How many Amps in starter circuit ?

[Steve Campbell]

Quick question as re-wiring some cables to the starter solenoid.

 

How many AMPS in this circuit (edited to add....that's the ignition switch circuit..not the high current one) ? I've cut the "thin" wire from solenoid in starter circuit as I want to extend the run to go below the starter motor away from heat but not sure how to connect the new length on.

 

Looked at these bullets from Maplins ?

 

here

 

but not sure they are OK for the load ? Info says not good for 25A, 12v but OK for 12v 1.6A. I'm no sparky so this doesn't mean much to me !

 

Or better with something else ..from Maplins as I'm calling in their tonight :-)

 

Thanks

 

Steve Campbell

P889 GRR

 

Edited by - steve campbell on 29 Jun 2009 17:02:12

[Normans_Ghost]

Steve, I think it's normally 1mm 17 amp wire but I use 25amp wire (2mm)

 

To give them their full spec:

 

32/0.20mm 1mm₂ 16.5 amp

28/0.30mm 2mm₂ 25 amp

 

You need 2 male 6.3mm lucar connectors and 1 female.

 

the part numbers for Vehicle Wiring Products are:

 

1 x RM4 £1.00 per 10 (male)

1 x RF4 £ 1.00 per 10 (female)

 

The cable is £6.43 for ca 30m roll.

 

If you trace the cable back you will (should) see it go into the loom in front of the heater (or wheer the heater case would go if you have one)

 

You will need a crimping tool.

 

Part number AM1 is £1.89 and do for this job.

 

If you email me your address I can pop a few terminals and some wire in the post but haven't got a spare crimp tool. I think Halfords have them. I'll have a poodle for you. Back soon

 

 

OK, here's Halfords 3 tools. The simple one is the same as .... VWP's product at £1.89

 

let me know how long the wire needs to be and I'll make the starter to loom section but you'll still need to crimp a connector near the loom (don't cut back too close to the loom, leave room for the future)

 

^{Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here}

You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited

 

Edited by - nverona on 29 Jun 2009 18:24:56

[Johnty Lyons]

If this is a K then the beefier you make that cct the better as it suffers very badly from VD

I rewired mine with 44strand alternator cable through a 30Amp relay direct from Battery.

Bye Bye K Click 😬 😬 😬 😬

 

---

jj

N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻

Membership No.3927.

240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary

 

[Steve Campbell]

Norman,

 

Thanks for advice...had already left work and gone to the shops !

 

VD ??

 

I bought the bullet connectors as above.

 

+ the blue crimp terminals + this wire here which is rated at 30A

 

The wire goes into a "bundle" when I traced back including water T sensor and other wires etc. I''ve therefore just cut it 2 or 3 inches short of this. With the bullet connectors I'll be able to re-fit the wire into the current "protective" sleeve it has.

 

Checked with Maplins and they said didn't realy need crimper....could do it with small pliers...any advice on this ? Would have thought it will be ok.

 

I thought I had K click but when I removed the solenoid the connector that this wire attaches to had a cracked solder and was very "wiggly"..the base plate can move side to side. Planning to re-solder and re-fit the wire and fingers crossed !

 

 

 

Steve Campbell

P889 GRR

 

Edited by - Steve Campbell on 29 Jun 2009 19:28:38

 

Edited by - Steve Campbell on 29 Jun 2009 19:45:25

[Roger Ford]

Checked with Maplins and they said didn't realy need crimper....could do it with small pliers...any advice on this ? Would have thought it will be ok.

 

I wouldn't! Get the proper tool (and I don't mean the £3.50 one). Crimp terminals have a habit of falling off anyway, far more likely to do so if you've tried to crimp them with a pair of pliers.

[Normans_Ghost]

Roger, I thought about recommending the ratchet jobbie but thought that it was a bit OTT for 3 terminals. One if I'd sent the cable ready crimped.

