Steve Campbell Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 OK..I've got the dreaded K click thingy..had it for 2 years and always managed but now it's getting annoying (wiggling the lead to the solenoid usually works for me). I'm going to take it all apart and sort it out. One colleague showed me his (oo err) and the starter motor had been wrapped in a protective "heat blanket" type of thing about 12" square and wrapped / tied over the starter motor and solenoid. Looked neat and a good way to possible prevent future problems.... So...where cna I get this stuff from ? I tried my local motor factors and they couldn't help and Halfords don't seem to do it ? Any ideas ? Steve Campbell P889 GRR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Demon Tweeks ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 DEMON TWEEKS I have fitted one, seems to do the job but a bit expensive IMO Guy Now with MORE bhp HERE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Steve I've a few offcuts of the heat blanket, certainly enough to do a starter, drop me an e-mail if you'd like it (address in profile) Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Campbell Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 Mark YHBM Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieD Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Hi, Merlin motorsport do lots of heat shield stuff and lower price than demon tweekes Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Test the solonoid wire as well. I'm getting like a bloody recorded announcement. I have seen solonoid wires which look fine on the outside but when cut in half black powder falls out. Worse one read 6v at the starter terminal when the battery was over 13v. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R300 Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 You could use a plumbers soldering mat they are heat resistant and cost about £15 300x250mm in size 04 Blue/Orange Superlight R300 Going no where fast! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 A simple fire blanket thingy isn't that expensive is it? I'll have a poodle. Poodled and found this at 6.79 Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Edited by - nverona on 23 Jun 2009 20:23:06 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Newton Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 I got my heat sheild from Race Parts UK Ltd; very helpful guys... Ali / BRG 1400 SS on the loose! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Newton Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 ...but I've found that the heat shield only reduces the degradation of the 'K'licking...their is the wiring alterationthat I've been told solves the issue, given to me by Paul Richards; Cheers Paul. Must pull my finger out and do 'what seems to be' a simple wiring exercise to solve a PITA klick! Ali / BRG 1400 SS on the loose! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Although wrapping the starter will protect it from some of the radiant heat from the headers it will do nothing for the heat-soak from the block. Indeed wrapping the starter may act like a tea cosy & stop the heat escaping. However my starter is wrapped- more from habit than anything else. When I started to get starter problems, some 10 years ago, I went through all the various fixes. I worked out that a short path for the battery/solenoid activation wiring, plus a relay, is paramount. Secondly, as Norman has said, check the resistance of all the wiring to the starter & alternator. I have now simplified my wiring & have a spare alternator/starter loom waiting to be fitted as & when. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Campbell Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 I freely admit to being a complete numpty when it comes to electrical stuff (amongst other things !) so the wiring alteration is difficult for me ! When I get the click, I wiggle the big red wire and it then starts ! At the solenoid (the small tubey thing on the top of the starter 😬) the wire is "soldered" on but is loose, not the solder, that's solid, but feels like the overall connection (can't get my head-in close enough to really see, so was going to take the starter motor off and have a poke about !) I was thinking that if I replaced the big red wire (presume can get this from local motor factors), get someone to help resolder the connection, put it all back together with a blanket over and the wire routed underneath rather than next to the primaries then "bob would be my auntie" as they say... 😬 No ? Steve Campbell P889 GRR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 wiggling the lead to the solenoid usually works for me then simply replace the lead and get a new solenoid ....... here is my Duratec R .... C7 TOP Taffia joint AO with Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Wasp Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Steve I have exactly the same symptoms, experience and remedy!!! But I am finallly in the process of buying a new uprated starter motor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Steve, YES. See if someone near you has a (good) crimping tool, some male and female lucar connectors and some alternator feed wire (forgot the rating). Cut you (small) solonoid wire back to the join in front of the heater (bulkhead) and run the new wire from the connector towards the block then under the starter to the bulkhead. Use male/female connectors at the bulkhead. The loose soldered joint sounds like the soldered tag which the aforementioned wire with a lucar connector pushes on to. You will need to investigate this as its probably the post loose into the solonoid and needs resoldering inside. We had an R500 at Le Mans with a failed starter several years ago. When we got it off and opened it up an internal joint had broken away due to the soldered joint getting so hot from the exhaust that it allowed the joint to seperate. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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