Paul White Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 I am trying to remove the rollbar so that I can fit my roll cage; which i thought would be a simple job I have undone the only 4 visible bolts (2 at the base of the rear diagonal struts and the 2 13mm on the base plates of the hoop. I thought that it would then knock up, but now the rubber mallets have become club hammers and still no movement! Am I missing something? K80 ROM, metallic green R400 Edited by - Paul White on 5 Jul 2009 10:39:14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul White Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share Posted July 5, 2009 Just done a wider search (only did 6 months last time) and just found the answer. Is there anything I need to know before loosening the rear suspension?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 That the bolts that go up into the bar have a very shallow head section and that it is best to use a true hex headed socket to avoid rounding them off. they are often rusted and once you've lost the ability to get purchase on them you have one hell of a job on your hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul White Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share Posted July 5, 2009 Have proper hex sockets, so that should be OK. K80 ROM, metallic green R400 Edited by - Paul White on 5 Jul 2009 12:07:10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 Spray liberally with WD40 or similar and let sit for a bit before attempting removal. jj MTM&N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻 Membership No.3927. 240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6speedmanual Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 Paul Even worth considering filing the end of your hex socket flat so there are no lead-in chamfers at the end of the socket. That way you will get maximum possible engagement with the bolt head. There really is not much to get a purchase on and the bolts can be rusted into the roll bar boss. Hope it goes well. P BRAWNGP green SUPERLIGHT FCITW 2009 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 As directly above. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends Puddle Pet Care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul White Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share Posted July 5, 2009 Thanks for the advice; I think i'll have to line up half a day for this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Chan Posted July 5, 2009 Area Representative Share Posted July 5, 2009 If they are really a pig to shift, spray liberally with WD40/Plusgas or similar and leave for a while to soak in and then using a jack with a piece of wood to give some upward force on the socket head, you can easily undo the vertical bolts with less likelihood of rounding off Nick ----- Back in a BEC! - But trying to get into Class 1... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Paul I would heartily endorse the use of a 6 point, not 12 point, socket and turning the business end flat. The head of the bolt is only about 3mm thick. If you need any help with this I'm only in Gomshall so can't be far away from you. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Crofts Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 6 point 14mm hex & grind off the castellations When fitting the cage put these nuts back on first half way in, then fit front pick ups, easier to pull the cage about a bit with the rear end loose then tighten all round, you'll probably need to cut the front mounting nuts down as well so they do not oppose each other in the chassis rail. The nuts supplied by CC & Caged are too long. You may need to fettle the hole in the front pick ups as well. Porsche GT3 RS Orange R300 Superlight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 It can only help to soak the offending bolts in Plusgas for a couple of days too. I'm always impressed and often mightily relieved by its effectiveness. 'Have you any idea what it's like to have the wind rushing through your hair!' (Quote:Sq Cdr the Lord Flashheart) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul White Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 Thanks guys, Had no problems with all of your warnings and did the whole job in an hour and a half Have since spent 3 hours trying to get the bolt back in to the bottom shock mounting but it won't go in without cross threading! Any ideas before I set light to the car and claim on the insurance! K80 ROM, metallic green R400 Edited by - Paul White on 12 Jul 2009 11:23:47 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Crofts Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 I seem to remember I had a similar issue with rebuilding the rear end. I put the bottom bolt in first then offered up the top into the mount, putting a long screwdriver in the hole behind seat to get a rough alignment of the top shock then offered the hex nut into the top mount. You could try backing off the top mount to get some lateral play in the shock to get the bottom mount straight. Also the car although jacked on the Watts linkage the jack was removed & I had the rear on axle stands on a chassis rail so the suspension was completely free. Porsche GT3 RS Orange R300 Superlight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Flatters Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 You could probably do with a tap to clean out the thread. In the absence of a proper tap, if you have a spare bolt of the correct size, grind 3 or 4 grooves down the lenghth of the bolt (I use the cutting disc on a Dremel and basically, you are turning it into a makeshift tap) and then run that down the sticking thread, but do so by winding in a couple of turns then back one and so on. The grooves will help to gather the crud you clear out of the thread. Probably worth removing the bolt/tap a few times during the process, to clear out the cruf. Good luck *arrowright*Harry Flatters *arrowright* AKA Steve Mell - Su77on Se7ener Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul White Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 Thanks Steve, Did what you said and it worked a treat Was rather stressed at one point as I have a trackday booked at Brands tomorrow! K80 ROM, metallic green R400 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Have you got the cage on ok? Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul White Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 Hi Graham, Yep, all on - just can't get in or out of the car anymore K80 ROM, metallic green R400 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Molloy Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Started specific new thread... Edited by - Mike Molloy on 3 Aug 2009 13:05:38 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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