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Stiff Rear Suspension


caterhamnut

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Not on my car - on our neighbour Steve's R300

 

Looking at the part numbers, car is fitted with standard progressive springs and 'standard' dampers (with platforms)

 

I was showing him the adjustable dampers on our car whilst I had the boot floor out, and the difference it made to the 'bounce-test' when you have the dampers on full 'soft' and full 'hard' (I know it is the speed really, but you know what I mean)

 

We then went to 'bounce' hid rear 😳 and the car is very very stiff indeed - but more worryingly, the return of the dampers could be measured in seconds - ie: you bounce the car down, then watch as it takes about 2 seconds to return to the ride height!

I suggested this wasn't correct. The car certainly feels very very harsh on the bumpy roads near us...

 

What could be causing this - standard springs/dampers, so be surprised if it is them...so could some joints be too tight? A-frame?

 

He also has a watts-linkage fitted.

 

Angus's Adventures in Sevenland

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*wavey* RJ - nope, even - both sides - part numbers say 'standard'.

 

Another opinion here has suggested it is all fine - that when someone is in the car it isn't an issue, and the stiff ride is down to the 15" wheels/low profile tyres.

 

I'm not overly convinced - my car has stiffer springs and is 'softer'!

 

Angus's Adventures in Sevenland

 

Edited by - angus&tessa on 5 Jul 2009 16:20:53

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Sorry to hear Steve's having problems. It was always on the stiff side from when it was built but I had nothing to compare it to at the time. When I swapped it I put the better ride quality down to the change to 13 inch wheels and the setting on the anti-roll bar (unless it's changed Steve's R300 is on the middle setting whereas my 500 is on the softest).

 

Regards

 

Duncan

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If it takes seconds for the ride-height to return to normal on the bounce test, surely this suggests that the dampers will pack-down in use and swallow up available travel...?

 

 

 

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Alcester Racing

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*wavey* Angus,

 

 

I think I have a set of standard dampers and springs on the shelf somewhere.

 

Would you want to borrow them for a test? I think I'm passing your area Friday (a couple of times that is)

 

/r-)

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Thanks Angus for posting this and RJ for the kind offer via Angus *wink*

 

The car is great although I find the ride very harsh at the rear compared to Angus’s car over the dreadful roads we have here in Godalming (and Surrey in general).

 

A quick test with the 13” wheels and higher profile tyres felt noticeably better for me so I’m switching as soon as possible and will sell the 15” wheels to help fund the change.

 

Duncan, the car actually handles really well. Along with the change of wheels I’ll be trying the soft setting on the ARB too. *thumbup*

Cheers

Steve

 

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Even with the 15" wheels, using standard road spring/shockers, the ride shouldn't have been so firm, and altering the a/r bar won't really change the ride that much as it is more of a side to side spring, so my guess is that for some reason, the builder has been supplied [probably from new], with some incorrectly valved shocker units. The best thing would be to buy some new ones, and at least eliminate faulty units from the equation.

 

The rear should be set up reasonably softly anyway, otherwise it will not only give an uncomfortable ride, but will be all over the place on a bumpy road.

 

Paul J.

Can you ever have too much power?

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Thanks for the comments Paul,

 

You may be right about the dampers, it does seem odd the way the car slowly rises after a good shove down although this may be common?? I don’t know.

 

Not sure how big a job swapping them out is but I might try some others at some point to see the difference especially if ultimately a softer back end suits me and helps give me more confidence.

 

That said, a very experienced Caterham driver gave it a blast down some bumpy roads and said it was in the ‘sweet spot’ - in his hands with 13” wheels attached it did seem fine from the passenger seat.

Steve

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It takes at least ten minutes to swap them.

 

 

Move seat forwards, jack car remove wheel, remove grommet behind seat undo cap head bolt, undo lower bolt. Refit in opposite order.

 

 

*cool*

 

 

/r

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Have the rear bush bolts (Trailing arms and A-Frame) been torqued when the car was on its wheels with normal payload?

 

Could be that they've been torqued when on stands, or maybe with dampers off and the slow return is due to the rubber bushes having to twist excessively.

 

Willie

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Willie and RJ, thank you, that gives me some ideas and a few things to try. I will let you know how it goes after the weekend (if the rain lets up long enough to get the car out of the garage, that is)

 

Mark, thanks, *wavey* will check in with Angus.

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Graham - agree entirely. Ignoring PC's advice *wink* *tongue*

We'll take the dampers/springs out of the equation and see if everything moves freely.

Dampers are non-adjustable in this case - not to say they weren't wrong from the beginning, but we'll wait and see - will report our findings!

 

Just went for an evening blat in ours (with Steve) and even with 325lb springs on the front of ours it feels softer than Steves car!!

 

Angus's Adventures in Sevenland

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Just a thought.... check that the waisted sections of the link arms between the chassis and the de-dion tube have been fitted round the right way (facing outwards). This is obvious I know, but having had a similar problem recently, found mine were round the wrong way. They were jammed tight against the rear brake calipers, which were wearing them away nicely, restricting suspension movement and causing lots of noises and vibrations to travel around the car. Someone else built the car, and I recently had a post-build check at the factory....but they missed it 😳 😳 😳. After 1000 miles of rather less than perfect motoring, an engineer friend found the problem in 30 seconds. Hope you get it sorted.
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