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Removing the propshaft


Miraz

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Don't think it's possible because of the size of the end plate.

 

Might be over this Saturday. Have suggested such to the budget holder, who is not against the idea but everything is subject to our moving house (date still not known).

 

Worcs L7 club joint AO

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Doubt very much that it can be done, at least not in a standard non SV seven. To swing the diff up, you've got to remove both drive shafts and the lower diff bolts. You might as well remove the top one as well.

 

In a standard size car, it's much easier to remove the DD tube then the diff/propshaft assembly then separate.

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  • 1 month later...

there wasn't room on mind when i tried it. so its diff out. On the plus side you can remove the driveshaft/hub/ears/disk as one assembly, the brakes will have to be tied up and dangle (assuming you don't want to undo the brake lines). Then i guess the dedion can stay there and the diff will drop out. catch the diff on a jack and its fairly easy with two people.

 

what wrong with your propshaft then?

 

HOOPY CYCLE WINGS *thumbup* CUCUMBER *thumbdown*

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Actually the gearbox has been a little temperamental recently, so I've only got a little time left to break it before it's out of warranty.

 

10 months old, 11,500 miles

 

Warranty replacements to date:-

Front shocks

radiator fan (twice)

radiator

steering rack

radiator fan switch (3 times)

air temperature sensor

coolant temperature sensor

Throttle assembly for plenum

indicator switch (twice)

headlamp switch

cooling fan relay

speedometer

dry sump pump

headlamp shell

driveshafts (both)

Rear wheel bearings

Clutch (including cover)

Rear Fog light lens (4 times)

sidescreens (twice)

weather gear (twice)

tonneau cover (twice)

oil pressure sender

bonnet

nosecone

 

 

 

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I managed to remove my propshaft in 10 minutes without any hassle at all. Mind you that this is an SV, which may have different dimensions. But it is definetly worth a try.

 

When I had fitted my Zetec engine with gearbox (Sierra) and all into my SV, I realised that the factory had sent me the wrong shaft since it was 15 cm too short. I had attached the shaft to the diff before I fitted the latter to the car. I thought that I had a major disassembly work ahead of me to get the shaft out, but no.

 

When I got the new shaft, I removed the high tension screws that fastens the prop shaft to the diff's plate and removed the shaft by pulling it upward between the tubing that forms the tunnel. The little aluminium plate that is to be riveted to the top rear end of the tunnel was (and still is) not in place.

 

I had to move some of the brake/fuel tubing a few mm to get it out, but it was no problem at all.

Before I inserted the new, longer, propshaft, I removed the screws from the engine mounts and pulled the entire engine 5-6 cm forward. This let me slip the shaft in the same way and insert it into the gearbox. Total replacement time: 30 minutes.

 

/Magnus F.

 

 

Edited by - magnusfeuer on 23 Aug 2002 23:01:55

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Hoopy,

Thanks for the advice - particularly the bit about sunshine & beers. Job done today - with two helpers( 😳) aged 7 & 5, I resorted to supporting the diff with my engine crane. It all slipped out smoothly - glad to see that the back end was in reasonably good nick considering that I put it together 10 years ago! Gearbox next - any one have any ideas?

 

Gareth

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The gearbox should survive until the winter- doesn't like shifting from 3rd to 2nd. Not too bad on the road, but when hot on a trackday is almost impossible. Decision is whether to rebuild - Phil Stewart or BGH - or ditch it for one of the semi-helical Quaife gearsets. Any thoughts?

 

I can hear that cold beer calling me..... 😬

 

Gareth

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