Rich N Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Me again.. Finished a load of other maintenance things tonight, went for a drive and noticed the fuel tank is now leaking! I could smell petrol for the last 2 days while I was working on the front.. Took the boot cover out and it seems to be seeping out somewhere on the drivers side end of the tank, almost certainly at the point where the support bracket meets the tank.. the foam strip has come away and I expect it's been rubbing. I see a new tank is pricey.. do I have any options for repair? I found somebody who had used 'that' metal putty.. and somebody used POR-15 stuff.. but I guess I'm beyond that.. Any wise words would be well received.. ...and, can I get the tank out without removing the FIA bar? I assume I just let the clamp off and it comes out, after I undo the pipe connectors... --=[Oxford7s.net]=-- Edited by - Rich N on 26 Mar 2009 20:18:45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 I used the Frost fuel tank repair kit on an Austin 7 to good effect. Only dead fish go with the flow....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiddy1 Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 The two part putty available from most garages is pretty good, you do not even have to drain teh tank (but it helps) I did an emergency repair with some and it was still fine about 6 years later! Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich N Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 I'm "feeling the love" for a large patch of 2 part epoxy from inside the tank. Thanks for the pointers, I may call on the local expertise of 'SuperSoper' once again, but I'll get the tank out and rinse it tonight anyway. Rich --=[Oxford7s.net]=-- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickie Normuss Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Wash it in the shower, that'll please SWMBO 😬 If you need any help just shout VX HPC - Loud and proud here Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambo Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 WELD IT 😬 😬 *tongue* Sorry not helpful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich N Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 Thanks for the offer Gambo - I'm led to believe it takes a 'SPECIAL kind'of welder to accept this job... I'll bring it right round for you ....and I'll wait up the road --=[Oxford7s.net]=-- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Rich, is it steel or ali? How big is the hole? Are we talking pinhole or bigger. If a pin hole then liquid metal stuff is OK. However I would remove the tank, clean the area thoroughly and apply the "glue" in a warm room and leave it on a raditor whilst it cures. Ensure you have the corners of the frame and the straps well lagged with foam when you refit the tank. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweeky Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Edited by - tweeky on 23 Mar 2009 12:16:12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSL Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I successfully repaired a pin hole in the fuel tank with the two part metal putty, just lowered the fuel level below the hole, then sanded round the area & smudged the expoxy into the hole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackbirdman Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Often this is caused by the internal baffel moving and the spot welds cracking causing a small leak. I fixed 2 of these with the 2 part putty and it lasted for years (until I replaced the tank). Do it from the outside, no need to empty the tank, just get the level below the leak if you can. I even did one repair on a track day with the leak still leaking 😬 Matt Life begins at 10,000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich N Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 Well, I've removed the tank from the car, drained the remaining 5L and rinsed a few times. I've left it with some warm water and detergent overnight. It'll be cold by now though I can see the split is along the seam (in a couple of places.. ) where the side and the base meet has what should be an L shape bent from the side panel, welded to the base of the tank but the L shape is not at a great angle against the base. I'm probably going to have to putty the outside and maybe try some POR-15 on the inside. Or maybe just putty the outside along the seam. And the other side for good measure 😬 --=[Oxford7s.net]=-- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickie Normuss Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Would it not be better to get our friend to have it welded? VX HPC - Loud and proud here Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich N Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 ^ ..it's wierd really.. several places are very very strongly against welding tanks that have been used, and some people seem to think nothing of it. I know nothing about welding, but I'm going to 'go to town'on the metal putty over several small applications. It's nice and clean now anyway.. having no garage to work in, and needing to remove it from the car to see the damage, I had to clean it up so SWMBO doesn't notice and it doesn't flavour the house 😬 --=[Oxford7s.net]=-- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickrick Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 This guy will make you a new tank for, in my opinion, a very reasonable price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich N Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 Thanks to all those who offered advice. I applied a couple of layers of 2 part epoxy 'metal putty' and allowed it all to dry for 24hrs. Tank went back on the car last night, and tonight I hooked it up, filled it with fresh fuel and went for a drive. All looking dry. Interestingly, the tank had no 'sludge' or anything truly nasty in it, but I did find a couple of bits of left over splatter from when it was welded floating about. Plus the pump's attached filter had some metal filings, weld bits, and wierd 'black rubbery bits of sh*t' on it.. all nicely cleaned up. I've actually got half a can of the old fuel left, because I didn't fancy putting all the bits of crap I could see back into the tank! Cheers again - particularly to Brian who helped me source some putty at 3 hours notice, who is now owed several beers and some computer help 😬 --=[Oxford7s.net]=-- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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