: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moorsd123 Posted September 16, 2023 Share Posted September 16, 2023 Found exactly this same issue on my R400D TPS wiring today...except two wires were broken!!.For anyone having this issue in future if you haven't already upgraded your coil pack loom to the upgraded "race" version, it might be worth checking this wiring too (particularly No1 cylinder)....early R400D's are prone to both this and the TPS wiring issue and both of mine failed within a matter of weeks apart!The newer wiring solutions are much thicker and are silicon coated to avoid the fracturing caused by high frequency vibration! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted September 16, 2023 Author Share Posted September 16, 2023 That damage is absolutely typical of the problem. Glad to hear it's fixed! For info, this is CC's uprated TPS sub-loom. It's expensive, but does include the TPS. However, it's not difficult to make your own (without TPS) as a temporary fix. This was my effort:JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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