CageyH Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 With a Standard alloy Rad, and a 9" Pacet pro fan, the cooling on the 7 is marginal when stopped. It got up to about 38 degrees the other day, and when in traffic the temp gauge went above the usual point, close to the line half way between the 80 and 120 degree marks. On the move it is fine. So, a better cooling set up is needed if I keep the 7. I am thinking of the Radtech radiator with an 11" Pacet pro fan. (The Radtech is a twin core if I remember?). Or should I go for the Pace radiator? A four core? Or would a better (cheaper) solution be a lower temp thermo fan switch, such as the R500 version, or the wiring mod to make the emerald control the fan, and wire in the manual override. If I get the fan coming in lower, hopefully it will be enough. If not, a push fan on the front may have to be fitted as well if I stick with the standard rad. Any thoughts on the above? Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 I have four core and a ton of other stuff.. I'll list in the morning. Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mavic82 Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 I run a VX in he UK, Had some marginal cooling issues on hot days in traffic. I have now fitted the basic Radtec radiator with 11 or 12 inch Pacet high output (can't remember size off hand) cooling now great. For even more cooling use the thicker version. However I found the standard one far better than the Caterham triple pass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 can't sleep, things that assist cooling in my 7: 4 row ally rad from Pace (made a big difference) Apollo tank Oil cooler Heater (kept "in circuit") Extra large fan (made a noticeable difference) Number plate removed (noticeably less cooling when in place, recent experience) things I am thinking of to add: seal the gap between the rad and the nose cone, suggestion from an Aston Martin cooling specialist at the 'Ring. He also said to ditch the no plate. Can't remember what he suggested I use - I'll ask him. Recently I have noticed hotter running in line with mid day temperatures as you describe, below 42mph seems to be the problem generally not enough airflow and above 35 deg C the temp matches the speedo, when I slow (come off the motorway) it just keeps rising. It has been unspeakably hot here. Anthony Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 FWIW I fitted a 4row Radtech alloy Rad and let Emerald do the controlling Worked for me in the Arizona Deserts in mid summer jj MTM , N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted August 22, 2009 Area Representative Share Posted August 22, 2009 Interesting topic because not only do the engines get too hot in the summer, they get too cool in the winter. In the summer you can lift the bonnet and the chassis rails are really hot (nearlt too hot to touch) How do ordinary modern tintops stay within acceptable ranges? They have tightly packed engine bays, they have systems which get the cabin to decent temperatures quickly and yet apparently the engine remains at a stable "normal" temperature. Democratic dissent is not disloyalty, it is a positive civic duty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molecular--Bob Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Not sure if this is relavent to a K-series, but on a crossflow at low revs the water pump is very inefficient and the water in the head stagnates and heats up. I find that a few more revs when stuck in traffic with the fan running actually brings the temperature down a bit. Might be worth trying before you spend money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Jonty I was wondering about that, whether my engine having been rebuilt may result in it running hotter (more power) and whether the ecu programming (mapping?) can be used to make it run cooler, presumably less power generates less heat. Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share Posted August 22, 2009 That is the problem. It is trying to get the right balance between sufficient cooling in the summer, but not over cooling in the winter. That is why I am tempted by the Radtech twin core and a Pacet 11" pro fan. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share Posted August 22, 2009 *arrowup*If the engine runs lean, it runs hot. If you richen it up a bit, it should ryun cooler, but that is not a solution I wantr to mess with. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 the cooling on the 7 is marginal when stopped If it is alright when running (including flat out up big hills etc) why would you consider that the radiator needs replacing? Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share Posted August 22, 2009 Because I can't fit a bigger fan to the present version. It is already as big as the radiator core. If I could fit another fan I probably would so that I can increase the air throughput when stationary/ Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share Posted August 22, 2009 I have a Pacet KPF0911 - 9” fan, which shifts 1543 m3/hr. Compared to the Standard Spal which is just above 1000 m3/hr. Ideally, I probably need a shroud so I can maximise the efficiency of the fan. Going for a radiator, which due to a different construction, allows for 2110 m3/hr seems sensible. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 you can pick up a shroud from turin, it's near here Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share Posted August 22, 2009 Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverSedlacek Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 That doesn't sound too hot to me. I suggest leaving it alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 I have the rear edge of the bonnet turned up creating a NACA duct which keeps my engine temprature down to 74c. (when I remove the pegs that hold the bonnet open the temp. rises to 85c). My problem on the very hot days is fuel vaporisation. By the way, I have a caterham ali race rad, a new water pump and a sealed system. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share Posted August 22, 2009 I looked at the westfield FW400 bonnet the other day. Large intakes in the front, and a couple of vents in the back edge which sound similar to yours Norm. (Did Paul enjoy his trip? - You recovered yet? ) Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Mill Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 I think Bob has a point. From what I remember when the engine is ticking over and fan is on the outflow from the rad is stone cold so picking up the revs will allow the rad to shift more heat. Also, keeping the flow up prevents the potential thermal shock problems from dumping a load of cold water out of the rad into the engine when the lights go green. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share Posted August 22, 2009 I will try it and see what happens.... Problem is, (fortunately) it is cooling down again now. Cheapest solution is not to use the 7 on the hot days! Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Cheapest solution is not to use the 7 on the hot days! me too. it's not usually very pleasant anyway, later in the day is better. Anthony Edited by - anthonym on 22 Aug 2009 14:30:37 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 11, 2019 Author Share Posted April 11, 2019 A little update on this old topic.Facing ambient temperatures in the mid to high 30s on a regular basis, I fitted a PRRT, Radtec radiator and a Comex 11” high output fan (Comex Fan0153 or Revotec Fan0153).The PRRT takes care of any overcooling issues in winter, bypassing the radiator. The Radtec takes care of thecooling when moving, and the fan does a great job when stuck in traffic. It is far better than the Spal fan that Radtec supply with the optional 11” fan upgrade option, but it is also more expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 Kevin,I found my car overheating when I leaft it in the pit to cool down following a trackday session.This was completely sorted when I fitted an external water pump to circulate the water in idle. The car has PRRT and standard rad and fan. No issues last summer, which was warm here, and all nine trackdays without any kind of problems (until the cam belt snapped, but that's another story). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 11, 2019 Author Share Posted April 11, 2019 That was plan B if the problems continued, as I think the standard pump has limited capacity at tick over. At the moment, it seems fine for road use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stridey Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 It’s taken a while for me to get my Crossflow to a point where I feel temp is controllable, it would overheat in static traffic.Initially I fitted a bigger fan. It helped. Especially as an oil cooler had been fitted in front of the rad, blocking it somewhat. Then I experimented with different thermostats, having checked the old one in a saucepan with a thermometer.I figure over time the rad gets more inefficient and modern traffic doesn’t help.I also fitted a bypass from a TX4 taxi to the heater, as I felt this would prevent heat soak from the heater into the cabin a bit.However, after a shunt my rad was replaced with a new one it’s been even better. Lastly, I have a fan overrride switch and wired a light on the dash (between the speedo and tach) to show when the fan is running. This is a great tell tale as you can see if the fan is cutting in and out, also the override lets you anticipate a need for the fan, if you feel your going to hit traffic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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