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Starter motor choice


oilyhands

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A customer has just upgraded from an ancient 1400K SS to a warmed over 1800K SS and the original 14 year old starter is having difficulty in turning the engine over fast enough for the engine to kick, especially when hot (a little kick back I think). The battery voltage is good as is the earthing. I have recommended a replacement starter and wondered what the concensus was from the wise for a suitable one to replace his existing inadequate one.

 

Brise?..

 

Oily

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Hi Dave - I had the same problem with my 1900K and replaced the starter with the "Caterham Race Starter" which is a Bosch unit. It's probably this one but they don't call it a race starter anymore so the buyer would have to check with Caterham. It doesn't fit with the old competition 4-1 exhaust or the early SLR 4-2-1.

Shaun

 

Yellow SL *cool* #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

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Always worth trying the flylead-to-battery trick to help rule out much of the wiring, relays, switches etc. Mine still occasionally turns over slowly - the flylead trick then tells me that I just need to renew some of the wiring/connections etc. (car stored outside - so this is an expected 'consumable').

 

I did upgrade to one of the Brise starters. I've had a couple of problems over the years (sent it back twice). It developed a 'high-resistance internal connection' early on and they fixed that. Had a similar problem just short of the first anniversary and they replaced the solenoid - and tried to charge me for it! I suggested that they might like to rethink that - and we ended up agreeing that I'd just pay for shipping IIRC.

 

So - I've had a few problems with both the kit and the service. Might have been bad-luck on both. The starter is fine at the moment - so I'd vote 'neutral' for Brise.

 

          🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

Alcester Racing

7s Ecosse™

🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com


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To make it clear - I am talking about a power lead from the battery to the starter, that's in addition to a lead direct from the battery via a relay to the solenoid. I think I have the optimal circuit now and I'm hoping for years of trouble-free service 😶‍🌫️
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Dave, echo the above.

 

I had variable starting quality with the stock wiring and was considering Brise myself. Stripped the starter and it was pretty clean. The SH for the car show a new starter each year!!!!

 

I wired a relay (coil) direct from the start button and located it on the bulkhead. This allowed the power side to be run directly from the battery in a short run. I used .75 for the coil (anything should cope with it) and 3mm for the power side.

 

The click has gone and it cranks much harder than it did before. I would definately recommend trying the mod before spending on a funky starter.

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This won't help much as I don't think Brise do them but..

 

Me and the previous owner used to heave real trouble starting the car needing to have a battery booster attached and even then needing a few good cranks to get the car going. Managed to get a brise one due to a canceled order and since then the car has always started no problem even in the damp following a nights foggy camping. Best thing I've got for the cat so far!

 

Might be wiotrht calling brise as they may be able to help you. Not cheap but well well worth it!

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I had a great deal of good advice from Steve at Racemettle. went out of his way to make sure my starter was working properly, even a year after supplying a new one.

 

Highly recommended *thumbup*

 

'Have you any idea what it's like to have the wind rushing through your hair!' (Quote:Sq Cdr the Lord Flashheart)

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