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Replacing coolant hosing on K series


ross.mcw

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Hi,

 

Another K series question on my Ariel Atom (hope you don't mind).

 

I'm thinking of binning all the nasty rubber coolant hosing that's currently wrapped round my K series as it:-

 

1. looks messy

2. is over complicated given that I have no heater requirements

3. gets in the way whenever I want to work on/clean the engine

 

I also need to re-site the expansion tank so it's more convenient to get to as it's currently inside an airbox that lives above the engine and so requires dismantling every time I want to top up the oil, clean/work on the engine (I'm also going to resite the air filter and sort out the airbox area to make it more convenient).

 

I was figuring I could probably just buy some nicer looking metal braided coolant piping and pretty much replace the currrent rubber stuff, re-routing as appropriate and removing currently un-unsed blocked up junctions etc. - the current hosing looks like the standard Rover stuff chopped and blocked where necessary as there is no heater inlet/outlet required.

 

I also figured that repositioning the expansion tank should just be a case of moving it somewhere else that is higher than the cylinder head.

 

So to my questions:-

 

1. Has anyone got experience of doing this kind of thing on a K series?

2. If so, has anyone had any problems?

3. Any ideas for sourcing suitable replacement coolant hosing?

4. Is it fairly easy to drain/top-up the coolant on the K series or are there some gotchas I need to be aware of?

 

Many thanks in advance for any advice.

 

Cheers, Ross.

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You don't want braid for coolant hoses. Go for the silicone hoses from Samco. The K-series requires two coolant circuits - radiator and bypass. Heater is normally plumbed into the bypass. For small hose sizes (8mm from the inlet manifold to the expansion tank) use Samco Superflex as it will retain its shape when you go round corners.

 

Draining and refilling is critical with the K. Details will depend on your plumbing. I have removed the ball bearing from the inlet manifold bleed and I tend to fill the bypass circuit and head and then blow down the pipes to force the coolant through the inlet manifold bleed-off, with the cam cover end of the engine elevated. I keep topping up at the pipe into the head exit and blowing down it until the coolant coming through the bleed-off is free from air bubbles. I then connect that hose to the top of the radiator and continue filling at the expansion tank, with a bleed screw open at the top of the radiator. I put a piece of tubing into the bleed-screw hole so that I can see when the level has reached the top without spilling.

 

Always use Comma Coldstream or Rover 4-year coolant with these engines - this is a Propylene Glycol coolant. Do not use generic Ethylene Glycol based products.

 

 

 

*thumbup*253 bhp, up and running *thumbup*

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on this subject - why does the caterham silicone hose kit not include all the hoses? you get the three big ones:

 

rad->submarine,

submarine -> water pump (the J hose) and

water rail->rad.

 

But not the smaller ones

 

expansion tank -> block,

water pump to heater/join,

heater/join -> water rail

expansion tank -> submarine

 

the union to water rail i got off miraz (who didn't need it any more) but i still have a poxy black rubber one for expansion to block...

 

Also i really should trim the union to water rail one as its FAR too long with no heater fitted. presumable a hacksaw blade will do that nicely?

 

Dave Hooper - dmch2@lineone.net

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