Throbin Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Anyone know how to dismantle a Caterham stering rack. I've removed the gaitors and there is a large nut at each end that appears to have some sort of "lock" on it. Does anyone know how to remove this? Thanks, Robin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 I had a go once on a rack that had been trashed in an accident. I think there is a nut hidden underneath the cover on the bottom of the rack (i.e. opposite the big-nut adjuster that sits on the top). For the life of me, I could not get the cap/cover off - I wasn't worried about trashing it either - so I wasn't being subtle. Good-luck! If you do find a way in, let-us know. I've got another rack somewhere that I'd like to pull apart and either service or trash. 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7s Ecosse™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farreaster Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 I don't know Caterham racks in particular very well but I do know steering gears, in general, well. The large nuts on on each end of the steering rack are the inner ball joints (IBJ), they are often retained by locking tab washers, by peening the IBJ housing into a slot in the rack, by loctite or similar or simple by accurate torquing. In your case what does the "lock" look like ? If you intend to remove the IBJ's (& you must if you are going to remove the rack from the housing) be very careful that you support the rack itself properly (not the housing) - fail to do this and you will end up with a bent pinion. Proberbly the best way is to put a large open ended spanner over the rack at the teeth flats and undo against this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted June 23, 2009 Area Representative Share Posted June 23, 2009 The caps that fix the ball joint on the inner end of the track rod to the rack, are normall locked in place with a peg that is peened into a hole that is drilled, half in the cap and half in the locknut. The peg can be drilled out, then the cap and locknut can be unscrewed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 I may have described it in detail on my accident rebuild. I'll have a look. No, sorry. There's a picture of the damage and a picture of the re-assembled rack but no explanation. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Edited by - nverona on 23 Jun 2009 21:46:10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverSedlacek Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 The racks have changed over the years, so it depends on which one. The one I tried had a locking pin which had to be drifted out first. It's not easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Throbin Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 The rack in question is a standard 8% rack frim the 98/99 era. I'll have a closer look at the "pin" over the weekend to see if it can be drifted out or needs to be drilled. Thanks for your comments guys. Robin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinfourth Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 I'd love to see how a rack comes to bits so i can get more lock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now