CageyH Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Which tape do you fellow cyclists use? I am being plagued by punctures from inside the wheel (in different spots) and there is no debris. The original tape was plastic, and a hole developed in it. I tried a velox tape, but it was not sticky and moved. Any other suggestions? Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 I have had similar problems and discovered hawthorn/blackthorn thorns going through the tyre . I've been recommended a tube of gunk which you put into the inner tube via the valve and is slops around inside the tube, sealing holes pretty much as they happen. It does add a little extra weight but I'm told it will save me a lot of messing about mending punctures. 'Have you any idea what it's like to have the wind rushing through your hair!' (Quote:Sq Cdr the Lord Flashheart) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jorgen Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 From memory my bike has these michelins, has worked well for a number of years now. I seem to recall that michelin also did a tape version cant find it now though. http://store.icyclesusa.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=icycles&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=58559596&Count2=975700020&ProductID=199&Target=products.asp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Silly question - assume none of the spoke ends are protruding through the head of the nuts ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 Nope. None of them are protruding through. No rough bits on the inside. Nothing sticking through the tyres. I think I have fixed it with my "non-sticky" sticky velox tape with a covering of insulation tape to stop in moving.. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Michelin HP plastic rim tapes mn your dont trap your fingers popping them on ! White tyre solution is 'Stans' worked really well when new but goes off to the pint where it no longer seals at all after about 7 months - also it will not seal in sub zero temperatues despite what it says on the bottle! Too young to be old ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Also get some tyres witha Kevlar puncture proof layer in them such as "Specialized Gator Skins" great fast rolling tyre! Assuming you have a road bike, keep the tyre pressures up at 120psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Tear Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 It helps to replace the tape regularly (once you start getting problems, you will probably continue getting them). There will often be flaws in the tape after a while, which are difficult to see. I have used all the different types of rim tape. They are probably roughly the same. As you have found out, insulation tape over the top helps it to stop sliding around and exposing spoke holes. Stans etc is only for tubeless and really only for MTB at moment, and whilst fantastic, is hard work to set up (I use it for racing but not for training). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 I think I've only once had a flat due to rim-tape - and this was on a tube that had sat in the tyre for so long you could see the dimples all around the tube. ISTR that happened on some OEM rims from my first road bike. That incident aside, I've not had any problems - or even given tape a real thought to rim-tape - I've built all of my wheels with Mavic Open Pros and not had any problems. I can also heartily-recommend Conti GP 4-Seasons (or GP4000(s) if you are less worried about punctures). I've only punctured twice in 7ish years and - ooh 30k+ of riding? Once was on a worn-tire when I hit some really, really vicious glass. The other time could have happened to anyone and wasn't something the tyre could help with - basically fell into an unseen sharp-edged pothole at around 20mph at night. Good-night tube - snake-bite. GP4-seasons are 235g (according to my decent scales tonight) for 700x23c - that's light for the protection and performance. 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7s Ecosse™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 24, 2009 Author Share Posted April 24, 2009 *arrowup*I have conti GP4 seasons, and my problems were caused by falling into a large pothole in the dark..... Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Village Idiot Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Tubular tyres - handle better, ride nicer won't puncture from the rim by design (oh yes very expensive and a bugger to mend when they puncture from the outside 😔) Dicks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 When downhilling, I am proud to say that despite the number of rock gardens, drops, jumps, crashes, woods, trees and north shore, I didn't once get a puncture 😬 Wanna know the secret? Very expensive DH inner tubes, with Michelin DH24 2.4" on the front and a IRC Kujo 3.0" on the rear - bullet proof. The tubes were thicker than the tyres... 😬 😬 😬 Edited to add, I built my wheels, and used electrical tape - 4 layers of it. John _________________________ Bugsy: '82 2cv6 (Back on the road!!! 😬) Talloulah: '08 1.6K Classic (Grubby ) Edited by - myothercarsa2cv on 24 Apr 2009 11:15:00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 24, 2009 Author Share Posted April 24, 2009 That will be dead handy on my Carbon framed road bike for the commute 😳 Electrical tape does not like 120 psi. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Village Idiot Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 All joking aside I am suprised Cagey that if you have forked out on a carbon frame etc that you don't go the tubular route being a bit of a 7/engineering geek. If I ever did some serious cycling again there would be no question about what wheels/tyres to run. There are certain moments that you have with machinery that you never forget for instance :- The very first time I drove a 7 (at Caterham) and marvelling at the way the car steered. The very first time that I rode a bike with silk tubs with latex tubes on (they were Clements) and the way the bike turned and interacted with the road. That week I went out and blew a load of money on wheels/tubs to "upgrade". I know normal bike tyres have come a long long way but surely by design they in the end can not compete with a tubular tyre on ultimate cornering/feel/ride Dicks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Be sure that your tyre itself (especially if it has kevlar reinforcement) has no protruberances. Once punctured they have a nasty habit of leaving a lovely little invisible piece of kevlar sticking out ready for just a few miles after you've replaced the inner tube. You'll only find out by running your finger (gently) round the inside of the tube itself - take care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Village Idiot Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 And that kevlar to stop punctures adds weight and destroys the performance of the tyre 😔 Just like 7's, tyres on a true lightweight bike are crucial, a back wheel tub when racing will last one crit, two short road races or one long road race and about thirty time trials . It's expensive but........ BTW many years ago I was part of a baulk buy of used tubs from the tour, they had been ridden on for one stage and then pulled off the wheel, they made for very cheap training tyres, being in France could Cagey find a source for these 🤔 Dicks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 I recall seeing a programme on tyres where some old guy kept special tyres downstairs in the dark until they had reached a proper age and then, and only then, they were (some of them) ready for use on The Tour. Couldn't figure out if it was phooey or if there was really something in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alicat Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Punctures, what are they 🤔 I run UST system, which as previously posted are a pain in the 🙆🏻 to fix. Easily solved run UST tubeless with some 'Stans No Tubes' sealant and hey presto 18 months with no punctures . Plenty have thorns have penetrated the tyre as you can see where they have self sealed. Watch the video here Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Another vote for tubeless. I run UST on one bike and Stans Rim Strips on the other, both with No Tubes sealant. Never looked back . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Cagey, I think some 3" tyres might foul the stays... Back to the drawing board. 120psi?! I ran 18... Such massive worlds apart. Could never ride on the road, tarmac doesn't budge as much as trees. Which, admittedly, don't budge much either... John _________________________ Bugsy: '82 2cv6 (Back on the road!!! 😬) Talloulah: '08 1.6K Classic (Grubby ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted April 25, 2009 Author Share Posted April 25, 2009 I need to be able to fix a puncture on the way in, or home from work, or when on a ride further away! Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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