 

I dont like bullet connectors, much prefer spades. Had too many bullets just work loose and fall out/poor connection. At least with spades they can be "tightened"

[JampJ]

It would be easier and better to make an extention lead out of Male and Female spades.

Cheers John

 

JFDI

(Just F*****g Do It)

[Steve Campbell]

Hi all, had a play with the "bullets" last night and they go together very tightly (couldn't get them apart without using small pliers to hold one of them !)

 

Point noted on the use of the proper tool, but don't think I'll be spending £20 on one as I only have 3 connectors to "squeeze" ! Might see if one of my neighbours has a set I can borrow.

 

Need to get it all back together quickly with all this good weather about ! Once I've done this I've just got to get the exhaust back on (see other thread !!)

 

Thanks again.

 

Steve Campbell

P889 GRR

[Grebby]

Steve,

Where abouts in south bucks?

 

I have a ratchet crimper and a selection of spade connectors that you can use.

 

I'm based in Langley.

 

Let me know if I can be of any help.

 

Cheers

 

Grebby

[Golf Juliet Tango]

Rachet crimp tool also available in Berkhamsted.

 

_{Democratic dissent is not disloyalty, it is a positive civic duty.}

[Mick Day]

VD = voltage drop. The thicker the wire the less the voltage drop.

 

You may only need to crimp 3 terminals at present but you'll soon find more as the years go by. If you buy the proper ratchet crimper it'll do a lifetime's service & possibly prevent a breakdown.

 

I'd echo Norm's dislike for bullet connectors as well.

 

Edited by - Mick Day on 30 Jun 2009 12:30:15

[Normans_Ghost]

Mick, there was one car at Le Mans with the click. I cut the wire back to the loom, replaced it with 25 amp and ran it behind the starter.

 

Something didn't feel right about the old piece of wire so I cut it in half.

 

Black powder fell out! The wire was burnt to a cinder. It wasn't that that amazed me but how the solinoid worked at all. It read 6v at the end (with the other end on a 13.6v terminal). The exterior sleeve showed no sign of burning.

 

^{Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here}

You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited

[Johnty Lyons]

VD 6v at the end (with the other end on a 13.6v terminal)

it's the main reason for the K click...... the thinner the wire and the more joints you have the worse it gets All those contacts in the MFRU don't help either.

 

 

---

jj

N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻

Membership No.3927.

240BHP 1900cc K Series 40th Anniversary

 

 

Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 1 Jul 2009 13:56:00

[Normans_Ghost]

Johnty, and there was I thinking it was a cooked wire

 

To be honest, On new cars there was no measurable VD between battery and solonid terminal. But with a thin wire running 3 or 4 " from an exhaust pipe it would be expected to cook nicely. The surprising thing is that the plastic doesn't melt.

 

One the early R500's had a soldered joint melt inside the solonoid. Managed to repair it with a pen type blowlamp someone had. It was that car that started me taking some proper tools to LM

 

^{Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here}

You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited

[Myles]

I'll have a poodle for you.

 

 

          🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

Alcester Racing

7s Ecosse™

^🙆🏻 🙆🏻 _🙆🏻 🙆🏻 ^🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com

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[Johnty Lyons]

It's simple in my book VD Voltage Drop is where you have a lower PD at the end of the cct. than you have at the origin. Usually caused by crap wiring , inc. multiple connections, and or wiring which is too light for the current it is being asked to carry. In a K it is made worse by that crap piece of equipment titled a MFRU which is just a fancy name for a group of interconnected relays in one housing. So minimise the connections and the number of relay contact points and maximise the size of the wiring The higher the PD at the solenoid the harder its going to shoot home and successfully close the main contacts to the motor. And yes agree Heat is a bugger I've seen a few solenoids with the solder running out of the terminals 😬 😬

 

 

Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 1 Jul 2009 14:05:25

[millsn]

Get yourself a proper crimper and you won't regret it. Mucho satisfying and deals with all those concerns you used to have when you crimped using pliers and thought "I can't believe that'll hold" primarily because it won't.