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Bleeding Hell.


Gingerbread Man

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I probably wouldn't bother without a thermostat as you'll just have to drain it and refill again.. although racers run without the stat as they're always at 101% 😬

 

Bleeding the K-series is tricky because of its design. I tried lots of things and hopefully you'll try lots of things and find some that work. In the end I drilled a small hole in the skirt like I said.. but only a small one or you'll take weeks to get up to temperature in cold ambient conditions.

 

If you avoid the hole, the most important advice I had was to raise the front of the car, give the J hose from the stat some vigerous squeezing action, and fill from the highest point (and fit a bleed 't' if you can to help with this).

 

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Edited by - Rich N on 3 Apr 2009 20:27:39

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I did have a bleed tee until recently when I removed the heater and with it the tee.

 

I'm doing more reading and so far I have.

 

A: Remove stat and try to see if it all circulates well without the stat in.

 

B: Drill a small hole in the stat and also try again, maybe this is the key?

 

C: I've read that there can be an air lock in the head. Remove the hose joining the header tank and the plenum and stick an Allen key into plenum. See if water trickles out? Done this. Water comes out fine

 

D: Could I have a blockage somewhere? Put a new hose from water rail to stat hosing. I had the J and S hoses at bottom out, poured water down. Also has top hose from rad to water rail out. That's clear too. Poured water in top of rad and came out bottom - also clear. That basicly leaves the engine side? Can a dodgy header tank cap have any influence on my problems? Think I'm grasping straws here!

 

E: Water pump not working? Simple way to check?? I'm starting to lean against this. PITA.

 

F: Fan still not coming on but the rads not very hot. Hoping the fan switch is good. Replaced not too long ago. Fan works but as I say, rads not hot so I don't think it'll come on anyway.

 

Edited by - Gingerbread Man on 3 Apr 2009 22:15:23

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