CHRIS CLARK Posted September 10, 2000 Share Posted September 10, 2000 For those of us without the ability to flick the switch & read water & oil temps can those of you with that facility help! How long does it take for the oil temp to come up to a good working norm. (for road use say)? I'm not looking to the nearest second; just an approximation will do. Water obviously comes up to the proper temp. quicker but I'd rather not cane a 'cold' engine! All contributions gratefully received. Ta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted September 11, 2000 Share Posted September 11, 2000 Several times as long as it takes for the coolant to get up to temperature, where several is more than 2. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slipper man Posted September 11, 2000 Share Posted September 11, 2000 As a general rule, it takes about 10 mins for the oil to reach working temperature Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted September 11, 2000 Share Posted September 11, 2000 THe oil will thin as it warms, so if you drive at constant revs, wait until the oil pressure stops dropping and it should be nice and warm...cool.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted September 11, 2000 Share Posted September 11, 2000 If you have an idle below 1000rpm, then with warm runny oil the oil pressure at idle will drop to ~half its running value. e.g. ~2 bar, dropping from 4 bar when running. From a cold start, the oil pressure will stay up near the 4 bar level even at idle. (This experience may not apply to 20W50 oil!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted September 11, 2000 Author Share Posted September 11, 2000 Thanks for the replies guys. Mike-- Do I add in the date to this equation? I get the idea though! Keith-- Makes sense. Dave-- My "K" takes about 15 mins to reduce to the 2 bar at idle as Peter mentions. Peter-- Engine is on Mobil 1 (No old crossflow oil here ie. 20W50 ha ha Dave only joking) Idle is exactly 1000 RPM. Wish I could make it 1100 to get rid of the first motion shaft rumble but it's a Rover MEMS unit!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rory McLeod Posted September 11, 2000 Share Posted September 11, 2000 Damn Damn, my manual says: Do not therefore use full throttle, high revs or allow the engine to labour until the temp guage has reached 70 degrees (ford) 90 degrees (Rover) My right foot has a nasty twitch which I have restrained to occur at exactly 91 degrees - are you all saying I have been thrashing the engine too hard all summermad.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted September 11, 2000 Author Share Posted September 11, 2000 Rory If you have read any of my other threads in the past then you'll know that the only time my gauge shows 90* is in traffic! The fan cuts in at 91*!!! Normal running only gives about 78-80*. Does that mean I can't 'give it some' (woah boy!)unless in traffic? Mike Bees says the gauge may say 80* but his ECU says 90* (Not the std MEMS unit). What/who do you believe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rory McLeod Posted September 11, 2000 Share Posted September 11, 2000 Belief is suspended for the duration I think. I just checked my gauge and it seem I have been flooring it at 81 deg. Damnit, I will have to go more carefully from now on - thought it was too good to be true! Edited by - Rory McLeod on 12 Sep 2000 06:16:26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted September 12, 2000 Share Posted September 12, 2000 I was referring to the coolant temperature when I mentioned the difference between the gauge and the ECU. In my experience the oil temperature is much more dependent on the ambient temperature (which makes sense given that the coolant circuit is controlled by a thermostat and the oil circuit isn't). Keith's 10 minutes might be about right on a summer's day, but in winter it takes ages to get any temperature into the oil (with a dry sump that is). Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted September 12, 2000 Share Posted September 12, 2000 Chris - sounds like you need to fit an Oil Temperature Gauge. Either that or idle the engine every 3 or 4 minutes to see if the oil has warmed up enough. Another project for the winter months? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Seipel Posted September 13, 2000 Share Posted September 13, 2000 Good grief guy's! If you were driving a normal production car that was fitted with said engine, when do you give it a foot full? Take great car that the gauge is at a certain position first? Does the average car have an oil gauge? Don't all agree at this point because I know you're all fibbing! The engine doesn't turn into an unreliable heap of metal once fitted to a seven you know (dodgy engine upgrades & x flows excluded of course - oh dear that'll startthem off I bet!) An engine is pretty damn bomb proof in this day and age and except for some of the very high power output engines would sail past the manufacturers butch tests without any problems especially once run in. So get a grip and drive it like a normal car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted September 14, 2000 Share Posted September 14, 2000 But it's not a normal car.... and my engine certainly wasn't bomb proof. Then again, I can't imagine normal cars being held at 7000rpm in fifth for 5 minutes, at least on the roads. Certainly no chance of that despite the clear roads (apart from around petrol stations). The oil in my car can get as hot as 131 degC (assuming my SPA digital guage is accurate) so I'll be fitting an oil cooler soon. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted September 14, 2000 Share Posted September 14, 2000 I was asleep at the time, but the trip computer in the company car BMW (urgh!) provided the telltale that Jo had been averaging 135mph for about 2 hours on our trip to the snowfields last ski season. (undisclosed continental location). That was quite a lot of sustained rpm and power delivery from a normal car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted September 14, 2000 Share Posted September 14, 2000 Tim, The whole point of the Seven is it's not a normal car, so I, for one, can't drive it like a normal car. The engine rev's freely, the car zips up though the gears, the carbs make a great noise, the exhaust even greater,the one thing it ain't is normal... Peter - sounds like you need a company Seven teeth.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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