Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Wobbly Gauges


Geoff Johnson

Recommended Posts

About 6 months ago my fuel gauge started to wobble. It's ok when it is above 3/4 full, but after that any hard acceleration or bumps make the needle oscillate wildly, which is a pain when it's early on a Sunday morning, your wallet is at home & you are wondering if you have to return or can do another 20 mile loop.

Now my temperature gauge started to do the same thing, under hard acceleration it changes from its' normal just about to overheat to showing about 40 degrees. I have checked the water in the rad, just in case I was accelerating so hard that the coolant was forced away from the thermostat (I know I am probably dreaming) but that's fine.

 

The query is, am I likely to have one problem ie earthing or voltage drop, or do the coils or springs in the gauges tend to break down?

 

Is there a quick fix, or does anybody have any good idea's?

 

 

Geoff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's possibly the sender in the tank. These can lose their damping causing it to bounce up and down. I'm not sure if it's a mechanical or electrical failing but I've had this problem before. Replacing it is easy enough. The sight of that rheostat sitting in the petrol tank always makes me nervous though!

 

Alex

 

Edited by - Alex Wong on 4 Sep 2000 14:41:09

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it were just the fuel gauge I would say check the sender in the tank, try removing the sender (float and all) and putting it back perhaps in a different position. You can often turn the unit in the in the tank by using the location screws. The fuel slosh may be putting pressure on the resistor in the sender unit.

 

Because you now have two doing the same thing.....check the wiring connectors are all clicked home, put your hand behind the dash and move the wires around looking at the instruments.

 

If it carries on, get some spare instruments and plug them in, just dangling under the dash is ok. If they do the same, connect them directly to the relevant senders and see what happens. Work back to the source.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Most electrical problems are the earth points, on my 91 there are two chassis earthstraps connected to the top left bellhousing bolt, one under the dashboard left side and one at the left rear of the car inside the wheel arch. Taking all these apart, bit of emery cloth and put back together will solve all manner of gremlins.

 

I've also had a not dissimilar problem when my alternator died. The rectifiers got toasted and would charge (red charge light went out) between 2.5 - 3.5k revs or anytime under fierce acceleration. Failure of either would reset my instrumentation. Another thing to check is the alternator cabling which gets toasted if it's under the headers as normal. Give them a wiggle to make sure they're ok.

 

Cheers, Simon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...