spare wheel carrier removal

[Stef]

I'm new to this, only got my 1990 cross flow a week ago and just registered on blat chat so apologies if I'm asking questions about obvious stuff.

 

My car still has the spare wheel carrier on it even though I've already started leaving the spare wheel in the garage. I'm therefore thinking about cutting it off.

 

Is this common and is it as simple as it sounds, i.e. cut the tubes off, stick the plate low enough to cover the holes left at the bottom of the panel and then somehow attach the number plate light to the chassis? What to people to do about the hole thats left in the middle of the panel?

 

Also, looking to buy another set of wheels/tyres, mainly because mine are track biased yoko a048's (i think) which are decidedly borderline. I figured it would make sense to buy some cheap minilites with half decent road tyres on and take the yokos off and keep for the track. My current wheels are 14inch, kind off 6 spoke star shaped alloys that seem common on late 80's cars. Most of the minilites I see are 13inch, will that matter for the road?

 

Cheers

Steff

[Normans_Ghost]

Steff, I cut the bars off with an angle grinder. Then bought some "bullet" number plate lights and fitted the rear plate to hide the open ends (plugged the ends with rubber grommets to stop rust from the inside).

 

I'll find the link to the led number plate lights.

 

Go for 13" wheels as the tyres are a fraction of the price of larger sizes.

 

^{Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here}

You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited

[Normans_Ghost]

here you go: at the bottom of this page with the Ohio number plate

 

^{Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here}

You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited

[Nick Pargiter]

Steff

 

Cutting the carrier off is as simple as that although you need to be careful with the wires for the number plate light as these run through the tube (well they did on mine ). Some just used some rubber covers to hide the end of the tubes and attach the number plate and light to the bodywork. Others make up a mount for the number plate and light that fits into the stubs.

If you are after wheels/tires for the track I would suggest using 13" for these and keep your 14" wheels for the road, maybe with other tires. It depends how and when you want to drive the car, many use the 48's all year round. Again it all comes down to personal preference.

 

Cheers

 

Nick

[Grubbster]

I removed mine ages ago meaning to adapt it to be 'refittable' but have never bothered. Remove number plate light, pull wire back through to behind fuel tank, cut off rack with pipe cutter and fit plastic bungs from B&Q (I think), get ali light bracket from CC and rivet on to chassis tube, refit and rewire light. Take out the fixing for bolting on spare wheel and put rubber bung from Halfords in the hole (or a sticker?).

 

Sounds like you might want some A021's for the road and 48's for the track.

 

Edited by - Grubbster on 18 May 2009 20:06:33

[Stef]

Thanks both. I'll have a go at the spare wheel carrier when I get a free weekend.

 

The problem with the 048's is more that the rears are barely legal now so I would need new tyres anyway and when I looked at the prices a set of minilites with tyres with decent tread left on them it seemed to make sense to go down that route.

 

Also, I want to be happy driving the car in any conditions so will probably go for a traditional treaded tyre.

 

Cheers

Steffan

[k.russell]

if you are leaving the stubs, cut it off with a tube cutter like the ones used by plummers, gives square edge.

 

Kevin R

 

black(but sometimes orange)-ali HPC

here

[J7HPC]

Did mine about two weeks ago and rewired the rear numberplate light to use the hole left from the spare wheel fastening nut in the middle....

 

I used a hacksaw with a blade that could be set at 45 degrees so i didn't scratch the back of the car while cutting.

 

Looks much happier now without it....

 

Rupert

[Gordon C]

Something i keep meaning to do myself as well.

 

I found this a while back which may interest you.

 

_________________________

Gordon.

 

Everything in our favour is dead against us.

[Drumster]

That's the option I went for . Mainly because we go touring each year and I prefer the comfort of having a spare (don't think I be able to get Yoko 21s in 70 profile abroad too easily) and being able to take a luggage rack.

 

Chris Alston

C7CAT 1800 Supersprint

R248 ....and then I jumped in

[Wrightpayne]

B&Q do some caps that will fit - I think they are described as chair leg feet or end caps.

 

 

I fitted the number plate light over the hole - you can get a threaded brass ferrule (used on mains standard lamps) which has a hole through the middle to bolt the lamp on and pass the wires through into the lamp. Then velcro the numberplate on.

 

 

Ian

[DaveMorris]

You could try George Polley Motorsport for a set of 4 Black/Polished Ali 13" rims fitted with Yoko 21r's in 70 profile.

A nice all round tyre/rim combination and you might find the price appealing aswell.

 

[John Howe]

I wouldn't use an angle grinder (sorry Norm...) if you intend to have it as refittable option but, as already suggested, use the plumber's pipe cutter. Takes but a few minutes and leaves a clean and square cut.

 

JH

Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine

[Stef]

This is probably a really daft question but I've never actually used a rivet gun before.

 

So am I actually putting a pop rivet through the chassis tube (the front/fuel tank side?).

 

What is involved with doing that? is it easy? and am I not weakening a part of the chassis?

 

Sorry for being!

 

Steff

 

[Grubbster]

The rear light mount is rivetted onto the chassis rail so yes you do need to drill it but it won't make any real difference to the strength. It you don't have a rivet gun then just use a couple of short self tapping screws instead.