Chaz23 Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Ahhh! On Welsh blat and I am starting to have some major issues with movement or lack of. Everything was fine until I pulled into a car park at lyn brenig when i heard a clonk and lost movement both forwards and backwards ( backwards worse). Once car was cool it seemed fine until I got to camp site when i lost movement trying to go backwards. Any ideas what it could be? ----- 1993 De-Dion 1700 X/FLOW Edited by - Chaz23 on 17 Aug 2009 11:34:19 Edited by - Chaz23 on 18 Aug 2009 20:15:26 Edited by - Chaz23 on 23 Aug 2009 18:14:34 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Clutch? did the revs rise but no movement ? A little more description would be useful :) J ----------------------------------- She is back in my garage, ready for a re-build. 1992 LA, Xflow, Ford axle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Not sure from the description but do you mean loss of drive or the car won't roll fore/aft without additional power? Loss of drive sounds like a clutch problem, the latter sounds like brakes (maybe handbrake) binding which when the pads/shoes etc cool slacken off and allow free movement. This would be a sticky caliper of slave cyclinder not backing off after braking resulting in excess heat/expansion. Probably not much you can do at the roadside without tools/parts for either of the above. ☹️ Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends Puddle Pet Care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaz23 Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 After today I have pretty much sussed that it is the breaks. She is running better but only if I don't want to go in reverse. Steve, from your discription you could well be right as it really went bad after lots of heavy breaking. Will do a overhaul on the breaks this weekend with my dad. ----- 1993 De-Dion 1700 X/FLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaz23 Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 Its the breaks! Currently have none and now waiting for breakdown recovery. ----- 1993 De-Dion 1700 X/FLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claire Voyant Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 keep your breaks for the Kit-Kats You need all the braking on your car you can get! Sorry to hear of your woes and I hope they can be sorted quickly. I also appreciate that your message is probably coming from a mobile phone (or similar) Edited by - Rollbar on 17 Aug 2009 11:47:18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaz23 Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 Rollbar, yep I was using iPhone and it was a bit nippy. Finally home but went to start car to move it to the garage and I had a dead battery! So it looks like I will be spending a bit of time in the garage this next week. ----- 1993 De-Dion 1700 X/FLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaz23 Posted August 18, 2009 Author Share Posted August 18, 2009 Right I have now diagnosed the original fault. First have a look at: http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/55/555/3/60/21/2886360210101595677crPqce_th.jpg And see if you can spot what is wrong. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yep there is a brake pad missing. Think that was what the clonk might have been. Now how do you change the pads of these? The reason I ask is because the manual says that I need a special tool. ----- 1993 De-Dion 1700 X/FLOW Edited by - Chaz23 on 18 Aug 2009 20:17:23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard K Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Yes using a 'winding tool' wil help. This can be bought from most 'good' car spare stores or Halfords. I haven't used one but the principal is that it applies pressure to force the piston back while also rotating. I think you can use pliers but a slip and you could end up damaging the piston bore etc. NB. Be careful now you have the caliper off as I found that by moving the hand brake actuater leaver 'just to see what it does' the piston came right out of the housing Good luck Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Thing is - how did it get out? It's trapped in. I have successfully would back pistons with a bit of bent brass bar - but trying to wind and press in with sufficient force to make it all work wasn't fun. I might just by the proper tool next time - and it might fit the integrale too, 'cos that was even less fun! Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Campbell Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Just changed the pads on mine last weekend. Windback tool was a godsend. £21 from halfords..well worth the money....easy peezy with the right tool. but...how the hell did the old pad get out ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaz23 Posted August 18, 2009 Author Share Posted August 18, 2009 Are we talking about this one? ----- 1993 De-Dion 1700 X/FLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Yes - that is the beast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Make sure you get the one for Ford calipers. I believe there are ones with differing pin configurations. Wind the piston clockwise to retract it back into the caliper. I too and wondering how on earth the pad escaped unless you bought them from a chap named Harry Houdini 😬 Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends Puddle Pet Care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 I used the tool for removing the cutting wheel from my angle grinder to wind back the piston, perfect fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 It looks as though you'll be needing new rear disks as the piston will have damaged the disc. I wore a rear pad down to the backing once, new pads installed & the very slightly scored disc wore that pad out in half the time. New discs are cheap though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 ... but can be fun to fit ...... the bolts that hold the disc to the rotor have very thin heads, and can be difficult to remove .... see recommendations to grind the radius off the end of a socket, so you get maximum contact with the depth of the bolt head. Mine were heavily loctited in place and needed a lot of persuasion ... including soaking in PlusGas, and blue flames on some. You'll also need a 41mm socket for the hub nuts (assuming it is a de Dion car ?) one being LH thread one RH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Campbell Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 Yep..that's the Halfords one...it covers a wide range of makes, as it has a "reversible" plate with the pins in different positions. Very easy to use. I did mine "in situ", didn't need to take the calipers off the car. Steve Campbell P889 GRR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaz23 Posted August 19, 2009 Author Share Posted August 19, 2009 to Redine who are sending me the parts that I need for Friday. Very helpful and efficent at getting me sorted. So I have gone for the brake discs and brake pads for the rear. 1993 De-Dion 1700 X/FLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 You may find a local Sevener that has the wind-back tool and 41mm socket that you can borrow. I have both here (near Dartford), but a bit far away, unless you know anyone passing ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 Chaz, I have the tools here in Selsey too. Probably not much if any closer though. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends Puddle Pet Care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 From those pics. you have sticking calipers as its the pad next the piston that's gone i.e. its doing all the work whilst the opposing one is stuck there not moving Just my 2d worth jj MTM , N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 I had this on my Mazda ....... nearside brake sticking, got red hot. Wound piston back in, fitted new pads, all seemed ok, caliper parts moved freely (and contact surfaces lubricated with CopaSlip). 10k later found pads worn to nothing this side only, offside fine. Replaced caliper this time ........ seems ok so far, so presumably piston was sticking in bore. Chaz ... have you ever replaced the brake fluid ? Should be done every few years, as any water absorbed into the fluid sinks below the brake fluid = ends up in the calipers and causes corrosion. Edited by - Stationary M25 Traveller on 19 Aug 2009 14:41:24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaz23 Posted August 19, 2009 Author Share Posted August 19, 2009 I was planning to changed the brake fluid this weekend anyway but its now one of those jobs that have to be done. ----- 1993 De-Dion 1700 X/FLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaz23 Posted August 23, 2009 Author Share Posted August 23, 2009 She's all fixed and back on the road - its only been a week and already I forgot how much fun she is 😬 1993 De-Dion 1700 X/FLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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