chrisddl Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 I'm in the process of changing out the coolant in my K series, and having opened the heater loop via the heater valve, disconnected the bottom hose at the radiator and removed the small vent plug at the top of the rad, I get out about 2.7 litres of coolant. Not much I think! Questions: Is that the full amount that fits in the system ? Is there more in the engine? Is there a drain plug on the engine, if yes, where? Should it be drained off when the engine is hot and the thermostat open? if yes, I'll put it back in and warm it up. How do you drain it off? Many thanks for taking time to read this and helping out. ChrisL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich N Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 There will indeed be a load stuck behind the thermostat. You could probably remove that if you wanted to be sure. I did that, then ran some water through it and then topped up with coolant (I was changing type of coolant and didn't want to mix). Answers to your questions: No - I think mine probably took about 5L ish.. Yes No No - I never have, never been sure how good an idea it is.. See above --=[Oxford7s.net]=-- Edited by - Rich N on 4 May 2009 08:40:53 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Easiest way to drain the engine is to disconect the return heater/bypass hose at the heater end and lower this below the bottom of the engine. Be ready with your bowl! This will remove 95% of the coolant in the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisddl Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 Thanks guys for your help, I'll have a go at both of those methods ChrisL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich N Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Try his first, sounds easier 😬 --=[Oxford7s.net]=-- [subscribe: List-subscribe@Oxford7s.net] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisddl Posted May 5, 2009 Author Share Posted May 5, 2009 The disconnecting of the heater hose did the trick and in the end, and it took almost all the 5 ltrs of coolant to refill. Thanks for your help Chrisl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c7jhc Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Quoting Englishmaninwales: Easiest way to drain the engine is to disconect the return heater/bypass hose at the heater end and lower this below the bottom of the engine. Be ready with your bowl! This will remove 95% of the coolant in the engine. Doing some research before fitting a set of SFS Silicon hoses to my K series in a couple of weeks. For draining the coolant does the attached refer to the upper (inlet) or lower (outlet) heater hose? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 If you are replacing the hoses ... you'll be taking them all off !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 The suggestion above is to disconnect the top of the long hose (to the thermostat) at the heater valve and lower the free end to the floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c7jhc Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookie Monster Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 And best of luck refilling & avoiding air locks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Slowly. Easier after cooling system mod (see LF Sept 2012) with hole in top of thermostat plate and bleed tee in highest heater hose I have a pdf scan of LF article if anyone needs it. Send me a BlatMail with your e.mail address typed in the body of the message. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c7jhc Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Thanks for the good wishes Does anyone know the size of the fibre washer on the bleed screw of a standard K series radiator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I think it is 10mm bore. I changed to a dowty seal in place of the crumbly fibre washer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Steve ... pdfs just sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c7jhc Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Just looking at the list of parts posted back in 2012 (below) for the K series cooling system modification. I purchased my set of silicone hoses from SFS - is there a recommended supplier of the parts needed for the modification? I used 1.3m of 15mm bore heater hose - including replacing the bit from the heater valve to the joiner (now the new tee) and 750mm of 8mm bore hose to replaced the original bypass hose. A 16mm brass tee and a 32mm x150mm beaded aluminium joiner - both from CBS. Fitted 5 new Mikalor hose clamps (40-43mm) from Pirtek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 You seem to answer your own question too !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c7jhc Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 SFS then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 And CBS and Pirtek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c7jhc Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c7jhc Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Quoting c7jhc: Just looking at the list of parts posted back in 2012 (below) for the K series cooling system modification. I purchased my set of silicone hoses from SFS - is there a recommended supplier of the parts needed for the modification? I used 1.3m of 15mm bore heater hose - including replacing the bit from the heater valve to the joiner (now the new tee) and 750mm of 8mm bore hose to replaced the original bypass hose. A 16mm brass tee and a 32mm x150mm beaded aluminium joiner - both from CBS. Fitted 5 new Mikalor hose clamps (40-43mm) from Pirtek. Checked on the SFS site and a few other places and can't locate any 15mm bore Silicone heater hose. Would 16mm bore work? SM25T mentioned using 1.3m of hose -what is the longest section used as SFS only sell 1m lengths? Thanks again for any assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted March 4, 2014 Member Share Posted March 4, 2014 16mm (nominal) hose from Classic Silicone Hoses was fine on my fittings. Whats the longest run you need taking the bleed piece into account? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 16mm bore is fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c7jhc Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Thanks for the feeback - I have sourced a 2m length of 16mm Silicone hose and ordered the other parts on the suggested list. As I'm replacing all the hoses and fluid decided to replace the thermostat with an 82 degrees version at the same time - would I be correct that they now come with the hole "preinstalled"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Nope. Check which will be the top when in situ. Only fits one way. Then drill your hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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